Awesam

Well done! How much did it cost for the injector clean? Did they change the seals aswell? Too bad the uprated injectors for the CCZ engine are so expensive.

NP, I do it tomorrow, was suppose to do it today for another member but never got a chance too.

I'm running Sachs performance clutch with a SMFW and to me it's like running a stock clutch.

Strange I've never experienced it unless as the car had it when I bought maybe I've not noticed it! I changed it to a SMFW as I could hear a knocking with DMFW and the clutch was slipping. Happy to take a audio or video send it to you to check it out. The only change I've noticed is with the dog bone insert. I went for the power clutch which not is only rated to 550 nm, the clutch pedal feels like stock and is great for a daily driver. The organic/race one is rated at 800nm and the pedal would be heavy.

I had mines replaced last year with a Sachs Performance Kit which has a single mass flywheel and I've had no issue at all. SACHS Performance Clutch Module 883089000046 I changed the slave cylinder aswell. Clutch Central Slave Cylinder (CSC) 613182654150 | SACHS (sachsperformance.com)

Think you have several issues going on, best to get Error Code scanner/VCDS to scan them. Is it a petrol or diesel? As for not reving past 2500RPM if its a diesel then could be the EGR or Crankshaft sensor. ABS light could requiring new wheel hubs are the sensor is within the hub. However you wont be 100% sure until you scan for Error codes.

Yes

lol so leads me to think ive made the right choice! Ive done >100,000 miles so mines definitely need cleaning. Would be interested to know if there is an improvement in the drivability/response from the engine after it.

Well done! How long did it take? Im waiting for a slot at R-Tech for it to get done!

Would it be possible to install the Discovery Pro MIB2.5 following the same method?

Thanks Rob. I would love to fit a virtual cockpit to mines!

https://youtu.be/M20bMfpGqWU

Im having the same issue but not as bad as yours as it only incurs in 4th and 6th at the same rev range. I installed a GFB+ and that has helped. When you went for the remap, did you get a RS4 fuel valve and different MAP sensor installed? Ive bought one and will be installing it soon. Ill let you know it makes a difference. Also if you are still looking for a Forge Actuator, Ive got one and will let it go for much more reasonable price than Forge!

Could be that you're sub frame isn't aligned. Mines was out by 5 mm on one side and it would veer. Or could be the top mounts/bump stops.

Just an update, i sent it to AET Turbos who have inspected it and basically told me that its needs rebuilding due to wear in the shaft, cost of rebuild is £714 including VAT that will the same spec around 360 - 380bhp - the hybrid turbo must be about 8 years old. So if they do rebuild it will have a new core based on the latest technology. I'm contemplating if its worth it, i just spent £600 a few weeks ago and if i include the mechanics cost it will costs to £1k! So far i have sank £4.4k since last year on maintenance excluding the turbo rebuild costs! I have literally replaced most components on the car!

if you are interested.

Also waterpump housing may start leaking from 80-100k miles so best to factor that in aswell c£500 - £700 depending on mechanic.

Sending it to AET for an inspection, it seems the actuator nut was loose but want to ensure its not a seal. Im hoping its not needing a full rebuild.

Got the turbo taken off and its an old AET VT268 based on the K04

Personally I would rather buy it from Autodoc and pay the extra.

Have a look at these threads: and £75 for an intake manifold is amazing, im assuming that its a 3rd party part?

Have you used Autotech before? I requested a quote for a water pump change and they were expensive compared to the rest. Autotechnik took the p*ss with £750 parts & labour. Got it done for £350 locally.

I had hesistate from 3000 - 3500rpm then its boost. I notice that it not as much since i changed the Diverter Valve.

What's the rocker box?

Ive watched a video on youtube of how to change it, not techical difficult just time consuming. Im not sure if mines was changed when the engine was replaced. I did have the fault code P2015 last week however its gone now since Ive had the water pump changed. Most likely the its the gasket/seal which perishes or the running flaps get carbon build up. Im planning an inlet valve clean therefore may get it done then as a perventative measure asit will save on labour.