Monkhai

we double stack the door bins, so you form a zig zag from front to back and left to right.

I could be wrong, but I think you can actually remove that trim piece that they don't show being removed and access the screw to tighten it without the door card being removed. The bottom clip is a pain to get back in and it's far easier to actually take the card off, but I am sure I ended up doing that. Either way, it's fairly straight forward, just make sure you have a spare pack of trim clips for the back of the door card. If you're in there, you can also check the seal around the metal plate and make sure that's not leaking. It all comes down to how much you value your time vs £75. Both are cheaper than a new mirror and glass EDIT: The car in the video is a MK2, you've posted in the MK3. If it's a MK3, then ignore everything I just said as I was replying about the MK2.

Estate or Hatch, as they have different plumbing? I assume it's a hatch, at which point the obvious are: -Check the boot for floor, sides and rear lid water/damp, pipes can freeze and blow open connectors -Check the motor, it usually takens longer than 3 years, but the insides of the wiper can rust out as the seals inside leak and cause things to rust, causing problems. (Usually this is with the wiper not the wash, but I have seen a wash pipe filled with rust/scuzz. Theyre the obvious ones.

I believe we need a new post vote icon...

Make sure you have pictures of your car showing no damage as well, as you will sadly find a number of people who try it on. Lucky you had the dash cam and if it is a case of somebody making it up, make sure you notify their/your insurance company and furnish yours with the video. If it's as you say then it's attempted insurance fraud and sadly far too common these days.

As I said.... In terms of the regulations, I did note you're new and hence point you at the rules in the site guidelines. Worth a read

If you're thinking of organising a group buy, then please start the thread in the correct place at the correct time. If you're looking to sell stickers, then there are rules around that in the site guidelines found here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/guidelines/ For now I'm going to treat it as a general thread to see if there is any interest, but if it looks like it's becoming a sale thread it will be removed.

Moved to Octaivia MK II area, as you'll probably get more responses in there.

Just as an FYI, i looked on the liquid Moly site and they do not list the skoda octavia mk3 (2015) in their product selector. The closest oil I could find was for a mk2 with manual gearbox (5/1), which was this: https://products.liqui-moly.com/top-tec-mtf-5100-75w-7.html?___store=limo_b2b_com_en&___from_store=limo_b2b_com_en Whilst that meets some VW standards, they may not be the same as your car needs and if they do not there is a real risk of premature failure of the gearbox. I would have a look and find what specific VW standard your car needs (May be in the manual) and then if your existing oil is not correct, purchase the correct oil and drain/replace the oil. If nothing else it will have been a gearbox oil flush, but the longer you drive it with the wrong oil, the greater the risk of damage.

You need to care more about the grade of the gear oil... As an example: These are some of the VW grades: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-743-vw.aspx These are the grades for a 2015 2.0TDI (110kw) - Different ones for different gearboxes: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/f/706233/24340/2015/gearbox-oil.aspx EDIT: You will see the specifications on each oil: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-184755-febi-bilstein-75w-gearbox-oil-manual-transmission-fluid-gl-4-21829.aspx?VariantID=296272&vehicleid=24340&yearfilter=2015&providerpartid=47168633&genericpartid=3225&providerpartlinkid=411846725&partsgroupid=706233&genericpartname=Manual Transmission Oil You need to make sure the oil have the correct VW specification for your gearbox.

I think they've both got their ups and down. If it's the 1.6 TDCI, I don't like them at all... google reveals their issues. The 2.0 depending on which version and the injection system, emmisions controls depends on how it is. I mean lets be honest, it's a diesel, but more important than if it's a TDCI/VAG engine, is probably if it's been looked after properly as you suggest

Honestly never heard of that... ours had a fairly standard cam belt and a good 100k Mike/10 year interval . Both far better than the equivalent VW range at the time. I would guess like VW people don’t do the tensioner at the same time and problems occur. One thing to be aware of is that the 1.8TDCI ECU limited torque at the bottom end of the revs to protect the DMF so it was a bit more petrol like to drive. In a focus is was a great engine imho 👍

Having run many many nokian winter tyres and then these on 205/55/r16 over probably 15 years, these and the Nokian WR A3 are probably on par. The Michelin whilst more expensive are easier to source and do seem to hold their grip well (Like the A3, both have new tread/sipes that appear with wear). I agree they're very good and I'd have them again. I had put cross climate on for summers and decided to leave them on this year, as there was so little driving, but frankly they're not a patch on the Alpin 6 on slush, ice or cold tarmac. Obviously nothing without studs is great on polished ice, but they're as good as anything else without studs.

I ended up going to the Skoda dealer supplied oil and have to be honest was very surprised when it made everything smooth again. I don't know what the spec is for the MK3, but it wouldn't hurt to make sure you are using the right oil, or just go and get some from the local main dealer.

Regarding the oil when you changed, which oil did you use? On a mk2 I found that aftermarket oil (Which usually was very good) just didn't seem to get on with the box and caused slightly rough gear changes. Drained and back to VW oil and all was fine. Other than that and checking that the clutch is bled, I'm not sure I have anything useful to add sadly.

When posting, please post in English. Thanks

I don't know the rapid, but my first port of call would always be to check the lines to the fuel filter and to check fuel filter housings for leaks. Also check the fuel delivery lines and anywhere fuel would flow, including pumps, to make sure there are no leaks. TBH as it's petrol, I would be getting an opinion from a second garage as well. I assume you're confident it's your car and not a cold car in front generating the petrol smell or something else?

Thread moved to Rapid section, as you'll likely get more answers here.

There was an old engine from the mk 1 fabia too, can’t for the life of me remember which one though.

There was an engine which had piston ring issues that drank oil, but I can’t remember if it was the 1.2 or 1.4 and it was only one of the 8v or 16v. The other version was solid as, if a little dull.

Are you the original owner as some people installed a hidden OBD2, or an off switch, such that the car could still be diagnosed, but couldn't have new keys programmed on the sly by a thief. It was more BMW and other premium cars, which were subject to theft by smashing a window out of view of the alarm, then programming new keys via OBD port, opening the car, driving off and doing what they wanted.

What is the part number on the coolant tank. Some of the earlier tanks had the silicate in a tube or bag between two walls, so it doesn't just float there like a tea bag in some of the later ones. That material looks like rust, but do the metal bits stick to a magnet? Was it sandy in texture as that might give a clue to other possible causes. There's a lot of aluminium in the system also, so you do have to be careful on using the correct coolant too.

So coming late to the game...... Define better, becuase with the same power consumption something has to give between cost, life and brightness... Generally in my experience: - The +30% bulbs have a decent extra chunk of light at an only slightly reduced life - The +50% bulbs had a bit more light again, but at a noticably shorter life and higher cost - The + 80% bulbs really didn't seem any brigher than the +50, but were definately very short on the life vs standard bulbs. - The long life bulbs were the same or marginally brigher, but did last a very long time. Cheap bulbs were generally naff, as the filaments had been build to a price, but OEM quality bulbs were fine. H7 are definely brighter than H4 in my book, as you have two dedicated bulbs not 1. Keeping the lenses clean is important too. On the MK2 OCty I found them excellent, then had an issue after some work, but took them to be properly adjusted and made sure the height adjustment motors worked. After that they were great again. Still I ended up with a Xenon equiped headlight set on the next car (Factory fitted not aftermarket). I used to like the osram silverstar and the phillips vision+, but that is going back a few years.

VMs... development etc?

Read up on chain tensioners.....