superbdreams

perhaps see if there is a carista forum that can help? I think the lack of response is due to the extensive reliance on vcds here.

And if you are rich you can try taking them to court to honour the signed agreement. you will lose.

I have zero trust in the Gloucestershire / Bristol Skoda dealers so if i get the notice it will be ignored.

I assume you are referring to the superb without the sound system? I had to turn the bass down on mine with the sound system.

remove the led bulbs from the boot lid, leave them out. lock the car and wait some time ( others may be able to say how long the can bus takes to release a short circuit fault) 30 mins should be ample. open the car and see if everything else has come back to life. If so the new bulb was causing a short on the contacts and you may also have a shorted diode in the bulb housing. I posted a thread on how to check / replace this some years back.

read this https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/Blog/vw-part-numbers-explained/

does anyone have any thoughts on the reliability of this combination in the superb? particularly with regard voice text receiving and sending?

Before I choose a samsung S10 mobile phone - can anyone tell me if bixby DOES enable you to send a text using your voice only when connected to the columbus via bluetooth? Can you initiate one or just reply to one. is bixby reliable? any other pointers please. BTW I have tried android auto and it is not reliable, you must have VLC running all the time for it to work and even then often you can not hear the announcements that a text has arrived. Shame that windows phone worked flawlessly in this regard and was abandoned.

I have been able to use that site in the past but could not log in this year. I have now discovered why - this is their terms Our forum policy bans 0 posts Inactive Members after one year period of inactivity So using that site to get map updates will require new username and email address each time. What are the other sites that you mention?

I consider that the countless hours i have devoted to helping others on this site should entitle me to free freedom. the dsg oil change post alone took more than double the time it should have because i measured - colour coded and photographed every relevant bolt part and torque setting required. As for supporting the site, the amount of advertising and cookie tracking must be quite lucrative, Dont get me wrong I do value the site and people like you and langers,dipp. chimera, silver to name but a few make this site the success it is.

Mine has done this from new and i am convinced that it is the compressor. The tinkling metalic sound stops instantly the AC is turned off.

I have seen you promote freedom on a previous post, are you affiliated with this site in some way Rustynits?

the battery module is constantly monitoring the state of the battery and adjusting the charge to it accordingly. Fitting a new battery without coding means the new battery is not going to be charged fully as the module can not know there is now extra capacity.

