Sharpyy

Ahh crap, no problem mate

Hi Matt, Is the internal bonnet release lever still available please, if so how much posted?

Give it a good clean and all the pipework and it will be good as new! Just attach it a bit better than pictured lol If not you can sell it to meeeee

I always did like the 'half stealth' look

Car Parts 4 Less - Cheapest I've found for the complete kit.. STAY AWAY FROM TECHNICLUTCH / CLUTCH SHOP / NATIONWIDE CLUTCH !!!!

Ohhh dear, it will still be usable.. Just do the elephant mod if you refit it and that will eliminate the oil inside How is there oil on the outside of the cooler lol?

Shouldn't be hardly any oil in it. If it was me and I was going to use it, I'd take it off and clean it out with degreaser etc. Make sure it's dry before putting it back though.

Judging by the home made bent bracket I think it's a DIY job mate.

Is this too late to get in on?

Sooooo when's the next one?

Couple of twitchy moments there Richard, looked very sideways at some points!

I'll take the suspension if it hasn't gone already? I also need the bonnet release lever if possible?

Don't do it !!

Has anyone had any experience with this stuff? It's not your usual fuel additive. I used it on my Golf PD130 and it made a noticeable difference to MPG and the engine did sound quieter, I've just purchased some more to use on the Vrs. I've heard of rumours saying it corrodes fuel lines or doesn't work but as it's not an additive it doesn't get diluted into the fuel. You add it directly after the fuel filter as shown in the video below (not a pumpe duse engine but you get the idea).

I quite like the new exhaust, I think it suits the bumper quite nicely but the old one does look more OEM. I bet it sounds nice, is it a deeper sound? Could you not retrofit the old backbox with the new mid pipe? Surely it's the decat pipe that makes it quieter and not the back box?

As Robbbbie!! said, it could be anything really. http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/chassis/brake_brake_mechanics/repairing_the_front_brake/repairing_front_brake_floating_caliper_disc_brake_c54/ 124 Nm is the correct torque for the carrier bolts.

That's a great effort.

Photo's would be good, sounds like someone has bodged a leaky sump. Worst case scenario you will need a new sump gasket but that's not an expensive or difficult job. As long as there is no dirt in the sump thread or on the new sump plug there should be no leaks.

I've got this problem too, it's excessive wear to the hinges at the back of the seat. You can see it when you look in the rear drivers footwell at the back of the seat, I can fit a 2p in it and it stops the movement. You could probably get it welded to bulk up the metal and minimise the rocking though (I don't mean weld the two bits together lol). Failing that buy a new seat

Oh dear, sounds like a second hand engine is your best best and you may get away with changing the head. In either case make sure you change the water pump and cambelt. Good Luck!

YESSSS !!!

WOW !! So where are you going to put the Briskoda sticker? I much prefer those seats to the one's in the dealers car you looked at... I'll be keeping an eye out for it!

Check all boost pipes from the turbo to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the EGR valve, especially if you have excessive black smoke. It takes 10 minutes and will save you the hour long drive if that's the problem. Good Luck!

Are you sure that a new one has been fitted, did he give you the old one as proof? Did you change the flywheel as well? I've just fitted an LUK clutch & flywheel to mine and it has a VERY strong bite right from the first drive. It's not right either way, new clutches shouldn't slip at all.