Monkhai

The SUV e-tron, rolled and was horrible to drive (IMHO). It rolled like a hydropneumatic suspension equipped citroen with worn out spheres or an LHM leak. As this is an etron-GT, as saloon rather than a SUV, I am hoping it doesn't live up to it's french name. EDIT: For those who were confused, look up the french word étron. The first etron was an SUV body shell and many found it was a horrible rolling ride. My earlier statement is that I am hoping the lower slung saloon (not SUV) version handles better. Original etron: https://www.audiusa.com/us/web/en/models/e-tron/e-tron/2021/overview.html New etron-GT: https://www.audi.co.uk/e-tron-gt.html Summary of the three types here: https://www.audi.co.uk/content/audiadaptive/en/e-tron.html

The question for me will be does it drive like the original étron, which IMHO certainly drove like one. Here is hoping, but then I think the marketing department should probably fix the whole etron brand too.

I use a wheel tree , but before I had one I used to use a slatted wooden shelf, make sure they were inflated and rotate them about once a month. The rim adds weight for sure, so is probably more likely to cause sidewall/flat spot damage than empty.

It was a tank from the most powerful engine in a mk1 or the earliest mk 2 tt I think. I remember coming across the diagrams when investigating mine, looking at the tank as an option and being told by a dealer it wasn’t worth it. They showed one in an old tt. At a guess I would say between 2008 and 2014, but I sadly can’t remember exact dates.

The oldest design I saw had two cylinders which pressed into clips on the bottom of the tank. Come some defined point or if they ran out they could be removed and replaced with new ones. Odd that that tank pictures states g12 not g12+/++ etc though.

Egr cooler if it has one? Have you tried a UV marker for the coolant to see where it is leaking from (if you don’t already know) If you know where the coolant is going it will help to work out what is going on.

your view on that will probably depend on if you’re an engineer or accountant...

That was used in a tt I think and they can be replaced too. You could buy the parts to change the two cylinders. It’s not new, but old, possibly the original design.

360 degree walk around of the car recording video on the phone should do it...

You would be surprised as they can look fine but still be falling apart.. A new quality filter is a cheap test for those still having the problem.

Ahh my mistake I misread the original comment 👍

Thread revival but... Interestingly the higher NOx from diesels is often blamed (in part) on the higher compression... I wonder how NOx emissions compare. Does anyone have any updates to this thread as I am debating going all electric or a 272etc as a last bit of fun..

So a brief update... Gas consumption per day since installation day is approximately 20-30% lower than that from the last few gas bills. Not been cold bar the first few days where we were testing/tweaking until the temperatures were set correctly in the rooms. Considering that’s two cold months vs a mix over the last three quarterly bills I am more than happy that the system will more than pay for itself quite quickly. 👍

I would speak to a seat repair company. You will be able to get the foam changed for example to memory foam. Bolsters softened or reduced and any other tweaks you might want can be discussed. You can get one of both done and best of all they will match the rest of the car still. Dirt cheap, no but probably not much worse than a swap and the end result will probably better. Also far cheaper than swapping the car/wife and you don’t have to store the old seats for resale time.

I assumed he already had the roof ones from when the takes the mobile target on the tow bar and the bikes. Obviously if not then yes a tow bar fitting would be my choice, but a good one isn't cheap these days.

I would imagine you will save less on fuel than you will spend on an alternative bike carrier, lights and rear reg plate EDIT: As it's not a guide, I've moved the thread to what I think is the right place, so you should get more answers

Thanks, Did you just need to supply 12v plus ground? Just wondering if the box does 12 to 5 or otherwise. would be interesting to see if newer cars get a 5/9/12v or even step up usb c option. That could open up 12v at >3A or a full usb c PD to say 60 or even 100W. Perfect for charging the laptop etc on the road ..

Clue is in the name... they didn’t call it an external combustion engine, so clearly it’s meant to be inside 😂😉🙄🙄🙄

Do the beige come with dark floors these days? If the carpets are beige no way, if they are dark they maybe but the points above about marking/less desirable in the used market are pretty accurate IMHO.

Don’t suppose you have pictures of the wires for the Skoda USB do you?

Moved to the MK3 superb section as you'll probably get better answers in there

Get more milk/cider/beer/wine... You absolutely don’t drink a lot, you’re just keeping the fridge door right 👍 Other option might be to use some of the high density plastic packing foam the fridge came in to fashion a wedge

Perhaps it is also worth adding an option for those who do not have a problem too? To the OP, I have added some additional options for those who don’t have issues. Hopefully they’re in line with what you were asking. I’ve also opened the thread up for comments. 👍

This thread may help

Does it claim to help reduce friction or make any seemingly too good to be true claims? I think the VW one is a fully synthetic oil and fixed viscosity. I can’t remember but 75 rings a bell, The one I used in my mk2 was a really good oil and met the correct standard but was 75w-80 or 75w-90. As I said that caused similar problems to yours which all went away with the correct oil from the main dealer.