I have Now completed the first (40,000 mile) oil change on my 6 speed dsg box I will attach some pictures and information that may help others tempted to do the same though I have seen a recent post that stated they have been quoted £175 at a garage to do it so at that price it may not be worthwhile. For me there was little choice as Blade group will never get their hands on a vehicle of mine ever again. I purchased a " Sealey VS70095 Transmission Oil Filling System 3ltr instead of the vag6262 tool. " (use text between quotes to search) which cost me £69.49 (can be done cheaper without a pump but its slower) I purchased " 1 x Genuine VW DSG Gearbox Oil And Filter Kit (G052182A2, 02E305051C, N910845) from "Lancaster volkswagon" at a cost of £111.92 I already own Vcds (£270) So without going any further - if you can get it done for £175 then do it as even now I have the required equipment It will still cost £112 and a couple of hours of my precious snoozing time in another 40,000 miles time. Still interested...here we go then. I couldn't find an online video of a skoda superb dsg oil change but I did find a very good video of a vw model from a site covering their turbo diesel ( or was it "myturbodiesel" wink wink) search for this "How to change and drain the DSG transmission fluid in your VW w/ VAG6262" and select videos. The car needs to be level but there seems no where to measure the levelness of the superb so I measured the drive level and made blocks of wood to sit under three of the wheels. The oil would drain easier if warm but unless its the depths of winter I wouldn't worry about this too much, the oil is not very viscous. Step 1. jack one side of the car up slightly so that you can reach the furthest and middle of three TX45 screw that holds the engine drip tray up, remove those three tx45's and 8 TX20 (torx size 20) around the edge. (put the 11 screws in the tray and put it somewhere where you can trip over it and send the screws flying) Step 2 Identify the DSG box oil drain plug and slightly loosen it. do not remove it yet You need a size 14mm hex drive and a long ratchet or torque driver I have rung it here in green for you. (viewed from car front) Step 3. Lower the car, lift the bonnet and disconnect the battery . 2 @10mm Pull the battery fleece off (if fitted) Undo the battery retaining clamp. 1@13mm and remove the battery ( the battery tray has lips at the nearside edge so if leaning over the wing, lift and push away from you to disengage. Step 4 Remove the electrical connector from the air cleaner pipe and the smaller rubber pipe. The connector has a small grey peg at the side of it, pull this peg up slightly and then hold it against the connector as you pull it up. Step 5 remove the air inlet pipe from the air cleaner assembly Remove the top of the air filter box and take out the air filter. You now need to remove the lower part of the air filter housing, it is held down by two rubber push on nipples ( highlighted yellow on the 2nd picture below) and one TX30 screw (coloured green 1st pic below) and the air pipes. There is also a ribbed drain tube that goes down through the engine bay to the void in front of the wheel. it is connected to nothing so just pull it up and free. It will make sense when you do it yourself but it requires a yank upwards to lift the filter housing off the nipples and then twisting with the right hand side up in the air so that you can release the left hand U shaped tube. Step 6 Remove the battery tray, it has two 10mm bolts situated under where the battery would be (green and labelled here) and a 13mm bolt above the right hand rubber nipple for the air filter assy. In the picture above you can see the rust marks where this bolt was (just below the red wires) You can now see and easily get to the Dsg filter...It has a 24mm nut shape in the top of it and it is a one piece dome of plastic that is torqued up to 23NM. (My torque wrench starts at 48NM) As its unlikely you will have a torque wrench capable of measuring such a low value it would be wise to mark the top at say 6 o'clock and count the revolutions as you undo it. It is sealed with an O'ring so does not want to be overtightened. Clean around the filter case and then unscrew the cap, very little oil will spill if any at all. You will now see the filter which can be removed by pulling up, have a suitable container nearby to put it in as it is full of old oil. Put the new O'ring on to the cover, smear some oil around it and on the rubber gasket of the new filter and re fit both. Step 7 Re fit all the parts you have just removed apart from the engine tray and sump plug. Spend a moment looking down at the dsg filter cover and come to the conclusion that it should be possible (next time) to replace the filter without removing all this stuff, depends how strong your grip is but I will try that next time. Step 8 Drain and Fill By now the car has resettled after having been jacked up and as it is now back down you have limited room to work underneath, this is why you loosened the drain plug as it is too difficult to do later. Get a suitable container to drain the old oil into, I used an old 15kg tile adhesive bucket with an internal diameter of 280mm cut down to 130mm (the old oil filled to a height of 100mm) Put the container under the drain plug and ....blah blah blah Some oil will come out but not that much, not until you get your 8mm hex drive and undo the snorkel....let it drain.. then replace the snorkel. The VAG kit and the sealey have the correct size adapter to screw into the Dsg box and the sealey has a quick fit push connector and isolating valve so you waste less oil when passing the filling tube down through the engine. The sealey says it holds 3 litres, it either doesn't or my new bottles of oil were overfilled, not that important so just fill it up and pump it in. you need to keep adding oil until it spills back out through the snorkel ( you did re fit the snorkel didn't you?!) check for overspill at approx. 4.5 litres pumped in. Once it starts trickling back out you can connect the Vcds and start the car, as the video shows -pass through each selector position pausing for a few seconds and then back to park. as the oil warms it will expand and you will see more draining out , on Vcds select control modules, dsg automatic transmission and then measuring blocks and click the top left up arrow to get to block 19 , here you will see the dsg oil temp and when that reaches 35c you can turn off the engine andput the sump plug back in, torque up to 45nm Re fit engine tray and rejoice (hide those three extra bolts leftover...bound to be ok without them huh?)