Monkhai

I would change the air filter as I would say it’s due. That will be different to the official Skoda line no doubt. I use Skoda or Mann Filter. Whilst that will give a slight improvement in mpg and generally allow the engine to work more cleanly, I doubt it is all if it. The mpg seems a bit high to me, but temperature and many other things can affect that. Was the car at or above 1000rpm then? If so I do suspect something in the emissions control systems causing dpf regeneration. When the oil was changed was it with VW507 and not anything else? VW507 must be used on all dpf cars as it is low ash.

Thread from the dead... Although on reading I remembered that on the mk2 I had under warranty a leak which came from the radiator which had cracks that opened up at higher temperatures. It just dumped all the coolant one day. I seem to remember the original version of 2.0 tdi also had issues with porous heads which allowed small amounts of coolant into the cylinders.

That's low, the fuel filter isn't due until about 80k miles, so I would think that is one of the last places to look unless the car was sat for a long time with a part full tank and bacteria built up in the tank. That however would show up as other problems. That sounds like it. If you're doing a lot of town driving it may never clear. The shell is fine, but when I tried a couple of tanks, I found whilst it claimed to be cleaner I got slightly worse MPG from it than from the standard shell Diesel. Worth a shot, but you're talking a couple of mpg, not big differences. If you're even slightly competent with a screwdriver then an air filter is easy to do and at 40k miles if it hasn't been done (Unlikely) then it is due a change. Was it replaced as unless you're billed for it, it's not included in a major service until about 60,000 miles. Has that tank of fuel been in the car over lockdown? Has the car battery had a good charge, either through a long run on the motorway etc or on a charger? Again it's a case of trying to narrow things down. Also did the dealer do a scan with your sevice? Same goes if you have or know anyone with VCDS, as that might be able to give some clues.

- Use regular diesel from a reputable brand - Put a new air filter in, it's simple and not going to hurt and a blocked one will certainly increase MPG - Winter diesel or diesel with extra life preservatives in it can cause slightly lower MPG As above how many miles, the fuel filter does make a notable difference, but not as big as above. When I changed mine, I found it easier to get a couple of extra MPG and potentially a bit more responsive/quieter. Certainly nothing like you're seeing and that was at 70-80k miles. Have you checked the temperature sensors? Have the DPF and it's sensors been checked? If the car thinks it's cold, even when it is not, then it will use more fuel. Ditto if the DPF thinks it needs to regen. Check the oil level and see if it goes up. If it does (unlikely) then regens are going on, getting intereupted and the extra fuel is ending up in oil. I will add, I don't think it's a common on VW engines, but I know it happened on other brands.

The new schedule looks like a rather big price hike when you look at an inspection every year

There is a setting under the sat nav options to disable it. Audi versions can talk but mute when on the phone, but the Skoda/Seat versions seem too dumb to cope with it, so I muted mine.

Just found the other extreme, which is the honeywell ecohome with a series of 6 radiator TRV, which would do well for the whole house control.... So I guess I either go super simple or go all out and pay someone to do the fitting if the parts needed are inside the boiler and require a gas safe person to comply with the law.

No but it needs another zigbee to ethernet bridge.. I've already got two zigbee to ethernet bridges in the house and if hive needs another one, I can't be bothered. I'm trying to get rid of the zigbee bridges I already have not add more. Currently I have the boiler on 24/7 and have a Honeywell CM907/927 that does temperature changes 6 times a day to reach a heat profile. The only advantage of a smart thermometer for me, is to be able to easily change the programme times via an app rather than on the device itself as the seasons change. Hive just adds too many components to the mix for me, as I currently have one (Wierd so no receiver) and I don't really want to go to three. Does anyone know of a single package inline mains powered (not a plug), live switching thermostat, which has wifi programmable times? Not fussed about the fancy geolocation etc.

Thanks. No point doing that, I only have so many power points by ethernet ports, so it looks like hive is out. It's a shame as they could easily make a smart stat that connects to wifi and had a 240v to 12v transformer in it allowing the switched live systems most UK houses have. Never mind, will do a bit of digging at the other options out there as well as the programmable stats that you can programme from an app.

Our stat has decided it's always 21 degrees, so considering these two and thought I might as well tag the question onto this thread. Can somebody answer the following for me: 1) Does the hive require me to install the receiver where the exiting stat is and move everything around wirelessly or can I get a version that just wires up to the boiler? 2) Do I need to keep a hue bridge and a Hive bridge if I want to use the hue app, or can I just use a single one of the hive/hue bridge for both? I'm not keen on google for their data slurping, but at the same time, nest seems relatively more simple as long as you can wire in (or get wired in) the receiver box correctly. (That being the question). Thoughts welcome.

Your usb has 4 wires... you need to split a cable behind the dash so that the day lines go to the head unit, and the power comes from the usb charger. The problem with this is that most of the time you need to use the data lines to enable faster charging. So one way or another, you will need to send both lines to both devices. I am sure this is fairly easily done with the diodes or a relay and a fake load on the head unit. You just need to be able to get both to do so for the data for the power negotiations and then pass it to the head unit. Read the usb specs and lash something up, or use something that already exists potentially with more wires.

Anyone got one and if so what are your thoughts? they seem to have a capacity about 50% larger than most others of the same size and currently around half the price of an equivalent Bosch.