EZ_lo

Thank you, kind Sir So the procedure goes on like this: - proper place & position - engine & lights on - adjusting until happy - lights & engine off - good to go?

I suppose everything can be perfectly ok with my headlights. Just wanted to know how difficult is the adjustment (eg if I can do it myself). Back to your lights - if you dazzle when the road curves to the left your left (passenger side) lamp could be the suspect ...

Hello fellas! After a few months of driving I came to the conclusion that my headlights beam was a tad too high. Went to dealers and they corrected it. Now I get the impression (yea - you guessed right ) that it is to low = beam reach too short. So far I have found this topic: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/197196-yeti-170-elegance-very-low-dipped-beam-headlights/ in which Shadowphax claims you do not need VAGCOM to adjust beam settings, just allen key. Anyone can confirm this? Just asking before I mess something up ...

Ditto

For this (LED in paralel with the bulb) to work LED needs to have a resistor (in series). So basically - same thing. But with a bulb

Six pounds for a couple of resistors sounds awfully expensive ...

According to Germans http://www.tuev-hessen.de/content/e2562/e8658/Serienreifen_Skoda_2011_11_ger.pdf for 1.2 engine the recognised tyres go on like this: - 205/55 R16 91H M+S - 205/50 R17 93H M+S - 215/60 R16 95H - 225/50 R17 94W Meaning that mike 111's tyres are perfectly ok (not overrated). BTW 94W means weight limit 670kg, speed limit 270km/h. As for the tyre change, did you change both front/rear tyres mike?

Dude, is the MDI even available for you, islanders? If it is - it should be somewhere in the centre console ...

Of course you're right. Only if it did fit without any alterations needed I would consider it an option. It's just that the 15" spares are significantly cheaper. Anyway - going for 16" than.

Hi there and welcome!

Back to spare wheel (spacesaver) questions: is there a slightest chance that a 15" would fit (1,4; MY12)? I am thinking that the calipers may be a problem ...

Thank you Sanqhar & TP - looks like I need a jack capable of lifting ~1100 kg (now it seems logical that it is roughly 1/2 of maximum car weight).

Thank you, I've already seen that thread. Sadly the sticker or other (possibly stamped ?) information is not visible - most importantly the weight limit. BTW#2 - regarding other topic - if I understand correctly you need to rotate the centre post 90 degrees to remove it (not the 45). Sorry for nitpicking

BTW - can any of you spare wheel owners provide me with a photo of the original Yeti jack? Trying to figure out which one to choose at fleebay ... Thank you.

Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately I missed my chance for having 16" meaning I do have 17". Should have made myself more clear

NP mate! Twas just a guess. Hope you will get things sorted quickly!

They say "last updated 01/11/09". Like in 2009? Does it apply to our monsters than? My personal feeling is that Yeti's paint is rather on the softer side unfortunately ...

Sounds like "emergency programme/mode". Any lights on? Could be for instance: EPC fault (page 32), gearbox fault (page 123)

In here changing from default 17" to 16" was free. But available for Elegance only. Sadly I missed it ... Maybe if I lived in Germany or some other civilised country I could fully enjoy lower profile of 17" rubber

Silly me Should've noticed "UK Yeti" along with "Johann" ... And no chances of noticing your thread here as since my monster has no sunroof I was not interested in this matter. Got there by accident only This is really a global village ain't it? (edit: btw - the spring/autumn signature rules)

<sunroof offtopic> If anyone of you is interested in taking the comfortable in-Yeti sunbathing a step further and opening the sunroof a tad more - see australian howto </sunroof offtopic>

In case anyone wondered I just wanted to add that the tongues mentioned are made of steel and only covered in rubber Setup of mine consists of Thule 775 clamps and 127 cm Norauto alu bars (which are in fact made by Thule and are equivalent of 869 bars). For me having longer bars (used with T bolts is an advantage over the Skoda solution).

IMHO the Caddy caps are the best solution for the steelies (although I prefer the "pentagonal" over the round ones). They cover and protect the hub and nuts on one hand and do not scratch paint off the wheel like full size covers do on the other. And they tend to be cheaper too. For me it is a win-win-win situation

The Essex version is not that bad. Agree about black roof and mirrors. What makes my eyes sore is this black scratch guard on the front door edge and those stickers in front of the doors. Also agree about utter ugliness of the Russian version ... Poor car

I would say as long as there are anough people willing to wait for months to get their Yeti there is no reason for Skoda to do anything like preparing more interesting offers. At the and of the day they are selling cars to earn as much as possible ... And having said that I would love to have paid less