mac11irl

@Wino allegedly he is leaving...

yup. same thing happened me when i changed a lock mechanism... confused the feck outa me for ages, because i thought i had counted the grooves properly...

test, test test and then test with the door open. where the end of the cable sits into the grooves on the outer grab handle, the tension needs to be slacked off just a smidge. so you click it a groove looser, then test it by closing the latch with a screw driver and opening it again with the handles (inside and outside) several times. if its right itll pop the latch, if not it will hold it closed, adjust again.

not 100% sure but wouldnt a killswitch just mean your bolero resetting to factory default everytime you cut its power completely?

white violent dots? op best be careful when changing them, in case he triggers them just lol-ing at a (possibly autocorrect) typo... if you are looking at them, bilstein b4 series shocks are available to match the various setups/loadings. b6 is the "sportier" version ie stiffer.

the outer bowden cable hasnt been put back on with the same tension. open the window, lean on the oiter skin of the door, beside the handle, just a bit, then pull the inside handle. taking a smidge of trnsion off the outer cable should let the inner one work.

EGR acting up is the most likely cause. might be a nothing brought on the hard acceleration

i thought they were mechanical? i presume youve checked all the cables for continuity, and mechanisms getting power with the fob to lock unlock?

correct,but a site i had used before worked. albeit for an insignia at the time.. vag hide tge data behind erwin, if uou have acces to the boot sticker. ..

pm'd

nope..

good day here too! sun is shining, is still warm and uncomfortably humid. just back after another Personal best 5k run. also only my 3rd, so feeling knackered but good. your journey here will bring down many rabbit holes so many you never find the way back out... 🤐

as above. if the whacking works, get the door stripped immediately and replace the unit and/or strip the harness.

its weird isnt it, how colours can be brilliant and not look right. i recall someone respraying a mk1 octy in "mk2 Race Blue" and it didnt look right. yellow on a FL mk2 octy vrs is nice but not quite right. the rare yellow mk1 vrs though.. looks brilliant if its been maintained well. i love the mk3 rallye green, on a mk3. it wouldnt look right on a mk2 though (imo)

i have no idea tbh, ive never used coilovers. my comment is based purely on reading many of the vrs project threads here over the last 8yrs of membership i just retain the base info from them in terms of what works and what you need to be very careful about..

more samsung phone quality backyarď nature shots spud Sr

R32 ARB and an S3 strut brace iirc from a while back along with a RARB. dampers, springs and coilovers can be a minefield of missold/ mislabelled (often unintentionally) mk4 golf stuff that fits but is the wrong loading. bilstein b4 are oem but better quality. b6 are "sporty upgrade" ones. cheap? no, but if you want it to sit right and feel right dont buy cheap crap, esp if you go the coilovers route. hundreds of threads on various ebay specials being terrible, or looking awful because they are leon/golf weight rating, not the heavier octy etc etc. if you look up Bowders1 's project thread, his was, imo, one the most sorted looking mk1s until he sold it when he got a focus RS a couple of yrs ago. theres a few other proper ones from the same timeline, have a look

i like this. it would encourage others to join in too.

your MIL is clearly a woman of taste

@Mickhill im late to this discussion, but that tyre in tge op looks theres a actual step cut into the shoulder rather than a flat wear surface from road contact, which would be caused by that point rubbing on something in the wheel arch. have you checked the arch and the new tyre for catching on anything? or that may move into contact with the tyre when driving, like the front of the wheel arch liner?

my octy was fitted with a full set of them by the dealer when i bought it. had them previously on old octy and cordoba. in a similar price bracket id preferred the firestones i got for old octy. better wet grip. i used to get Cooper zeons for my cordoba at a really good price and they were a decent all rounder, bout the same rate as the kuhmos/firestones but i paid 20% less than that..

theres plenty of threads along the line of "i just spotted this for sale" - link to advert - " going for a look and a drive on Tueaday, will let you all know" roll forward to Tuesday... " drove it, and im very disappointed.. idle felt really rough and you cant see the rust starting around the sills in photos but its there, wont be taking it any farther" no issue with you doing similar

free tip - ask the question here before you commit to anything You can have that free as youve spent enough already today

well theres an extra thicket growing now.... and another Tonne of Carbon offset

🤔🤔🤔