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Skoda Felicia has to have a total toe-in of 1 +/- 1 degrees (0-2 degrees toe-in left + toe-in right). A slight toe-in helps keeping the car rolling straight forward.

I made an error in post #15 (second paragraph) of this topic. Please read correctly "For an easier understanding let's say we end up with a -2 deg. toe (out) on front left wheel and a -3 deg. toe (out)..." Sorry.

Caster angle is measured using a special camber gauge (see Gunson) and a pair of turntables to measure turning 20 degrees in each direction accurately. It's not a DIY job and it's not about toe, so... it's off-topic. But I've learned there are garages in the UK that do free steering geometry checks. Anyways, caster angle is not adjustable for Felicia, so all you can do is to change the part that bent.

Well... lucky you I went to my car to check and no dimple :( I don't think it has to do with LHD/RHD but maybe with the year of fabrication. Mine is 1997

Tom, can you show on a photo where is that center mark please?

@Red Studio There are two possible solutions (if I understood your question correctly): the quick solution and the correct solution. The quick solution If you have true zero toe angle but the steering wheel is not centered, you just take out the steering wheel straight then you reinsert it on different splines so that it is centered. Job done. The correct solution One thing often overlooked by DIYers is to check for equal steering wheel turns to full left and to full right. In other words, if it takes, let's say, 3.5 turns (1260 degrees) from full left to full right, then you will have to make sure the steering wheel turns 1.75 turns (630 degrees or 1 turn + 270 degrees) both to full left and to full right starting from the centered position corresponding to zero toe. If you need to know how to adjust the steering in case full left and full right turns don't match, just ask.

I will try to explain STEP BY STEP in more detail what happens when we do an alignment job in our garage and why I felt the need to consult all of you. Feel free to correct my spelling or style if there are any ambiguous terms. Also feel free to correct my method and improve it. Let's say we did a suspension or steering job and our toe alignment is all over the place. Remember for later that we don't have in our garage the luxury of sitting front wheels on easy rotating plates. For an easier understanding let's say we end out with a 2 deg. toe out on front left wheel and a 3 deg. toe out front right wheel having the steering wheel centered. See illustration below (angles and distances are intentionally exaggerated for better view). We start by adjusting the left track rod length. But here's the catch: when do we know we have zero toe? What is our reference? The right wheel?? No way, it's crooked. You can't rely on a moving part as a base for future measurements. So what is a fixed reference? Well... if the chassis and rear wheels are not damaged... we can use for now the rear left wheel to align the front left wheel. How do we do that? See next illustration. We need a 5 meter piece of string and a 20 mm thick wood board (thanks dohnjoe). Why 20 mm? Because on Felicia rear wheels tracking is 1380 mm and front wheels tracking is 1420 mm. That means a difference of 40 mm hence 20 mm for each side. The string is knotted to the back of the body and routed over the center of the wheels. We watch the string to barely touch the sides of front left tyre. Then we repat this operation for the right side. The final adjustment. Because in reality on Felicia rear wheels have a toe-in angle from factory and because tyres don't rotate so freely on the garage floor when we adjust track rods length, we need a final adjustment. The Internet is full of bad videos showing only this final adjustment and leaving the impression it is correct just to measure the distance between front wheels and you're done. In fact, without a prior preparation shown above, that is using a fixed reference, you may end up with an incorrect toe angle as I explained in short in my previous post. As you see, we measure the distance between the front side of the tyres A and the rear side of the tyres B and adjust equally on both track rods till A=B One last note: people say you can sit each front wheels on 2 floor tiles back to front having grease in between for an easy rotation during track rods adjustment.

Yeah, that might do the trick.

Not exactly my cup of tea, but maybe these photos from our Czech colleagues will serve as inspiration.

Here is my concern: toe angle is measured taking the longitudinal axis of the car as reference. You got to have a fixed point or axis on the car as reference, otherwise you're building on sand so to speak. You definitely don't take a fence as reference It's my opinion that any measurement method based only on front wheels tracking is wrong. See why below. A and B are the typical measurements for DIYers. That is why garages use back wheels as reference. If the chassis is not damaged, back wheels are almost parallel (well, they have a toe-in on Felicia, but anyway) and we may count on that. But here's when things get ugly: front axle tracking is 1420 mm while rear axle tracking is 1380 mm. Go figure...

I recommend http://share-byte.net/

Far less money and complications, far more fuel savings.

Yes it works. See http://www.baligifter.org/hcs/hcs.zip

We have no free tracking checks in here. The moment they clamp the lasers on wheels it's 25 Euros.

The Haynes manual doesn't cover well the equipment upgrades after January 1998. The only manual I trust is the last revision of factory manual (sadly it's in Russian). So I made a translated one-page wiring compilation for you. Enjoy.

What is your preferred DIY toe angle adjustment method? Please specify what is your alignment base.

I have solved the mystery of DRLs on Felicia by reading more carefully the wiring diagrams (see below a compilation I made) First of all, there are NO separate lights for DRLs. It's the dip beam of the headlights that is used. Relay R6 has NOT the role of switching on separate high power DRLs, but to not make possible having lit both dip beam and high beam simultaneously. Basically the circuit works like this: - during daytime: when the driver starts his car, dip beam is automatically lit (as long as side lights and dip beam switches are not on). If the driver selects high beam, dip beam is automatically turned off. - during night time: when side lights and dip beam are turned on, DRLs circuit is turned off and the car lights return to normal operation. Now it would be interesting to find an elegant way to fit LED lights as DRLs for Felicia without being cheap copies of other car makes and without ruining the classic look of the car. From my point of view, this means fitting LED bulbs instead of fog lamp bulbs, given the fact I don't drive when it's fog.

Well... it's upwards for both removal and installation, given the fact that normally when you're under the car you only have access from below. But I don't think it counts anyway, the hole is cylindrical, not conical. Just for the fun of it I would open the old gearbox and see what lurks inside. At least on 5th gear area.

You have to take out pin 7 (see photo) with a pin punch. If you rebuild your gearbox, Briskoda community would be interested to see photos made step by step or even better a video. Keep us posted..

Part number for track rod end is 6U0422811. When a new part comes in, the first thing I do is compare it with old one. For the rest of your questions the best I can do is to show you some photos from my collection. No power steering With power steering

The wiring diagram that I have is showing that DRLs relay gets energized when ignition key is on. The relay is turned off when side lights switch is engaged. Sadly, there is no clear indication what lamps are used for DRLs.

I guess I'll have to pay a visit to a breaker yard and fish for an identical connector. Then I'll have to build a sturdy pin extractor because, as I said before, the connector on my car is half behind left side rear panel and I need that tool to work flawlessly eyes closed.

My local Skoda parts supplier got me one in 3 days for 2 Euros.

Yeah, it was an obvious option, but no thanks, I am not a fan of botched jobs.