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This one of those things where Skoda opted for a cheap, unreliable design. You need to take out the lamp and bend the flat spring contacts inside (arrow). R6 'relay' has the warning buzzer inside. If R6 seems to be missing... guess what? No buzzer. All Felicia cars have it installed afaik.

There is a very well documented topic about HCS in here: Hydrocarbon Cracking System There are many concerns answered, photos of installation and statistic results. Fuel economy varies between 30 - 50 % with a noticeable increase in power. Edostar made us a favor and condensed the most important up to date information.

There's no need of any thermostat. The exhaust manifold gets VERY hot in 30 seconds. The IC engines produce enough excess heat, it's part of their inefficiency. That's part of the beauty of HCS, it puts to good use wasted heat and blow-by gases.

Gasoline does 'explode' only in movies. You need vapors and a spark to ignite it. Do gasoline vapors explode in our fuel tanks? Vapor amount taking 'too much space' is a nonsense to say the least. We're talking gases, not boxes in a wardrobe. Air intake is not restricted. By adding unmetered hydrogen, the oxygen sensor will sense a rich condition and will cut from the fuel injected. The mix of methane resulting from thermal cracking and gasoline has a higher octane than the most refined petrol on the market. So no self-detonation. Carbon residue may form only if heating tube is too cold (the tube not wound tight over exhaust and not insulated from elements)

Do the wet compression test after squirting a little engine oil on top of the pistons. If you can, do a leak down test too.

No problem. One last check for peace of mind. Do a parasitic draw test like so: ignition key off, remove battery positive cable and insert an ampmeter in series (negative lead to cable you disconnected and positive lead to positive battery post). The measured current should be less than 25 mA. Don't forget to turn off interior light, baggage light, and radio. Ask somebody to wiggle the engine bay, dash, and tail wires and watch for sudden current raise.

There are only two possible explanations: it's either man made (previous owner tried to have dip beam stay lit also on high beam position?) or a huge amount of current made that solder run down. One thing is for sure, the factory tinned those traces, but didn't put a blob of tin on PCB. You'll be fine if you cleaned that area and isolated all traces.

I am totally backing up Dan's description and science behind it. I think we have to do something before petrol price hits the roof. It would be a great idea to have a special section about devices that really help getting more mpg. Dan has a lot of information to share, he is very committed to share his knowledge and help anyone replicate the benefits of HCS device. There is real science behind it, no marketing BS, 100% free information, very cheap to implement, and Felicia or Favorit cars are a match made in heaven for this device. TeflonTom, please help us get maximum visibility for this initiative. Thanks.

krrcan I will ask the original developer (Dan Daum) of this very simple yet efficient device to insert an installation guide in our Classic section. I want you to know that I am against any snake oil device, like magnets-on-fuel-lines crap and such. As I told you in your topic on Ethanol, I have a solid scientific background, and I am the father of all skeptics when it comes to any alternative energy device. But in this case, we're talking about real gains. Stay tuned.

Your car will burn half a liter of petrol for every fifty liters of oil very soon. We usually hope people will try to rescue their cars. I know somebody that owns a Felicia 1.3 MPI with 300,000 miles on board and still going strong after new rings.

It is well known that only gasoline vapors burn. For those not believing that, do a simple test: pour gasoline in an open recipient and throw a lit match in it. The match will extinguish. Now back to internal combustion engines. Gasoline comes into a liquid form and we need to feed vapors into combustion chambers In cold weather, only a very small portion of gasoline is flammable. That is why a heat source is needed. Felicia is using hot air from above the exhaust manifold. Other cars use the so called 'hedgehog' inside intake manifold, which is an electrical heated heatsink. Either way, gasoline droplets (from carburettor or injector(s) are easier to ignite. You have to know that our engines are intentionally designed to have an incomplete burn of gasoline. That's why unburned hydrocarbons are expelled into atmosphere or are burned in catalytic 'converters', the lamest invention ever, designed to cover the lack of efficiency and pollution of our engines. The solution would be to feed the engines with gasoline totally vaporized. Only problem is that vested interests (aka oil companies) put additives in our gasoline to 'help' against detonation, but in fact to reduce intentionally gasoline vaporization and efficient burning. Think this way: when you buy gasoline, more than half is not translated to power, but heat and pollution. krrcan has a good point asking about feeding hot air a longer time, after all he's been struggling a lot in the last month to improve the efficiency of his car. There are many types of fuel vaporizers being experimented. For those interested I have some useful documentation.

