07 vRS Taxi

I'd say so, not to mention damage to the cam and crank due to contaminated oil, a friends car had a rising oil level due to a fault with the lambda, the ecu thought it was running lean so kept pumping masses of fuel into the cylinder and the high compression was forcing it to pass the rings. I havn't got a pd170 either, I come on this forum to help and build my knowledge as I plan to open my own repair centre by June when the diagnostic course I am doing finally finishes!

They mentioned over fueling by saying grey/white smoke at idle though, im glad they did because everytime this pops up somebody on here says the rising oil level is down to the injector seals! How on earth? Poor injector seals would introduce air into the cylinder not diesel into the sump. The diesel into the sump is due to the overfueling of the injectors adjusted out of spec as Shark says, the term for this is 'bore wash' this isn't directed at you Andy just saw a chance to air my view on the matter.

The chances are it's the wiring, best leave it to the experts there's only so much you can do without a multimeter and workshop data.

My petrol vRS hasn't and I'd imagine the diesel would be the same. You should be able to see if it has anti-rattle shims or not?

Ill check autodata tomorrow.

All you can do is pull them and check what goes down, or use garage data.

I believe this one will be more suitable... http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.9_2007/p/car-parts/car-lubricants-and-car-fluids/lubricant-and-fluids/engineoil/?521776061&1&1f2a6852a64fc73db4a8ef93265a39c51cb256a5&000398

The map that goes with the fuse box is fine! It's just a mirror image of the fuse box itself.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16484/P0100/000256 Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk 2

If you have changed the MAF and checked the wiring properley then you have a fault with the ECU you are getting a reading so the fuse will be ok. Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk 2

On my last MOT the tester couldn't keep the RPM steady enough he said he had to set the machine as if it was a 5 cylinder to get a good reading. It misfires that bad sometimes I can hear it popping when I stand at the exhaust. I see what you mean they shouldn't move at low RPM I can't remember the part number of mine but I did check it once and it isn't the revision, they will only send you the revised part. Let me know how you get on mate.

yeah im leaning towards an intake fault but all is good under load, ill do a compression test anyway..

Ah fair enough mate, did you check the misfire counters? I have multiple misfires on all cylinders at idle but not underload. I've also checked fuel pressure that's OK though.

Thanks! I wouldn't remove the flap motor mate it helps direct the air, aiming it at the piston swirl chamber near TDC whilst in stratified mode it's the way the TFSI is engineered. I know my motor is ok I have no fault codes and the basic setting was performed by VCDS OK.

Mine also does this but with the poor weather, full time work and full time education I havn't managed to solve it...yet.

The arguement on gearbox and engine oil has been had many times on here and my input as usual is...VAG don't produce their own synthetic oil so aslong as it meets the requirements they specify then use it.

Trolley jacks? Who has been jacking on your plastic engine cover? I'd take it back to them...

Very true, it's personal preference but before I zip it on this thread I will say that the tyres are only as good as the driver controlling the vehicle ;-)

Just got two budget tyres fitted on my vRS £60 each all inclusive, I know people are scared to drive with cheap tyres but I don't drive on the Autobahn or take regular trips to Silverstone so it's ok.

Give it time lol...

Ring Skoda and ask for the interval on my petrol vRS and they'll tell you 4 years or 120k. Far too many miles if you ask me.

Bad news, as I said on my post removing the inspection cover to check it doesn't always draw the full picture.

Last year I changed the 'Two' timing belts on my girlfriends 2003 1.4 16v Seat Arosa Sport with almost 60k on it. There was no record of it ever being changed, the belts looked in good condition when l took the inspection cover off at the cam sprockets but when I removed the belts and pinched them together they both showed signs of cracking so I was glad I did it.

OK fair enough I see where you're coming from (no disrespect to anyone that posted) I have a vRS TFSI and I have removed it plenty of times without breaking it. Ill not go through every step as already said you can read the guide above. Once everything is disconnected it is held on by four rubber gromits (in the engine cover) that push onto four pegs (on the engine). It doesn't pull off easy, aim to pull either the top or bottom set off first by gripping the engine cover as close to the gromits as you can, don't just pull up you could break it so shake from side to side and pull up at the same time you may have to get tough and shake like a mad man having a fit! It will pop off in the end. Repeat other set of gromits. Some of the gromits may be stuck on the engine pegs that's ok just pull them off (when cold) and re-fit to the cover. Grease the gromits with multi purpose or silicone grease to ensure they come off easier next time. Good luck!Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk 2

The Skoda diagram is right Fubar although I agree a little awkward to understand as it is a mirror image of the fuse box itself.Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk 2