varaderoguy

I would like of echo your sentiments. Skoda Connect is exceptionally poor marketed. It is only there to give passive feedback to Skoda over any issues - but assuming your SE-L also has the function, it can also provide Infotainment Online functions for your connected radio. I would skip one step and go and purchase Skoda Connect Lite - which is far better, plugs into your ODB2 port and gives lots more information about the running of your car; it can also auto-book servicing and you can have fun challenges. Far better. I think the thing you are missing is probably Connect Care - which is the package that gives remote access, tracking, auto-service bookings etc. Full details here: https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/skoda-connect

Having listened to the audio, it sounds a little tappity, but other than that....all good. Did you fill up from somewhere new? When was the last time the timing belt was checked? You could well have a belt that has slipped.

The other way forward is to go to Halfords and go get Colour matched paint there. You will need the colour code (in your spare tyre footwell) and get Halford to make you up a small pot.

One oderty that I experinced with my old 2010 Octavia Scout - was that the Alarm would randomly go off. Turned out to be the proximety sensor inside the car - near the internal curtosy lights. I found a whole load of dust had got into the sensor. Blowing it out and gentily sucking (with a hoover) on the sensor sorted out the problem.

ooohhh...that's not good. Two things possible here: 1) The internal pipe between the front and back has split and ruptured (really bad news) 2) You have a blockage. I remember seeing there was an issue inside the C-Pillar where the pipe burst. Let me see if I can find it and repost back here.

You might want to update your maps - they are from 2015/2016 - we are now on 2020/21 maps!!!! http://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ is your place to download the latest maps from

Thats fairly terrible. The only antidote I can offer is my husband drove that exact spec car as a curtosy car from our dealer in Edinburgh back home. The car DSG gearbox was up down the range like a yoyo and would cause the vehicle to wildly rev before changing up....very un-nerving and really bad MPG from his experience....1/2 a tank of fuel for the 100 mile round trip!!!! (and he is a super careful driver). Things that might need to be looked at: 1) Make sure that air filters and oil are all good and clean 2) Make sure you don't have sticking brake calipers 3) Tyres pressures are all good. Failing that; its back to the dealer to see if there is revised firmware for the ECU / DSG gearbox. If it is a DQ250 or a DQ200 then I would also want to look at performing a service on it as well. @e-Roottoot will also want to tell you about a firmware recall. We have differing opinions here, but the general concenus is check to make sure there are no recalls and I would state that DQ200 box will need a service.

Also - just check that your Sensor (mounted just below the bumper or in the middle of grill - is CLEAN!!! because if it gets too dirty, then it will stop working.

Okay - I'll try and answer some of these questions: 1) Yes, the suspension on the Scout is very much different. It is described by Skoda as the Rough Road suspension - and is an option on a SE-L 4x4 spec Octy. The ride height is 10mm heigher than a standard suspension Octy. 2) The standard Scout suspension is very capable. You definately need a FL Scout (LHD obviosly), but having owned a non-FL and now a FL Scout, I can confirm the suspension is much...much better. 3) On the non-FL variants on the Scout (which had a 6 speed manual), you could toe a LOT. 2000kgs braked, 750kgs non-breaked. On a DSG gearbox Scout [standard on FL], it is 1800kgs braked and 680kgs non-braked. 4) Sadly cannot commend on ARB mounts....sorry. PS....A Scout can be fun....but it is more waffty. Really see if you can get your hands on a 186BHP Scout (because they are SOOOO much better than the 150bhp variants).

Here to help in the Scottish Borders if needed.

The only time I have ever heard this kind of thing was in two areas: 1) If the edge of the speaker cone has seperated itself from the support, backing or magnet. 2) If the speaker is wired up the wrong way and instead of pushing out sound in the correct direction, is sucking in the speaker - which will cause distortion, a 180 degree phase issue in the stereo image and ultimately, destroying of the speaker itself.

