varaderoguy

I don't think that everybody ever found the answer to AFS issues. I had the same problem on my 2016 Octavia Scout. The system is speed sensitive and from discussions from the local dealer and having seen a technical bulletin from Skoda on the issue, the behaviour is not described as a fault. The headlights are meant to be sensitive to direction of the steering-wheel and are meant to give you additional visibility and lighting up the edge of the corner you are travelling around. The annoyance seems to be that the lights do not straighten up until you speed up (as opposed to taking direction from the steering wheel that should probably happen). Two potential workarounds: 1) Set-up your driving profile (ie go into Eco, Normal, Sport mode) and select Individual. Select "Sports mode" for Headlights. This improves the reaction of the headlights (but doesn't cure the issue) 2) Take the highlights off AUTO mode and use them in normal mode - which you seem to have discovered already. There might be a firmware update for the Lighting Left and Lighting Right modules, but good luck in getting a Skoda garage to update your car's firmware!!!!

OBDEleven is definatly the way to go in that case. Good luck - if you pay for the Pro veriant, you get Long-Coding made available to you too.

Yes, you can revert to older bluetooth versions. However, if you have Android, you need to active developer mode. Go into Settings -> About Phone-> software. Find out where it states the Build Number - and click on it 10 times. This activates developer mode. Now go back one step and go Settings -> Developer Mode. Scroll down until you reach Bluetooth AVRCP version. Most devices will be fine with AVCRP Version 1.4. If that is not playing nicely, then try Version 1.3.

In terms of whether it is worth it, I have both ODBEleven and VCDS. It really depends on technical competance; if you are good with a PC, then VCDS is definately the way to go. Gives very good granular connectivity. ODBeleven is a good tool, but feel it is slightly clunky interface. Very good for reading diagnostics and for giving your car extra little mods, but not great for anything else.

One of joys of living next to a major road artary is that I get to see all the cars on the low-loaders being trucked up to dealers. I saw my first Octavia MK4 today - an estate in Denim Blue heading up to West End Skoda in Edinburgh. They are coming in; slowly but surely. I'll query my dashcam and see if I can the image of it if anyone is interested.

Generally, a new waterpump will fix the problem - it was just the factory original pumps that were problematic. If it was done 8k ago (along with the timing belt), then all good for another 52k miles.

I would say that if you are coming from a Citroen C5 Estate (I am a former Citroen owner - my first car was a Citroen CX), then you will definately need an Octavia Estate as your replacement car. With the VAG cars, its all dependant on your journey needs. If zooming up and down the M6 is your thing, then you will definately need a TDI...no questions. Generally, 45-55mpg and bulletproof reliability. DSG gearbox are not all bad...it all depends on the previous owner and how they have been used/abused in the past. So - if you have your eyes on a 13 plate early MK3 Octy, then that sounds about the right price. Sounds slightly expensive, but the trouble is that the second hand car market has gone bonkers recently (ie everybody wants a Skoda), so that could be the market trade price. Things I would check - you will *definately* need the waterpump replaced as a matter of urgency - see . Make sure the car has had its minor/major services done and that its log-book is up to date (should have either a standard or digital printout). Check recalls - https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall and make sure that the dealer has done a proper service prior to selling it to you. There are plenty of good MK3's available....my personal preference is the FL (or face-lifted) versions - cos they are generally put together better, but it all depends on your budget. A good number of taxis drivers cannot be wrong - you have this fantastic resource available too. I wish you good luck on getting your first Skoda! PS....a Rapid will be too small.

Its not hard....just set a value to do with battery voltage level so that auto-stop start never kicks in.

I suspect it maybe the combination of a DSG gearbox interface and its 4 wheel drive....in all honesty, I cannot really answer that question. Best you give him a shout first and get a quote for your vehicle.

Its the boot struts - my first Octy did that. You can either try a light grease on the structs or check the fixings at the top and bottom of the struct to see if they are slightly corroded.

