adurer

Oh, now I see why I couldn't get those #ing pins out and my hair got slightly gray... I don't know the manufacturer, ETKA serial for the female plug is 191972734. I believe it is used on many VAG cars. Sorry for keeping you awake.

Thanks for reply. Is the tool looking like this? I thought the pin looks like this: So it's definitely a double-tab pin?

So I have this rubber boot cracked (see photo) and need to replace it. The manual says I need first to remove all pins from the plug shown below. I inserted a thin flat screwdriver below pin (arrow) and pulled the wire but nothing happened. I tried also above pin. I even tried with two screwdrivers simultaneosly. Nada. Zip. I know it's embarrasing not to solve it myself, but that little bugger is in a place hard to reach, so I'm almost doing it by feel. What is the secret? Do you have a photo of a pin?

Thank you for reply, Ken. All solutions make sense in general. Let's discuss which one is more probable to cure BCG. A very good solution in theory, but not applicable to Felicia without changing caliper design. Furthermore there are no such pads, not to mention that if they stick to piston, it will be very hard to remove them when they are worn. Felicia doesn't have such shims, but has steel wires attached to pads. Problem is they only cure high pitch vibrations, not BCG. Now this is a good one. We all know what rust does to pistons and from what I have read, BCG is not present in new shiny cars, but as soon as they rust a bit. I already did that, but didn't help for BCG. Again it's only good to cure high pitch noises. I was expecting that to be a solution. I will surely investigate more before buying my next brake pads. Meaning I will address BCG problem to manufacturers and I will ask about it on foreign Felicia forums (Czech, Polish, Romanian, Russian). I presume we're talking about the anti-splash shield. Well... I wouldn't go that far because that shield protects not only against dirt and/or water, but also against rocks on unpaved roads. Yes, the shield can resonate, but we have to cure the initial source of BCG. Bottom line, I will polish the pistons of calipers just to see if that makes a difference till they start to rust again. I will also check for better pads.

That is exactly the situation when the groan is most annoying. The only thing that makes me live with it is there are more expensive cars that have it too. New Toyota Prius owners yelled in vain for a solution because they got BS answers like 'it's the brakes recuperative system' (aka we will not issue another comeback after throttle pedal disaster), American car owners are told it's good to have BCG because it's a reassuring sound meaning 'you still have brakes' and so on. I am curious if Felicia original buyers had BCG with factory discs/pads...

I know deep inside they envy us, Skoda owners, but they're doomed to stick to their fancy cars with seats massaging gently their royal balls while driving. Now seriously, there are tons of forum topics for BMW, Toyota, Audi, etc that show people's concern over this low comfort issue. I have just read an article that explains in a rather rigorous scientific language how the BCG noise is created. In short it is called the Stick Slip excitation mechanism and I quote: Coming back to Earth, I wonder if: 1) Changing pads brand does make a difference ? 2) Changing rims helps dampening the noise?

Yeah, BCG is definitely coming from brake pads - rotor friction / vibration that resonates through caliper, wheel hub and struts. Some car manufacturers state it's normal (aka we don't bother finding a solution, the car owner has stress issues).

It should be the 13th from the left, 30A, green.

Definition: brakes creep-groan (BCG from now on) is that low frequency noise coming from brakes when your car is on a slope and you're lightening your foot on the brake to let the car roll very slowly with the brakes still engaged. BCG is present on many cars, even on expensive ones. The noise is quite annoying giving the impression you're not driving a car but a rusty old wheelbarrow. So my question is this: did anyone find a cure to this problem?

Usually it's the windscreen not sealing well from various reasons such as: corrosion, old windscreen seal, windscreen cracks, body frame bent from crashes, etc. Solution: clean rust, new seal, resin, sealant. Sorry for my bad spelling in previous post. It's assess, not asses stupid me..

When the light is lit, open relay/fuse panel and wiggle all wires, relays, fuses, press board, etc. and see if the light goes off. Use a bright flashlight to asses corrosion, peeled wires, moisture.

I see two solutions to your issue: - use a level to check floor then seat - measure the length of your arms If you're a giver, the right hand will be longer. If you're a taker, your left hand will be longer. If they are equal length, you're Scottish. But as you said, things might be different in countries where people drive on the wrong side of the road

It is just you.

Not sure what to think about it because you didn't show the photo of your spring cup. I assume it was not new in which case the title of your topic should be "look what happened to my tyre because I let my spring cup rust to flakes".

This is how it should look like. I remember having to insert one more O-ring into that gasket to keep the cap from rattling.

When did you change your brake fluid last time? What about your power steering fluid? Have a look in HERE too.

When the reset trip button is pushed, aside of zeroing all wheels the trip meter is mechanically disengaged from speedometer/odometer mechanism. You can keep the button pushed as long as you want while moving, no gears will be smashed. The dealer probably referred to a driving safety issue, since people reached for the reset button through steering wheel spokes and caught their hand or were not able to steer suddenly.

Ok, they binned it, although in here mechanics keep faulty parts in case clients want to see them for whatever reason and only then they bin them. So what part failed? Disc? Bearing? Plate? All?

Try to take some photos of old clutch kit. That might prove useful for other members.

"Push to break" or better said normally closed.

Open circuit... this means either the very remote scenario proves to be true (both door switches failed) or their wiring has no continuity. Take switches out, check if pin 1 (brown wire) goes to ground. If OK, uncover bottom left or right A pillar area and look for a 6-pin connector. At pin 6 (brown/white wire) both door switches (pins #3) meet. Check wiring all the way to interior lamp connector and also to instruments cluster PCB (yellow connector, pin 4, blue wire).

One last check: door switches. We'll do that at interior lamp connector (see photo). First you need to check if pin 1 is connected to ground. Connect the ohmmeter between pin 1 and a known good ground. Then connect the ohmmeter between pin 3 and pin 1 and open/close front doors in turn to see if you have continuity when one door is opened and the other is closed.

I had a bit of free time and decided to help you all the way. Here is how things work: the photo shows the OFF position. When you flip the lamp lens to middle position (on when door open), the right plastic tab slides and pushes only spring contact 2 against DOOR SWITCH pin. When you flip the cover lens to always ON position, the right plastic tab slides more and pushes also spring contact 1 to ground pin. You have to ensure you have free sliding movement of those plastic tabs and that lamp lens pushes them easily. Some grease could help also to those cover lens pegs serving as 'hinge'. On buzzer malfunction part: is it not buzzing no matter which door you open with side/headlights on?

It is a pita to set the right amount of tension on those contacts. When I took the photos of my lamp, I had to figure out how VW designed it to work. I was one step away to add a 3-position rocker switch and get rid of that factory 'switch' mess. Identify the pins of lamp connector and use an ohmmeter to check proper operation. You can change the bulb with a 10W one while doing that. Fiat lux!

No, they are not model/engine specific. But Fordfan might have a point (see photo below). If you happen to take out the PCB of your dashboard, please take high resolution, well lit, well focused photos of both faces. Skoda keeps Felicia instrument cluster schematics in a safe About door contact(s): not so sure if both door contacts are broke. It's not impossible to fail both on their own, just very remote.