Just out of interest, if you are in a hard water area then the nossles will have a tendeancy to fur up more readily than soft water areas. I suggest that maybe more concentrated screenwash or descalent

Okay. A bit more involved in that case. My fault @linni but it is good to know that there is more going on under the bonnet that is shown outwardly.

I wouldn't loose too much sleep - offroad mode doesn't do that much other than disable auto-stop/start. If you have a scout - it does activate some of the hill-decent stuff internal to the gearbox, but other than this, its all the same as a standard SE spec.

Big thumbs up for @nidza because the 4x4 system is not infalable. When it is snowy or very wet/greasy, the haldex system will only kick-in under very specific circumstances [which they don't tell you in any blurb]. In most cases, the stablation control system will try and remove power from the drive wheels first and generally the haldex system will only kick-in if it looses traction on power delivery. The Haldex system should generally be looked at as a 2 wheel drive - with 4 wheel traction if needed [especially the Haldex 5 system]. Haldex 3 and 4 - tend to have 30% and 10% permanent drive. Interesting reference:

Oooohhhh....be super careful here. That Fishy smell you are experiencing is R420 gas from the A/C system and you should not be experiencing this. I think the reason is that there is a leak in the low-pressure side of the system and when the A/C is not on, it will leak refrigeant into the cabin. Can I suggest you get an car a/c expert on the case - and check the pressure and see if you have a leak?

There is also a firmware update for the HEX-V2 as part of 20.4.2

Yes - and the injectors are different to, but the core of the cylinder block unit is roughly the same. Oddly enough, the TDI 272 is still available for some cars - the SUV range and the Superbe. I would really like to see a TDI272 (dual turbos) in a VRS 4x4 in an Octavia!

The TDI-190 engine is harder to find and from reading the Skoda Media Room outlets info, it seems that Skoda struggled to make the TDI190 engine Euro 6b compliant, so it got canned. Ive owned a 150 and a two lots of 190 engine beasts. The 190 is a far better engine - and if you can find a manual - offers the same MPG as the 150 engine (depends on your right foot). The TDI150 engine can seem unrefined; the latest generation of the TDI150 - is better (they revised the pistons to make it a lot more revvy and more spirited); but like most diesels (unless you have a VRS-TDI190), they are not that keen to rev. If get-up-and-go is really your thing, I would go and look at a 2.0TSI petrol engined beast instead.

I use a retrimmer in Edinburgh called Thomas Kelly Car Trimmers - who operates out of a unit in Slateford. He was brilliant - does Car and Motorcycle seat retrimming and repairs.

I had this issue with my VRS when I went to CZ last year and it was 38C driving around Prague. The car will start injecting additional fuel into the mixture due to evaporation; you will also find that stop/start maybe disabled during this period too. Its perfectly normal - the car is doing what is meant to do.

You stated that the car had been serviced. Was this done by an official Skoda dealer? Did you last have a major or minor service? Poor performance or flatspots could be caused by a number of things, but if the car is not showing any errors on VCDS, then I would be looking at personally inspecting all of the filters at this point. Especially the air-filter. Is the car smoking under heavy acceleration? The other thing that you mentioned which is that the car has been driven very carefully in your time whilst you had it. As much as it might pain you, you will need to give the car a good long, fast run occasionally - keep the car in a lower gear / higher revs. The car should also be running on decent branded fuel with fuel adatives (no supermarket fuels) - you might want to consider a tank of super-unleaded. So - check the following: 1) Fuel filter 2) Air Filter 3) Spark plugs (they should be decent iridiums - and if not change them to decent iridiums) - check the colour of the plug. If it is black and sooty, the car is running rich, if it is ice-white, your car is running too lean. Check the gap.

If the ECU detects it hasn't got any cooling services available to it due to a faulty valve then that is quite a different issue from no coolant liquid being available. It is still a critical error.

I am assuming standard Hallogen bulbs and not HID or aftermarket kit or anything like that. We really need a fault code that start with either a P, B, C or U to help diagnose. See if there is somebody here with a ODBEleven or VCDS near you.

You have an exhaust leak - what you are hearing is back-pressure from the Cat. It will need attention.