varaderoguy

I'm sure that @pab567 will be along to assist soon. Your maps are somewhat out of date too (2017) - maybe a maps update might be a good thing.

If you look at the compressor readings, there is no compressor current being utilised....so I suspect you have a ceased or jammed compressor.

As for the poor starting, you have to understand the sequence of events that go with starting up an Octavia. Cars these days are super-smart. They check all of the valves and sensors before they even attempt to start. It sounds like you have an event that is so severe that the car is refusing the start until it is resolved. Annoying that it is intermittent, but that points to either an intermittent sensor or valve reading. There are certain events that happen that will be labelled 'critical' in terms of the car operations. Having no coolant is a sure-fire way of not having a car starting. If a value or sensor has gone faulty it will be giving interminate readings. These maybe saying to the ECU - that there is no cooling - and therefore the engine will be protecting itself and refusing to start. Okay - I have checked out the error code you have given me: P199E00 states - Cylinder Head Coolant Value - Circuit Open. This is a 'critical' error and cannot be bypassed. The Valve which provides the coolant to the block is reading open circuit (it has failed or is failing). It maybe the actual value is faulty....who knows....but it will need to be replaced ASAP.

If you go down that route, then you might want to go the whole hog and install DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control); you can go for the Rough-Road package which will give you the extra height....then upgrade the tyres. If you are really fused about the plastic sidetrims, they need to be chemically bonded to the bodyshell.

ODBEleven reports that P0571 is: Cruise/Brake Switch (Automatic) Circuit Malfunction. It doesn't sounds like the switch - it sounds like a circuit problem. The circuit which detects the pressing of the brake pedal is occassionally experiencing open-circuit. If you have fitted a new switch, it probably won't be that one. What we need here is a circuit diagram to understand what that circuit electrically looks like and for a multimetre to be used to check contenuity.

Oh dear, this looks like the captive plastic nut that keeps the top of the clutch pedal mounted to the top of the box area. Yes, it shouldn't have fallen off and I suspect that it needs to be screwed back on with locktite. The trouble is it is located in a completely inaccessible area underneath the right foot area. Dashboard lower cowling may need to removed.

I suspect our friend here has lost his rubber grippers to stop the parcel shelf from flapping around. They can easily detach, so it maybe a case of getting new parcel shelf rubber mounts to fix the problem.

Yes, agreed. Blackridge Autos seem good. https://blackridgeautos.com/ Good luck with getting it fixed.

Where did you get the LED lights from? lots of cheap Chinese lights will just fail randomly. Please order from SuperSkoda to guarantee long life on the LEDs.

Maybe quantifying my last post, most of the loom is in...but it really depends on the spec and wiring harnesses installed.

Interesting. Sorry to have lead MrSkoda up the garden path, but in most cases the waterpump and cam are on the same belt and location. I know this to be the case on the 1.2 and 1.0tsi engines. However, it still doesn't get away that lose of coolant is a bad thing....and that most early MK3's had this bad water pump part. The symptoms that are described so far show loss of coolant and a waterpatch under the car indicates this. The next indicator of a failing waterpump will be a temporary rising of engine temperature. I do agree that this needs checking and investigation, so I stick with my original posting.

I would go with the original plan of getting a proper diagnosis done. It will either be waterpump related or radiator related. The discount on the labour was probably done to the fact that they didn't replace the pump.

No - it depends on who you feel most comfortable with. Skoda can do the service or you can get an independent dealer to do it.

Look to get the AC service done in the next 6 months.

It is all down to the wiring harnesses. The modern MPV skoda cars already have the harnesses installed. It is part of the VW group ease of installation programme that allows for upgrades (and more money for Skoda/VW) long term. They have seen the whole retrofitting thing and want a piece of the action. The Scout needs the wiring harnesses installed, hence the extra cost. The Kodiaq/Krurock/Kameak range already have the wiring built in, so it is plug and play.

This is a quite an interesting fault - assuming first things first - what (if any) error messages from VCDS there are? Battery issues are usually the problem - and it would be good to know if the battery was replaced recently, and if so - was it coded into the car correctly? Sounds like another Skoda dealer being unhelpful.

Sorry - yes, Waterpump and Cambelt are usually done together. The Waterpump is a consumable. Where in the UK are you based? I only ask, because it would be worth having a consultation with an independant VW Specialist first. Your Skoda dealer sounds like mine....not that great, so I have started taking my car to Autohaus in Edinburgh for their attention. So - if you let us know where in the UK you are based, we - the Briskoda collective - can point you in the right direction of a decent garage.

Sounds all fairly normal to me. Just out of sheer curiosity, how old is your Superbe? If it over 3 years old, then you might want to get the A/C serviced (usually a re-gas of the R401 and checking relays and cleaning the A/C system itself).

Welcome - I am assuming that you are purchasing a 2.0l TSI engine. You will probably have 6 speed DSG gearbox. What mileage does your car have on it at this time - and it would be really great if you can update your profile to give your car and rough location details.

Okay - so apprechiate that cost is a factor in getting this fixed. I agree with the sentiment that you need to get a VCDS system or ODBEleven to scan your car. With that data, we can see the faults and help diagnostics. Check out the Briskoda list of folk who maybe able to help (for beer money): In terms of the rubber seal, we will need to know the connector part number, then this part number can be cross-referenced with lists of parts associated with your ECU. The seal will tend to only be pennies. Electrically, you might just use some electrical insulation tape on the outside of the connector and protect it in a plastic sandwich bag to protect the connector which will keep things good until you can get the correct seal reinstalled.

Its weird how life works sometimes. So - in the end, I have booked in with Chris - and looking forward to the day-trip to Leeds to get the camera fitted on the 26th. I'll take my safety boots with me into the workshop and see whether Chris is willing to allow me to take photos.

The devil is in the detail here...they changed the Cam-belt and tensioner, but not the waterpump. Quite rightly, Skoda have said that it is a different pulley, but that still does *not* get away from the fact that the waterpump is faulty. I suggest that you firstly check to see if there is a recall here; https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall otherwise you will need to get the waterpump looked at. Its an arse, because whilst you will need to replace the pump anyhow, you will still need to slacken off the cambelt to get to the waterpump. You asked whether it would be possible to determine where the water is coming from. Get the car up onto a ramp and first do an inspect when cold. Then start the car and get it up to temperture. The brown staining from the waterpump area is a good give-away there is a problem. I would also look at bottom of the radiator and the condition of the radiator to make sure you don't have a leak coming from there. Water will generally follow gravity, so the lowest point is where you will need to be looking at for leaks on the coolant system.

Both the TDI's and the TSI's seem to suffer the same waterpump problem. The waterpump and cam-belt must be done at 60k on early MK3's.

ARH - its the waterpump problem again folks. As the original posting is for a 1.4TSI engine; it is urgent that the waterpump and cam-belt be changed ASAP. Its a known weakness on early MK3's. Do not ignore this - the initial loss of coolant is the car's way of saying that the waterpump seals and empeller are failing.

Yes; I might suggest you maybe getting intermittent connection on the accelator actuator (ie accelator pedal). Its electronic and the connectors are not the best (and can be easily kicked). Easy first thing to try is reseating the connector and check to make sure you don't have a loose electrical connection in the connector too. If no good there, then I would suggest a good full tank of Super Diesel and drive it like a thief for a couple of hundred miles (sticking EGR valve or throttlebody). Whilst it is a Diesel, don't be afraid to give it the boot occassionally.