Show us how the spark plugs look like.

If I were you, I would purchase myself an OBD I VAG-COM scanner (software version 4.09) and cut the umbilical cord with all dealers.

Oh, don't cry me a river, I am the only one entitled to pose as a victim because I'm Jewish I will not spare anyone's feelings when it comes to misinformation or plain stupidity. It is YOU who should restrain yourself when you reply in the first place. Are we living in an upside down world? I mean, generally speaking, don't tell the lier he's a lier, don't tell a moron he's stupid (in good faith or not) and don't tell a deceiver he's a swindler because you hurt his feelings? #uck that, I worked hard to earn those 4 warning points but on the other hand I think that I am among the best well informed/documented helpful, and experienced Skoda Felicia owner on this forum. I bust my a$$ trying to bring on this forum the best resources I can gather from Czech, Polish, and Russian mechanics. I assume you know you don't have ANY avatar, not even the default one, right? Just because the link to it is broken.

For best results after changing the TB and gasket you need to do a TB reset procedure by using VAG-COM.

That makes two of us. Don't hesitate to put their name in here at wall of shame. Here's another example from one of our local Skoda 'stealers'. I was recommended to fix a Felicia 1.3 on carb that came straight out of those dealers garage with a rough idle, high fuel consumption, loss of power, hard to start, etc. after a timing chain replacement job. They did also an engine oil change. Prior to that job, the car ran fine, but client went to those dealers for a loud noise from the left side of the engine. They said it is only because of timing chain. So what did I find? The timing chain had been installed wrong by 180 degrees and to compensate for that, they twisted the distributor in an awkward position. I also found out the noise came also from coolant pump, but they didn't change it in the process, they asked for extra money to open the engine again. The engine oil... what a huge lie... they put another oil than what the owner bought, and they didn't change the oil filter, they only cleaned the outside to look like new. That's why my trust in any garage is ZERO. I repaired that car properly, now it's back to factory specs. Another happy customer.

mycoolbeard You didn't help AT ALL when you told OP to 'check the timing' because you've learned from TeflonTom somebody might have messed up the distributor position. You only misinformed OP because you have no clue how a Simos 2P system works in comparison to 1AV engines. But you conveniently disregarded that part because that shows your 'tech' or 'mech' or whatever knowledge is very poor. Playing victim now doesn't help either because willing to help is one, while spreading wrong advice is another. Be a man and admit you screwed things up then leave it that way, without singing the song of the good samaritan. PS. Ask your wife to fix your avatar.

@mycoolbeard Are you aware that you have a different type of engine than OP? Like for instance there is NO distributor on his car? Not to mention that according to you and you are repeating what you learned from TeflonTom in Felicia 1.6 Mpi idle speed topic without giving him credit.

And how do you think the timing could have been altered?

Really? Delay?? Wow... how far are they? Like... out of our Solar system? Because AFAIK the satellites orbit at 20,200 km and the signal from them reaches earth in 0.06 seconds, which translates into an instantaneous speed error far lower than any WSS can achieve. The signal from satellites travels with the speed of light, you know, it is not carried in buckets passed from hand to hand. Furthermore, the speed of cars is not exactly in the rockets range to have a major impact on precision. It is the position update that counts the most. Most GPS receivers have a signal refresh rate of 1-2 times/second. So it's the receivers that introduce that lag, not the altitude that satellites orbit at.

Exactly. Why sell you a 2p cardboard gasket, when they could charge for a new TB (plus labor)? One last advice: avoid 'main' dealers with nice offices, luxurious waiting halls with plasma TVs and stuff, because you'll be the one paying for all. Or you could ignore my advice, go to them, bend over and hand them the Vaseline tube.

Skoda Felicia Rear deck

Let's recap a little. So your car ran well previously (including good idle) except for that stall issue when putting the gear shifter into neutral. After a useless O2 sensor replacement, the garage guys (same jokers?) clean the TB, reset it with VAG-COM then you end up with a 2,000 rpm idle and with a 'general wear' (whatever the hell that is) TB. Is it only me that smells rat?

Totally agree with TeflonTom, I would check in the end the ignition coil/transformer too.

Unless the throttle body valve gouged a groove into the air passage, which I doubt, I don't see what is 'worn'. An erratic idle may happen simply from an old throttle body gasket. I don't know how things go in UK garages, but my trust in our local ones is ZERO. How many miles has your TB? What proof of TB wear did the garage offer?