kentphil1

Hi, as said above check the bellows, but there can also be issues with corrosion on the drivers door operating module connection. This thread should give you more info - You dont mention your location in the global sense in your profile, so I assume for now that you are based in the UK with all the associated water and damp issues that we deal with over here. Hope it helps.

I would do a switching voltage check across the post cat lambda sensor. Usually when the codes for the internal heating element present themselves, then the actual lambda sensor function itself is not long from failure either. The coolant code can be either temperature sender or the thermostat itself in more extreme situations. Does the car reach 90 degrees and stay there or does it fluctuate on gradients, especially coasting downhill?.

Yep. stock fitment turbo on an AUQ is a K03s.

I see you mention a stainless exhaust in your original post, was it a full exhaust and de-cat, or just cat back?

I would start by getting the voltages read on your precat lambda sensor at idle, over 6% more than specified CO at idle says you have a fair little problem looming there. Did he mean 0.60% - 0.70%, or was it actually 6.0% - 7.0%? It would also be worth a code scan too. Is the exhaust system clear of any blows or leakage?, also, did you get an emissions test sheet with your mot test? I would also check your wiring at the maf is sound. I bet it smells a bit when it ticks over I'm guessing?. As Wino said, don't work with the engine running in an unvented garage with those readings, as it won't end well for you. Hope it helps, Phil.

Hi, welcome to Briskoda. Something is causing your management system to richen up to compensate for your issue. When you did a code scan did you do any live data logging or was it just a hand held code scanner?. Initial places to viually check are the "Y" breather pipe by the cambox, also the breather pipes under the manifold for splits. What sort of condition is the mass air flow sensor in. have you tried running with it unplugged to see if matters improve? Having a new sensor does not necessarily guarantee it is fully working, as this forum is littered with non OEM sensor changes that have failled very quickly. A quick scan on engine vs dash display tenps should confirm or condemn the sensor. I see you mention someone has had a play in the engine bay, are the breather hoses still present or has a catchcan been fitted. A quick VCDS scan and data log could save you an awful lot of time and changing of the wrong bits here. Just my 2p worth, Hope it helps, Phil.

Is that not part number 8 in the diagram?.

These 2 pages should give you a start point, the cover does require a little manipulation to come out, patience is needed for a few seconds. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/removing_and_installing_cylinder_head/summary_of_components/ https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/repairing_valve_gear/ Hope it helps

No queues here, as there is no fuel to queue for. Saw an army guy in a tanker on the A2, but he was riding passenger, presumably learning from the main driver who was in civvies. The result of that is more people, but still in the same number of tankers as before. Untill they ride solo in more vehicles, I can't see an immediate solution for a few days yet.

This might give you some guidance - https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_wheel_suspension/l_summary_of_components_assembly_carrier_anti-roll_bar_track_control_arm/ https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_wheel_suspension/removing_and_installing_assembly_carrier/ In answer to your question, yes the back of the frame has to drop, but it is just as easy to drop it completely enough on a jack with the body on stands. From memory, the steering U/J connection also has to come off to allow the drop.

Love that emoji at 1.25, yet another brilliant episode.

Yep, I'll second Dean on that one. Mine did the same, had a crack nearly 8 mm long in the casing

I suppose the obvious thing to ask is are you keeping the level topped up while you are waiting for your garage consult? If you are, it could be the sender airlocking because the housing is leaking. Really need a bit more info really to be more helpful.

It is possible that it is from the plastic housing that the coolant sender sits in, they do fail from old age from time to time. The best plan as has been said is to get a pressure test of the system, which should show it's origin. Hope it helps, good luck.

This post although relating to a front door is basically the same for the rear handle, the first picture should hive you an idea what i was refering to above.

There is a clip on finisher that clips over the handle itself, you can use a small flat blade screwdriver to start it moving, but be careful as it is easy to slip and damage the trim handle.

I have a good friend who had one of those, it didn't give him much trouble over the three years that he had it. The only regular issue was that the trim material on the door trims would unglue from time to time, but he re-did his with spray contact adhesive and that sorted it. Hope it works well for you

Here you go - https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/body/body_work/trim_noise_insulation/door_trim_panels/summary_of_components_of_rear_door_trim_panel/ https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/body/body_work/trim_noise_insulation/door_trim_panels/removing_and_installing_the_rear_door_trim_panel/ Hope it helps

Is the bleed nipple definately not partially blocked on that caliper?. I have had reduced flow issues on other vehicles in the past due to small amounts of corrosion. It's probably not, but worth a quick check anyway.

The gas level is done by weight of gas on these models, so a check at a specialist would be my next action.

Hi, welcome to Briskoda. I would start with a check on the gas level, did it blow cold consistently before the wiring repairs?. If all is correct on the gas level I would move on to a fault code scan to make sure all is well with the system. You do not say which model or year of Octavia that you have, does it have Climatronic or basic a/c?.

I have it on one of my sandisk drives, I think it is called secure access.

They look ok, just check the allen head is well formed, as it may not be an issue now when you fit them, but if the head is shallow, that will be a real pain in a few months if you have to remove them again for some reason. Do you not have a place like this - https://www.versatilefixings.com/ local to you?. I use independants like this all the time for nuts and fixings. Have you checked your local internet for such a place?.

If your dealer wants to sell you 25 screws, find another dealer. Both my Skoda main agent and my local VW agent will, and have sold to me on an individual basis. If you have a TPS local to you, they will sell on an as needed basis. If all else fails, just use a local trade screw supplier from the yellow pages, as you have the thread size and length. My local screw specialist does 10 M6 screws for £1 regardless of length - something to think on?. Copper grease on the disc screws is your friend for easy removal next time. As for the thanks, not necessary, its my pleasure buddy, hope you get sorted, as it sounds like you have a PITA parts man at your local dealer - they are not all like that, mine are good as gold.

The disc screw number is N 10648301, last time I bought 4 in 2018, they were 35p each. that number crosses over with other VAG models, so you can get them from VW dealers as well as Skoda dealers. Running without screws can be a real PITA if you need to do a quick wheel change without it all floating about. The screw itself changes from a philips head to a torx, and is an M6 x 16 The ABS sensor bolts can be 1 of 2 options, Either an M6 x 16 or an M6 x 22, both are socket hex screws. Part numbers are N 01474011 for the M6 x 16, and N 0147348 for the M6 x 22. Low speed ABS kick can also be caused by a cracked sensor ring on the drive shaft, but is fairly easy to check with the caliper and pads out of the way and a powerful torch. On the door screw, I think from memory it is an M5 x 9, but that is not a certainty, as it is about 3 years since I last did a lock. Can you not get it back out with one of the extendable magnet tools that are available like this one - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383705242028?epid=2008906134&hash=item59569d59ac:g:4poAAOSwNxxfUSuI The link was just to show what I mean, I have not used the seller so you might be wise to search for the best seller as always. Hope it helps. Phil.