I did make contact with Chris and he was very kind and give me a price via text message. It was £450 for a genuine camera on my 2019 Octavia Scout; my car was going for service at Autohaus in Edinburgh anyhow - and they quoted £475 for the same job. Sadly, the cost in fuel (from Scotland) didn't justify visiting Chris on this occasion, but I will check what the price would be on my husband's Octavia SE1.0 and my mother-in-law's Fabia SE-L in the near future.

Signal too low - basically means the sensor is knackered. It means that reading from the sensor instead of reading the PPM levels of NoX, are instead just reading zero. Usually a sign that the sensor has either gone short-circuit or open-circuit (usually open-circuit). P1033 - confirmed as NoX Sensor - reading too low. If the G295 sensor has failed, then it will need to be replaced. The £400 odd pounds is not the right price. A quick google has shown then to be in the region of £100 to £150, which is more reasonable. You need to try and get the VW part code - and that will help you reference either original part or pattened part as necessary.

Have a look at the list of VCDS owners: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=55.04129622907192%2C-2.921361609586386&z=8 or at the forum for VCDS: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ I am the blob - in the eastern side of the Scottish Borders if you get really struck.

Then we are into the realms of wiring loom issues in that case (unless you have a power tail-gate - in which case, things get way more complex). We will need a VCDS/OBDEleven output from the car to see what is happening (need error codes).

It will be one of two things: either the boot latch sensor has failed or you have a misalignment of the boot lid - stopping the boot lid from properly closing.

I'm having my Scout retrofitted with the proper VW part at Autohaus in Edinburgh in a fortnight's time. Cost came in at £480 inc parts and labour. Thought that was quite reasonable.

All MK3 Octy's (non-FL) variants had this issue. As you said, they fall apart quite quickly, but it keeps the stones away from the brakes.

What radio do you have? If you have an Amunsden system, then you will need a 4G dongle to make this all work (to plug into the USB port).

You can probably order whatever you want as a 'special' order - a 245bhp, 4x4 Scout should be my option! The other option would be to buy from Skoda in the CZ (in UK spec) and look to import it back into the UK.

Just out of curiosity - does this age of Yeti need a battery coded into the system? More modern Skodas/VW need batterys need encoding onto the CANBUS system, otherwise they will not charge.

I did do a little research on this issue before responding. You are right that things on Android are different, but the principles are the same. The Low Power can be switched on at anywhere between 20 and 80%. The phone will be locked into low power mode below 20% and switched out above 80%. In between those ranges, you can manually switch in/out Low Power Mode. What I was (probably badly) trying to say is....just make sure that low power mode is not engaged otherwise performance issues may occur.

Well, it depends on the phone. Some phones have a Power Saving feature that switches out WiFi and/or Bluetooth when the phone not in use or alternatively restricts power to the CPU...or just reduces power when the phone gets to 15%. You cannot do much about the last case but the former cases you can.

Folks - there are some rules that need to be adhered to with either Apple Carplay or Android Auto. Firstly, make sure that any power saving features on your phone are switched OFF. If you have power saving services enabled, it will cause slowness and random connectivity issues with your MIB system. Secondly, firmware of the system....the firmware of the MIB systems can sometimes be very flaky. I found this on my 2016 Octavia Scout and on my 2018 Octavia VRS. In both cases, a firmware update fixed the wierdnesses of carplay/auto connectivity. I ended up doing a firmware update myself on my 2019 Scout on my Amundsen system. Yes, phones need to be the latest firmware too. Please assume that most Skoda dealers will not understand or be interested in the MIB firmware issues on your car....it takes time/money to fix them and generally unless you directly show the technician what the fault is, they won't fix it.

Do you guys have contact details for Chris Farthing? I tried to Google them, but didnt get much in the way of luck.

You can find that in the VCDS section of the forum and also there is a pinned posting in the top of the MK3 section.