kentphil1

I would double check the gearbox oil level was definately done, as that set of symptoms you listed there tends to suggest a first motion shaft bearing, which could either be failing or out of oil because the level is low.

Best way to do it is to paint a line of tippex across the strap and lock mech before you remove it, to give you a fairly accurate place to refit it. Once you dismantle it without marking it's position, then mac11irl is bang on with his post a couple up.

Does the noise increase in volume on power, or when you've been coasting for a second or two in either of the affected gears?, if so, which? Have to say It does sound like box, but double check all your gear linkage rubber mounts are intact and not transfering the noise up the linkage (very slim cance of it being this but you never know.) Is the gearbox oil level correct?.

Shiney new bits..................................nice. Any news on the boost cut issue, or is that ongoing Rob?. Christ, that 5 years went by quick.

Using Copper grease on them will only really render a temporary cure as it will actually cause the bar to wear the bush quicker, better to use a lithium based grease. The creaking is normally caused by the plastic sleeve being clamped by the bush, but being allowed to move on the rollbar itself. The cure in that stuation is to break off the sleeve and fit a smaller roll bar bush, hence my questions on roll bar size and what actual model of octavia you have as each are different.

Which model octavia do you own?, when you replaced the roll bars, did they have plastic sleeves on or not?, also what diameter bushes did you fit to the clamps?.

This should fill in the gaps for the bumper assuming you have a hatchback - Summary of components of rear bumper 1 - Cross member On vehicles with trailer coupling, replaced with trailer coupling frame. Removing: – Remove bumper (Pos. 6). – Unscrew nut (Pos. 2) and remove cross member. Installation is carried out in the reverse order. 2 - Nut, 20 Nm 3 - Cover strip below tail light 4 - 1 Nm 5 - Cover strip q Pressed on into the bumper clips (Pos. 6). 6 - Bumpers Removing: – Open tailgate. – Detach cover strip (Pos.). – Unscrew screws (Pos. 4), slide cover strip below the tail light (Pos. 3) in the direction of the centre of the vehicle and remove. – Disconnect bumper strip (Pos. 8). – Remove side trim panel in luggage compartment and unscrew screws (Pos. 10). – Pull out bumper to the rear. Note Before removing the bumper it is necessary to disconnect plug of park sensors (if present). The installation occurs in reverse order. 7 - Rear spoiler q Pressed on into the bumper clips (Pos. 6). q Slightly pull off the luggage compartment trim panel for unscrewing. q For vehicles 08.00 ► integrated in the bumper. 8 - Bumper strip q Pressed on into the bumper clips (Pos. 6). 9 - 1 Nm 10 - 8 Nm q Accessible via the luggage compartment. q Slightly pull off the luggage compartment trim panel for unscrewing

Use a 1/4 inch wobble bar extension if you have one, it makes the job so much easier. especially if all the sai and associated pipework is still there.

Also check the plastic pipe housing that the temp sender is mounted in as they are known to leak in time. Having said that, a litre over 2 days is a fair old leak, and should as has been said above, be fairly visible. I take it you have not got any large amounts of white smoke when the engine is warm?. My money would also be on the water pump, but you need to do your checks first. Where does the puddle form in relation to the centre line of the car?, to the drivers or passenger side?. Is the gearbox wet at the bottom with fluid?.

Hi, welcome to Briskoda, You would probably get more coverage if you get a mod to move this to the mk2 section, as this is the mk1. Having said that, when you say you renewed the temp sensor, do you mean the thermal switch in the radiator hose outlet, or the gauge temp sensor on the engine?.

Some very wierd readings there, did you see them do the alignment, did they calibrate the camera/laser units beforehand? When you did the springs, were the top mounts renewed at the same time, and were the struts removed from the hubs?, if so are they definately reseated correctly ? Are there any signs of kerbing on the rear wheels at all?

Was this on replacement oem springs or lowering springs?

If your key is non remote type, this might help you, I presume your car may be pre year 2000?.

Flouro hose is better than silicone hose as the vapour in the hose is rich in quite corrosive hydrocarbons as well as the oil/water that the catch can filters out. It is this that rots the standard breather hoses eventually, Silicone resists this, Fluoro is that much better at it, and resists temerature better. Hope it helps

Do you have sufficient room to fit a rivnut insert rather than a helicoil?. it will not be as robust as a coil insert, but may be an easier option to fit if you are not really familiar with helicoil procedures

Those are revision D coils, the part number on both is 06A 905 115 D, it is the letter on the end that denotes how recent the coil is. I agree the coils look different, but they appear to be OEM, so it could be worth a call to your local main agent to see if your car has had the recall carried out yet. This is the thread with the most info for you on the subject - In answer to your other question, no cable ties are not the norm, but are we talking large bore hoses or small bore vacuum lines on your car?.

Is the relay you are refering to the rectangular fan control unit and bolted on below the battery?, as I thought that was only fitted to vehicles with air con, or has it only got one connector going to it rather than the normal 2?. I have had to renew this unit due to failure in the past, but the procedure that Wino listed should check that unit out if you have one fitted. I was refering to an openable box that has the relay inside it, from memory, i think it was to the side of the battery, but it is nearly 9 years since I last looked at a diesel 90 bhp, so I may be wrong. The switch on the radiator is the thermal switch, I believe the other one is a thermal sender for the gauge.

There is a useful little utility called Fat32Format that I have used for about 3 years now when I need to use a big card, does most of the heavy lifting for you, but also allows you to configure the perameters yourself if you want to go more advanced. Might be worth a look for you, I am running windows 10 latest 2004 version I have also used SD Card Formatter in the past with good success.

When you say you replaced the fan temp switch, would I be correct in assuming you mean the one in the radiator?. I seem to recall from memory that the diiesel non air con cars have a fan relay in a box under the bonnet, have you checked that item at all?, perhaps one of the diesel owning chaps on here could confirm this, as it has been a while since i've looked at a diesel in anger. Also, the blade fuses in the battery fuse box can have a habit of fracturing and looking ok, when they actually are blown. a quick check with a multimeter or fit a good spare is your way forward there. How does your temp gauge read on the road?, does it reach 90 degrees and sit there or does it drop back going down hills?.

Which engine size is your octavia, is it petrol or diesel?. Sorry for the questions, but a little info now can make diagnosis a bit easier and closer. A 3 letter engine code - i.e. AUM, BKE etc will make it much easier if you know it.

Yep, as moley said, the kit should come with an assortment of drill sizes that are matched to the helicoil insert that you intend to use, so yes drill out the old thread and you should have no need for any fixative at all.

As mac11irl asked earlier, what revision are your coilpacks?, are they originals from the factory, as they may be ready for their pension by now. There was a factory recall program for coilpacks which I believe is still active if they are original. Coils/ignition system are under most load under acceleration, especially when on boost, Do you have a code reader available to you or that you can borrow?, early failling packs may not register a code yet, but one that is nearly about to completely go electrically dead probably will. Worth a check, also, check the wiring loom to the coil packs across the cam cover for heat cracking/degrading of the insulation. Tape up any wiring that you can see the copper core visible. Also while you are there, make sure the coil loom earth tag onto the cam box is tight and clean. Wont take long to check, and most of this is just time, rather than parts outlay. One last thing, was there any oil in the plug tubes when you changed the plugs?, as build up of oil wil cause the plug to short and misfire.

Hi, Welcome to Briskoda. What model Octavia is yours?, do you have aircon/climatronic fitted?.