mac11irl

the AMB is "Ambiente" which is the trim level the car was built to. the 12V is the number valves - 4per cylinder LA7W-8E8E is the paint colour code (Brilliant Silver) all the other stuff relates to upholstery, radio, elec windows, cruise control etc that were part of the build code for the factory. its mostly irrelevent tbh. some people dont like to post up chassis numbers or reg numbers as they could potentially be used to "clone" a vehicle.

should do, theres no real difference other than the actual trim material.

if you read it fully, the way it can be registered seems to depend on jurisdiction, even by state within the US. its treated mostly in the same class as a golf cart, but, an awful lot cheaper. tbh it would be ideal for swmbo's commute to work, though i think i know what shed say if i tried to get her one add a few more better batteries though and it could be a viable option for some.

thanks george, i was going to post them too, but wanted to build the suspense i dont know i didnt get notifications about this though, since im following it. @J.R. i dont know why the links wouldnt open, shouldve gone to Jalopnik's website.

hi, if you have a look in the ICE sub forums, id say theres plenty info in there. mk1 has iso connectors so hook up is easy, just needs a antenna power booster added, as the oem headunits have it built in.

the cheapest electric car on Alibaba.... the Changli Freemen. https://jalopnik.com/i-ordered-a-brand-new-chinese-900-ev-online-1842363027 i have to find the "unboxing" article and video again, but the below is his first range test. https://jalopnik.com/this-is-the-real-world-range-of-the-cheapest-ev-in-the-1844044528

morning, pretty sure you can replace it, you need to vcds to code it to your vehicle. (theres a couple of old threads on it, hasnt come up in a while.) normally though a repair is just reflowing the solder joints as they dry out, become brittle and crack over time. £250 seems a bit steep for that. the repair threads have more detail on that too.

rallye green is the best mk3 vrs colour imo race blue for a mk2, though the candy white does look tidy when its kept clean *edit: candy white is for facelift mk2 i should be more specific... i agree about race blue losing the special status with mk3 when a 1.6tdi could also get it...

i havnt driven the ranger, but there was one floating around in work as a sample of whats being rumoured to to replace our transit fleet next year. seems they are much cheaper to lease than our 7 seat crew cab transits, but as i pointed out.. where do the other 2 guys go? and where does everything bigger than a hand tool go in the back? i just got one of those looks that says " dont worry, that hasnt been thought of by management yet, and itll be too late before they do, even though thats what everybody has said" most of the lads that took it for a drive said the same - its not very comfortable, and would probably cripple you on a long drive. i would love one, in a countryboy sort of way, but it would have to be a raptor and then i look at prices... and then i think, id rather live with a more comfortable hilux.

thats insane money for some speakers/ car radio. is the canton really that good in a mk3???

its also possible the cleaning may have damaged it... i doubt its going to need an engine stripping to solve it tbh. you can get a cheap (20-30quid) obdii plugin bluetooth dongle on ebay, then install torque/torque pro/carista app on your phone. next time it throws the light on run your own fault scan and post up the error codes.

that is a good point. we had a 7.5T truck smack itself under one of our bridges last week, with a load bay full of batteries. Fire Services took their sweet time declaring it safe to pull it out due to the massively increased risk.

yeah,but if it was from an engine sitting in a breakers its already possibly life expired or was dying slower than whatever killed off the donor car.

hi, its in the mk1 section, should be in the mk2, but a friendly mod, like @Chris, might move it for you. on the issue, did you see the diagnostic scan, as to what error code it showed up? or did the mech just say "its the egr again"

yeah, thats the block they took and rebored to make it a 2litre for the insignia, but never changed the oil galleries or the feed system, so bottom end oil could be less than needed, followed by lots of excess wear and eventual death. anyway, good luck with the new Octavia!!

maf. buy a genuine one and youll be alright pattern version sensors just dont work well in vag engines. CTS is the same.

if my avg speed was 43mph, a)id be late all the time b) my 105bhp 1.6tdi would be averaging around 70mpg

@Phil-E was the basic block of that engine a gm diesel? my 2009 in****nia ate its big end bearings last year, due to the crappy oil feed design... really common issue, i got lucky noticed a problem (thought it was the egr/maf) before it seized on me.

hi if you look ib the for sale section ther might be someone. or post a wanted ad

rust areas tend ti be around the wheel arches and check around the tailgate lock panel/ above the number plate.

you can get the full factory build specification with a vin decoder website. there are several, some more reliable than others, i just cant remember what one i used previously though, its been too long.

thanks @langers2k gonna do some hefty thinking a for a few days after reading the ither thread..

thats all ive done with mine for now too! i may have a proper look and see if i can think and easy way around it... aka, pick a decent type of adhesive to try..

@marfrohun did you get anywhere with this? mine is split and courtesy of it starting on a motorway run, its nicely ripped..

are the black rubver seals around headlight units available as a separate item? mine are split and ravelling away at the top, ive tucked them in to stop the flapping in the wind while driving, but may need to look at a proper fix.. thanks guys