Norry

OK, so the same mechanicals produce more torque so there must be more load at any given revs.

How can it be less stressed if the same mechanicals are producing more power?

But.... main reason for the post... my fuel filter casing was extremely rusted and corroded. For a 2.5 year old car I was surprised to say the least! Has anyone else experienced the same thing? Apparently... not covered under warranty either. Strange that huh! How the heck can a component in that position rust to the extent that it has to be replaced? I thought it was going to be under the car covered in mud but on top of the engine compartment - I am amazed!!

I know I am old fashioned!! I also sprayed WD40 into every body joint and piece of bare metal under the bonnet. I then black Waxoyled every visible bolt and suspension component under the car when I had the wheels off to change to winters when the car was new. I cannot stand seeing rusty bits under a nearly new car. I also lightly greased the wheel studs and hubs so that nothing seized. Alloys corroding and sticking to hubs is a very common problem which I am not willing to experience.

Where is the fuel filter on the 2 litre diesel? Just so I can check on mine, thanks.

Where, on the Yeti, is the OBD port and how difficult is it to get a cable from there to the dash? I imagine it is quite a problem.

White is very good - never looks dirty until it really is dirty, unlike black that shows every biy of dust and every mark you left when washing it. Black also gets very hot in the sun (OK I know there isn't much of that about) and probably deteriorates faster because of that. Red looks superb but does look a bit like a fire-engine. Old reds used to go matt pink but they claim modern ones don't.

Great until the handbrake module becomes faulty and costs about £600 to replace!

The point with a conventional "Slush Box" auto is that holding the car in drive on the handbrake does no harm to the gearbox. On an auto with dry clutches it must be wearing off the linings unless the system automatically selects neutral gear. Personally I am really p'd off when siitting at night behind someone at traffic lights with their foot on the brake - this should not be legal as it is blinding. So many modern cars have high level brake lights at the eye level of a following driver.

All you have to do to see if they are worn is to look at them and feel for feathering on the edges. Are you sure the tracking was out and it was not just the steering wheel not on straight?

I agree they are the first pics where that has struck me - all hard angles on a smooth curvy car.

The problem with the Yeti rear brakes is that they just don't do much work so it takes a lot of use before rust caused by overnight rain or damp weather is worn off. Normally I would apply the brakes and the gas at the same time but you can't do that now so I pull up on the handbrake for a few seconds while applying power and that usually clears recent rust. If you do that whenever it is required then you won't get the amount of corrosion you have accumulated and your discs should stay bright.

Yes, I worked for Wang then and we were all Wangsters. I am surprised that the Kia Soul has never been commented on.

Hear! Hear!

I agree that the Uphall branch, under the same management, has always been very good over the 25 years that I have dealt with them and I am very surprised at your experience.

"Apparently the timing chain has slipped causing the valves to hit the pistons." MiKE Surely, if this had really happened it would not have been possible to drive the car into the dealer's shop?? Norry

If you remove the front mudflaps before fitting the arches the all you have to do after fitting is re-shape the flaps a little and refit them. That is what I did. Norry

Our Yeti was bought for winter use and seeing as we didn't really have a winter last year it has done 2,000 miles in 16 months. We do all local trips in the Fabia and longer summer trips in the Jaguar.

No body has any experience of the 16V 1.4 ?

I am a fairly experienced car owner and I cannot identify the sound's source. It is heard when the engine is warm and it comes from the belt end of the engine but doesn't sound like a belt! I have listened carefully at that side and cannot identify the source. I am sure it's not the exhaust or the tappets or the injectors. It is a sound I have not heard before. The car performs perfectly at all engine speeds with good fuel consumption. I just wondered if there are any owners of the same model that can say "Oh! Yes, they all do that" or "No, that's odd". The dealer's technician just dismissed it as a normal engine sound but it isn't, in my experience. It can be heard from about 15 feet away when the engine is idling.

Our 16V 1.4 makes a weird sort of "flacky - flacky - flacky" sound on idle. Sorry about the odd description! It's done this since new, only 2,000 miles now. I goes as the revs are raised and the dealer says it's just normal but it is quite distinct above all other engine sounds. Has anyone got a 16V 1.4 and does it make the same noise? Thanks Norry.

Tyres have had that dot on them for at least 50 years!

Back in 1960 I put a rebuilt engine in my 1936 Austin 7 then we went on holiday to Cornwall from Croydon. Running in in the 7 was limited to 30mph - you should have seen the queues behind us ---!

It was due to the cold weather making the air very dry and so the static electricity on your clothing not leaking away until you ground yourself on the metallic door.

Sorry but in your first post you said you both get similar MPG. Where do you get fuel that cheap?