Awesam

The parts on Autodoc are mainly from German suppliers which provide 2 years warranty on parts. I would go with brand ive used before like Febi Bilstein, Mahle, Metzger Autotelle etc.

That's works out to be about £240+ shipped! You could got one from Autodoc for £133 plus shipping depending on brand!

Hi Dan, Im in the same situation, ive got 150k but the engine was changed at 48k due to tensioner failure. when i was researching I've got the part number 06J133201BD - use autodoc, its very good for parts comparison with the part numbers. It could be that the seal/gasket for the intake valve has started to perish rather than the flaps. I'm going to book mines in for inlet valves and injector clean as it would definitely benefit it.

So big bills for me this month, I've already spent £800 (waterpump, DV+ etc) so far on the upkeep and probably close to £1500 so far this year. Ran VCDS this morning and i got the following error codes: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine (CCZ) Labels: 06J-907-115-CCZ.clb Part No SW: 1Z0 907 115 AF HW: 1Z0 907 115 F Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0010 Revision: AAH11--- Serial number: Coding: 0203000C18070160 Shop #: WSC 00191 264 15243 VCID: 79F90B6F302C89D6D3D-802C 3 Faults Found: 000568 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31) P0238 - 000 - Signal too High - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Time Indication: 0 Date: 2047.15.31 Time: 31:63:63 Freeze Frame: RPM: 0 /min Load: 0.0 % Speed: 0.0 km/h Temperature: 24.0°C Temperature: 17.0°C Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar Voltage: 12.192 V 008801 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) P2261 - 000 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 241750 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2059.14.17 Time: 05:11:32 Freeze Frame: RPM: 2947 /min Load: 7.4 % Speed: 58.0 km/h Temperature: 44.0°C Temperature: 9.0°C Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar Voltage: 14.224 V 000564 - Boost Pressure Regulation P0234 - 000 - Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition) Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 241752 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2059.14.17 Time: 05:14:44 Freeze Frame: RPM: 4722 /min Load: 55.3 % Speed: 67.0 km/h Temperature: 73.0°C Temperature: 11.0°C Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar Voltage: 14.097 V Readiness: 0000 0000 So the question is do i replace the G31 Sensor see if that cures it or is it most likely the Turbo actuator is on its way and needs reconditioned? The P2261 code is due to the install of the GFB DV+, made a difference to the throttle response.

I've got Continentials Sports Contact 6 all round. In my last VRS i stupidly only laid a MLV barrier in the boot and i felt like it didnt make much difference - https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-dead-mat-duo so I was planning to buy a bulk pack of 2mm Silent Coat and a MLV for the boot only to start off with. https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-2mm-deadening-mat followed by https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-pro-barrier-mlv For the Floor, Footwells & Boot

What's the expected life of the revised tensioner?

I got a very detailed response back from the deadening shop who suggestes a 2 stage approach for the best results. So I'm planning to get a bulk pack of silent coat 2mm sheets with some sheets of MLV 6mm sheets for the floor and boot only. I've read that applying some to the roof does make a big difference aswell.

I think its more than that as R-Tech in Nuneaton tuned a MK5 Golf GTI to 417bhp with a venom 450bhp hybrid turbo without strengthen the internal. However I do agree it would best too.

I wonder what the limit is before it needs forged internals!

Its was done by Shark Performance in Mansfield however they are unfortunately no longer in business - as far as I'm aware Ben and the team are working for Racing Line now. check out this site as for parts needed: http://r-techperformance.co.uk/axx-bwa-tfsi-k04-turbo-conversion/ I've had to spend about £3-£4k last year as the clutch had started slipping so got that replaced along with SMF, the B8 shocks started to leak so I replaced them with B8 Comforts from Germany, got some Eibach anti-rolls bar along the TT front bushes and a few other bits. I've just recently upgraded to R8 coilpacks and changed the NGK BR7 sparkplugs. yes its quick and surprisingly economical overall. However I'm in a dilemma to either go for a hybrid turbo or sell it.

I'm currently at circa 150,000 miles however the engine has been replaced at 48,000 due to the chaincam tensioner failing. It's had a K04 Turbo Conversion running at 350bhp with a stage 3 map. Most common issue I've found was the coilpack failing otherwise its been great. Planning on getting a walnut blasting service along with a injector clean next.

Does anyone know where the G28 sensor is located on a CCZA engine? I think I need to take it to a garage as it would be easier to from underneath.

At first not but when I tried in 4th, the EPC lights and engine failure /workshop message came up. I stopped the car and restarted and it was back to normal.

Hi I've experienced this whilst driving in 3rd gear trying to accelerate over 5000rpm, however it wont go past 5000rpm and i tried the same in 4th. After looking at the forum, i couldn't find anything substantial however find a post on american forum describing the same symptons and the solutions seems to be replacing the crankshaft sensor. I'll give an update once it done to see if its conclusion!

I wanted to ask to if anyone has covered the entire car with sound deadening - curious to find out how long it took and how much the costs were? Thanks

Hi I cant answer your query however I can share my experience of buying a 2nd hand VRS TSI however mines is manual. So about 4 years ago I bought a 2009 VRS which had 100,000 miles however the engine was replaced at 48,000 due to the timing chain failure. So far I've had no majors issues, just the usual misfire due to coil-pack failure

I've been having the same issue for a while now - having a flatspot/hesitation from 2500 - 3300 rpm whilst in 3rd/4th gear trying to accelerate . Mines is tuned to stage 3 by Shark and runs fine. Recently I've changed the sparkplugs and bought some R8 coilpacks due to a misfire, which didn't make a difference to the issue however when I changed the filter on my ITG Maxogen that seemed to improve it. otherwise at any other RPM range the car pulls like a train.

Great Thread. Any updates on the project?

Just need some water methanol injection now! 😁

Stunning! You've done an amazing job transforming the car. I think looks better without the carbon side stickers.

Labour for an independent/small garage should be about £40 - £50 per hour max from my experience. I paid about £105 for replacement of a CV Boot last winter at a garage which was near my workplace in the city centre. The local garage I use charges £45 per hour. Im based in Birmingham.