Micky 32

Everytime i connect obdeleven i always get a load of data bus errors.

Interestingly my Topdon battery tester keeps telling me to “replace “my 18 month old battery . But it cranks fast, starts instantly and the start stop works flawlessly.

It was 15 degrees this morning. Sorry i meant “there” not “their” my brain was also glitching this morning.

2024 vrs . Turned on the ignition this morning and a few errors bonged up. Something about parkiing brake error and auto hill hold error etc. This was before i cranked the engine. I’m guessing it’s the usual Octavia glitches or is their some issues ahead with the braking system? The errors disappeared without trace immediately after they flashed up.

Reluctantly took the plunge and updated OTA. All went well, think my battery was a bit low afterwards. I didn’t need to do a factory reset. Car was built March 2024.

New battery in the key couple of weeks back. The key was in my pocket. Definitely seemed like the car glitched.

Today i entered the car and when i closed the door the hazard lights flashed 3 times in rapid succession. I opened and closed the door repeatedly and the same result. The car then wouldn’t start. “ key not detected”. I locked the doors via the fob and then unlocked the doors. The car returned to normal. Anyone else ever see this happen? Hopefully nothing serious is brewing up.

I got the OTA notification this morning and now everytime i start her up. Should i just ignore it for now? I’m H49.

I have the same engine in my Octavia vRS. I’m currently at 75k km. After about 5500 km the oil on the dipstick is about halfway down. I think that’s a bit much, can’t be great for the DPF longterm. My old 2017 Passat BiTdi 240bhp dipstick was still full at 15k when changing the oil.

I use the BM2 battery bluetooth monitor. Great cheap little device. It measures cranking voltage too. This is the one i use: https://www.amazon.ie/DollaTek-Battery-bluetooth-Diagnostic-Compatible/dp/B09MJ4PL72/ref=asc_df_B09MJ4PL72?mcid=b8148804e6e63623ae6216accc212292&tag=ieshopgosmp-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=743331780646&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15410731860353893227&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9040158&hvtargid=pla-1641489871169&psc=1&language=en_IE&gad_source=1

I have a battery monitor on the car and occasionally during the night ( last night at 4:45 am) it seems to wake up for a few minutes . I gather it’s the Skoda servers looking for info off the car periodically. Does anyone know what?

Exactly. Modern cars are well able for the start stop system. There’s a lot of BS out there regarding SS. My 2017 passat had 200k on it when i sold it. The battery lasted 7 years despite thousands of starts. The starter was still original when i sold it.

Yes. When i came back from France the car thought it was still there for 2 days. It sometimes thinks i’m going across fields. It can stop the acc from working too. It’s intermittent and because there are no fault codes the dealer isn’t interested.

Another code i get is the “ battery budget “ code in the telematics. I think it lasts for a few hours but you can’t access the car online when this code appears apparently to save your battery. Also the infotainment system takes a lot longer to boot up after you start the car.

The battery that just failed that lasted only 2.5 months was a Grundig. The original battery was a Panasonic.

My car was on the second key battery replacement and each time the dash would warn me it was low. I put a new battery in only 2.5 months ago. Saturday eve i went out to the car and nothing. No red light etc. i took the battery out and refitted and it started working again so i thought it might have been just a bad connection. Battery seemed clean and nice and tight. Two days later the key is still working fine but i noticed the red light that flashes stopped working. Checked the voltage on the key battery and it was too low. Replaced battery and all is fine again. Anyone else experience their battery fail without a dash warning? I obviously had a faulty one because it only lasted 2.5 months.

I don’t think my 18 month old battery is the best. My tester keeps telling me to replace along with a reading of 58- 70% SOH ( depending on battery mood and temps) Everytime i go into diagnostics with the obd11 I’m welcomed with a lot of communication errors that keep returning . I also have seen a “ low voltage “ one. I do a lot of miles so the battery shouldn’t be low. The interesting part is if i didn’t have a tester or an obd11 i woild never know about the issue. Start stop works flawlessly, car cranks nicely and no errors ever on the dash.

I’m still on 1985 and i have them new directions.

My car is only 18 months old and has an entire energy throughput 8400 ah, not sure if that’s high? Your battery resistance is quite high if you have an EFB or AGM.

I wouldn’t say that was the original battery. Looks like a dealer replacement battery, part number begins with 000. The year is usually stamped on the negative post. That Yuasa battery will do the job.

I’m a person that is very reluctant to buy an EV. The main reason is i do about 30,000 miles a year. To be honest i like my vRS diesel. But this EV has me fantasizing lol. However reviews mostly don’t seem great, putting me off a little. I’d like to hear from actual owner’s experience. Are they fast? Nice to drive etc? Does it do the range as advertised? My main concern is longevity, after 3 years i would have approx 90k on it. Will the battery have degraded much at 90k? Roughly on average how much do you save vs petrol/diesel?

Sorry i should have mentioned the 50-70% is for SOH not charge.

Yeah, i always make sure everything is shut down and take note of the soc. You can get a 100 amp difference if your soc is 12.45v vs 12.70. My battery is a 700 amp en. At 12.45v it reads 500 amps. At 12.6-7 it reads around 600 amps en ( good battery, recharge). Comparing to other batteries that are the same helps. A friend has the same battery in his VW but a year older. I tested both at the same voltage 12.45. Mine read 500 amps “ replace” and his read 636 amps “ good battery”. His engine and battery was cold but mine was hot with a warm battery.

Sometimes i wonder about battery testers. My 18 month old battery tests anything from 50%-70% ( depending on it’s mood) with a “replace” report. However it performs perfectly and so does the start stop.

Does it have OEM navigation? If so does it affect it?