Awesam

Have you used Autotech before? I requested a quote for a water pump change and they were expensive compared to the rest. Autotechnik took the p*ss with £750 parts & labour. Got it done for £350 locally.

I had hesistate from 3000 - 3500rpm then its boost. I notice that it not as much since i changed the Diverter Valve.

What's the rocker box?

Ive watched a video on youtube of how to change it, not techical difficult just time consuming. Im not sure if mines was changed when the engine was replaced. I did have the fault code P2015 last week however its gone now since Ive had the water pump changed. Most likely the its the gasket/seal which perishes or the running flaps get carbon build up. Im planning an inlet valve clean therefore may get it done then as a perventative measure asit will save on labour.

The parts on Autodoc are mainly from German suppliers which provide 2 years warranty on parts. I would go with brand ive used before like Febi Bilstein, Mahle, Metzger Autotelle etc.

That's works out to be about £240+ shipped! You could got one from Autodoc for £133 plus shipping depending on brand!

Hi Dan, Im in the same situation, ive got 150k but the engine was changed at 48k due to tensioner failure. when i was researching I've got the part number 06J133201BD - use autodoc, its very good for parts comparison with the part numbers. It could be that the seal/gasket for the intake valve has started to perish rather than the flaps. I'm going to book mines in for inlet valves and injector clean as it would definitely benefit it.

So big bills for me this month, I've already spent £800 (waterpump, DV+ etc) so far on the upkeep and probably close to £1500 so far this year. Ran VCDS this morning and i got the following error codes: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine (CCZ) Labels: 06J-907-115-CCZ.clb Part No SW: 1Z0 907 115 AF HW: 1Z0 907 115 F Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0010 Revision: AAH11--- Serial number: Coding: 0203000C18070160 Shop #: WSC 00191 264 15243 VCID: 79F90B6F302C89D6D3D-802C 3 Faults Found: 000568 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31) P0238 - 000 - Signal too High - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Time Indication: 0 Date: 2047.15.31 Time: 31:63:63 Freeze Frame: RPM: 0 /min Load: 0.0 % Speed: 0.0 km/h Temperature: 24.0°C Temperature: 17.0°C Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar Voltage: 12.192 V 008801 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) P2261 - 000 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 241750 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2059.14.17 Time: 05:11:32 Freeze Frame: RPM: 2947 /min Load: 7.4 % Speed: 58.0 km/h Temperature: 44.0°C Temperature: 9.0°C Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar Voltage: 14.224 V 000564 - Boost Pressure Regulation P0234 - 000 - Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition) Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 241752 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2059.14.17 Time: 05:14:44 Freeze Frame: RPM: 4722 /min Load: 55.3 % Speed: 67.0 km/h Temperature: 73.0°C Temperature: 11.0°C Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar Voltage: 14.097 V Readiness: 0000 0000 So the question is do i replace the G31 Sensor see if that cures it or is it most likely the Turbo actuator is on its way and needs reconditioned? The P2261 code is due to the install of the GFB DV+, made a difference to the throttle response.

I've got Continentials Sports Contact 6 all round. In my last VRS i stupidly only laid a MLV barrier in the boot and i felt like it didnt make much difference - https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-dead-mat-duo so I was planning to buy a bulk pack of 2mm Silent Coat and a MLV for the boot only to start off with. https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-2mm-deadening-mat followed by https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-pro-barrier-mlv For the Floor, Footwells & Boot

What's the expected life of the revised tensioner?

I got a very detailed response back from the deadening shop who suggestes a 2 stage approach for the best results. So I'm planning to get a bulk pack of silent coat 2mm sheets with some sheets of MLV 6mm sheets for the floor and boot only. I've read that applying some to the roof does make a big difference aswell.

I think its more than that as R-Tech in Nuneaton tuned a MK5 Golf GTI to 417bhp with a venom 450bhp hybrid turbo without strengthen the internal. However I do agree it would best too.

I wonder what the limit is before it needs forged internals!

Its was done by Shark Performance in Mansfield however they are unfortunately no longer in business - as far as I'm aware Ben and the team are working for Racing Line now. check out this site as for parts needed: http://r-techperformance.co.uk/axx-bwa-tfsi-k04-turbo-conversion/ I've had to spend about £3-£4k last year as the clutch had started slipping so got that replaced along with SMF, the B8 shocks started to leak so I replaced them with B8 Comforts from Germany, got some Eibach anti-rolls bar along the TT front bushes and a few other bits. I've just recently upgraded to R8 coilpacks and changed the NGK BR7 sparkplugs. yes its quick and surprisingly economical overall. However I'm in a dilemma to either go for a hybrid turbo or sell it.

I'm currently at circa 150,000 miles however the engine has been replaced at 48,000 due to the chaincam tensioner failing. It's had a K04 Turbo Conversion running at 350bhp with a stage 3 map. Most common issue I've found was the coilpack failing otherwise its been great. Planning on getting a walnut blasting service along with a injector clean next.

I wanted to ask to if anyone has covered the entire car with sound deadening - curious to find out how long it took and how much the costs were? Thanks