kentphil1

This could be a place to start from - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/02391

We're getting close now -

R32 front and neuspeed 28mm rear, but remember, his was a roadcar that was used on track, he did not put his car on any form of diet.

Group1rs had one of the best handling octavia track day cars at that time, this thread might give you some food for thought -

If you've slimmed out the excess weight in the car, the Whiteline should work ok, but it if not a Neuspeed 28mm rear bar may be in your future. Still really comes down to if you are a "stand on the brakes and chuck it in" type of driver, or a "brake to bleed speed and feed it in" driver. Basically, and oversimplifying things, the thicker the rear bar when used with an R32 bar, the more rotation from the rear you will get,

If you put a 23mm front roll bar on without any rear anti roll bar for a track day, you may as well pick your spot that you want to sit behind the barrier on track now, as it will be understeer central. You would need at least a whiteline rear bar roll bar if not something more, it really depends on your driving style on track. Just out of interest, have you upgraded the brakes at all yet?.

In my case I rang first, mentioned my local main agent was closed so could they help in any way (which they already knew) and the guy sorted me a click and collect. They did make it clear that when the dealer re-opens, then it was back to trade only. Hope it helps.

My local TPS under normal conditions will not deal with me, but since lockdown and the closing of the local retail dealer for the near future, they do deal with me but on a retail basis. Might be worth a try to see if they will do a similar arrangement?.

Your main part numbers are correct, the last letter is the revision code, and the numbers you posted are newer than my ones that I purchased about 18 months ago. My ones were 06A906283E for the N75 and 06A145710N for the recirc valve I would just double check with your lacal main agent that the revision is correct and go for it with the new numbers. Hope it helps.

Are those codes old stored codes, or have you cleared them down and they have returned?. If they are old, I would clear them and see what retutns. Initially I would be turning my attention to the vehicle's battery status for faults.

^^ i'm with Ken on this one, I would be inclined to look for broken wires in the corrogated boot where it passes into the main bodyshell up by the tailgate hinges. Do a continuity check, as the witing could look intact on the outside insulation, but the internal strands may have broken and have been un-noticed.

The part numbers are - 1U0867260C - side of trim clips 1U0867260D - base of trim clips They are about a fiver each from the dealer, if you can't find a pattern part with a part number search

Is there a possibility the file allocation table has become corrupted if you are using a memory card at all?. If you are using a card, did you format it externally, or with the onboard phone procedure?.

Correct, when you swipe down from the top of the home screen, at the bottom of the list of items displayed, it should say android system. You tap on the item that says charging by usb, then from the list that comes up, you select file transfer. The phone drive information and data should then be visible. Pictures taken on the phone should be found in the DCIM folder, then Camera subfolder. Hope it helps.

Does your car have aftermarket door speakers fitted?. If so, some people cut the plastic backing to let the speaker sit right, and this in turn is a point of water entry. Also, if the sill drains are blocked, the the A post can fill with water and spill into the cabin area.

This might help - https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/body/body_work/trim_noise_insulation/dash_panel/removing_and_installing_the_dash_panel_08.98_?/

The air con drain is almost impossible to get to easily from above, it is under a small pre pressed out flap in the heat shielding that covers the bulkhead in the engine bay. If accessed from underneath you can see it reasonably easily near the centre of the car. It is not so much a pipe, but more of a bung that has its end cut to form a flap. if it is blocked, a short length of stiff wire (about 2 inches or so is ok, any longer will get close to the internals of the a/c system in the air box) moved around in the flap opening will clear it. If it has got some water in there, stand to one side, as it comes out at a bit a rate once the flap is free to move - ask me how i know this.

You could have a look through this thread. Whilst Gee is no longer on this forum, there is still some good info in there. Hope it helps.

The fuel pump relay is located in the relay panel that is accessed from the drivers footwell. Basically, if you put your head down by the pedals and look up after removing the felt trim panel there, you should see a panel with several relays on. Pump relay is marked 409 I have seen these relays fail without producing an error code, as they are really a high current switch to arm the pump. I only suggested temporarily bypassing the relay to try to avoid the expense of replacement items that you are unsure are the culprit. A bypass would run the pump all the time, but if the car starts and runs, then you know the relay is suspect, and you can remove the bypass and order a new relay. If it makes no noticeable difference, then the relay is not your problem. As in all things, if you think you are out of your comfort zone with this, it may be time to call in a local specialist/auto electrician.

I just had a thought just now, do you have a spare fuel pump relay that you can try at all?. If not, you could temporarily by pass the relay just to test if it is that or not.

The 1602 code is there because the battery leads were removed to change the battery. You can clear that and it should not come back. Have you checked all your fuses are intact?, in both the cabin fuse box, and the battery fuse box?. It sounds like either the car immobiliser is trying to cut the car dead or your fuel pump is not fully priming. Are you trying to start the car without using any throttle input?, if so, what happens if you use about 1/3 throttle?, does it rev and stay running or just die?

It shouldn't, but if you have loom damage, it may be creating a short/noisy signal that is making the ECU move to a richer airflow mode. As it only takes 2 minutes to check the plug, it's a good place to start, especially as you already are recording error codes. I take it that the battery has sufficient voltage?, as a failing battery will cause systems to selectively shut down and protect the ability for the car to try to run. I notice you say you had other codes that you thought were unrelated, what were they?, as they may not be as unrelated as you think.

P1200 primarily relates to the N249 boost control solenoid, with a secondary check of the diverter valve, but they are separate components that need checking. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17608/P1200/004608 Split r valves dont play well on vag stuff, but if it has been on for 5 years, that should not be the issue stopping it starting provided the valve has been serviced appropriately. I would check your wiring connector to the n249 for damage or corrosion on the terminals, as a start, then try a substitute known good valve and go from there. Hope it helps

If you have only lost about 2 pints, there should be a fair amount of rad weld still present in the system. The reason that you need to be careful of over dosing the system, is that it can cause issues like gumming up the thermostat, if the stat itself is older and the internal plating is not like it was when new. Also, too much could cause rad core blockages if your main rad is getting near its pension age. That being said, it isn't a big issue, but do you really want to pull parts of the coolant system apart in this weather if you don't really need to?. If you want to try another dose, I would only use half a can, but make sure you run the car up to temp with the climate set to max hot, preferably in econ mode if you have it rather than auto. It may fume/steam a bit through the vents, but as I said earlier, the sealant has to get to, and through the hole to set about sealing it. Once you run the car up to temp (15 or so minutes should do it) let the system cool naturally, and hopefully you'll be ok. If It still fumes with steam badly after 2 -3 days (it could take that long to seal, depends how bad your heater rad is), then you have a badly split rad and changing or leaving it by-passed are you only options. Here is a vid from Holts to try to "fill in the gaps" for you. Hope it works for you. Just bear in mind this wont hold for 10 years, it is only a short term solution really.

Sorry, are we talking about the same car here?, as am a bit confused with the 2 different member names. The reason I asked about the coolant loss was to try to ascertain roughly how much radweld may still be in the system, and as such, if there was enough left to do it's job, without a second helping being necessary.