erindad

Hunted high and low for the paint code on my Karoq se 2019, there is no sticker in the boot under the floor, It is not in the owners hand book which I think is a replacement as there is no details about anything , so anywhere else it could be ?

Hi I've a 2011 1.6 approx 90,000 miles and the front suspension has started to rattle. It started a while ago but I was more concerned about the front wheel bearing which was shot. Changed the bearing on both sides even though it was the drivers side that was worn. Replaced front pads and discs as the discs were worn Noise is coming from the footwell area , behind the dash, mostly passenger side occasionally heard from the drivers side. Seems to get louder the longer it runs. (?) The rattle I thought would be the anti- roll bar link . Changed those and rattle still there. Took off the underbody plastic covers thinking maybe something in there but no. Filled parts of the heat shield with expanding foam and round about fuel pipes. No change. No wear on the front struts but had a slight misting round the seals so changed them both and renewed the top mounting bearings Getting desperate now so removed the inner wings in case something had fell down and was rattling against the body but nothing there. Unbolted the anti-roll bar links to see if it was the anti-roll bar bushes but still the rattle was there. The rattle is there whether the engine is on or off, whether or not in gear or just freewheeling /coasting downhill. It just needs a slightly rough/worn surface road to set it off and on the main roads unless a I hit a pothole its quiet as a mouse. The subframe bolts seem tight enough. No movement in the steering rack track rods. The next thing will be the lower track control arms . Anyone know of anything else that I haven't changed could be causing the rattle ? Any suggestions/ experiences with rattley front suspension would be most appreciated

Helicoil insert ?. Lots on sale and there are plenty of sites on how to fit them .

Ran a scan and found these codes . Would no1 require a new radio antenna ? No2 ???? no3 . Changed the air quality sensor but does it indicate a bad earth somewhere? Fault Found: 00856 - Radio Antenna 007 - Short to Ground Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100111 Fault Priority: 5 Fault Frequency: 58 Reset counter: 144 Mileage: 135926 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2017.01.01 Time: 21:38:46 1 Fault Found: 00469 - Infotainment Databus in Single Wire Operation 011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00101011 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 5 Reset counter: 227 Mileage: 144008 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2017.09.18 Time: 08:52:34 Address 08: Auto HVAC (J255) Labels:| 5K0-907-044.clb Part No SW: 3T0 907 044 BK HW: 3T0 907 044 BK Component: Climatronic H18 0506 Revision: 00001007 Coding: 0000000002 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00074 ASAM Dataset: EV_Climatronic A01010 ROD: EV_ClimaAutoBasis_SK35.rod VCID: 7CF71081F739DB7397-8028 2 Faults Found: 9481988 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [008] - Internal System Fault Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 254 Reset counter: 229 Mileage: 135926 km Date: 2022.08.11 Time: 21:35:26 9479189 - Signal Line for Air Quality Sensor B10A4 15 [009] - Open or Short to Plus Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 63 Reset counter: 198

I have the same error , I was not unduly worried about it as it didn't seem to make any difference . I thought it was a dash out job so wasn't going to go that far but as it seems a simple job I may just change it. A chinese item will do for me , if it works OK good , it it doesn't then it wont make a lot of difference and not a lot of money wasted.

engine oil leaking out and smoking when heat from the engine hits it?

I've been looking for the same as you , thinking of the android TEYES CC3. It comes with a new facia to suit Octavia's and has a good video on utube . It can come with front an d rear camera, blue tooth sat nav and lots of others extras. Still undecided but may jump for it soon.

Thats what I did an flebay one and just changed the clear plastic.

Its a 2012 1.6 Octavia 1Z3 It has automatic h/lights so rather drive with sidelights on and losing the benefit of the auto lights , Is it possible to get the instrument lights to come on with the ignition as well as the sidelights ?

Someone has fitted pads without the sensor wires, they not essential. By connecting the sensor wires together they will work without a pad warning light. The connection has probably failed and now giving a false warning. Either and fit the new pads and use the sensor wires or remake the connection. someone else will be along soon to confirm or correct me.

I think you have to add an extra wire to make it work . Its too long ago since I done mine . It goes from the switch to a controller nearby but cant remember properly. I know the patch wire (ex ebay) was too short and had to join two together

Fuel filter ? That's an idea , I'll change it anyway as it done 15000 since last renewed. Trying to get it do it when I want it to do it is hard , It seems more cooperative when its hot and done about 30/40 miles.

To be honest I didn't look at the revs when it happens but I'll take note of the revs. No i didn't take the FIX , Me being a miserable git would have to had a 100 mile round trip at my expense even thou the message about the FIX said at " No expense to you"🤥 and the stories circulating at the time.

Does anyone with a 1.6tdi get juddering at 45mph in 5th gear. Only done 80,000mls but 10 years old , new belts 30,000 mls ago. Cruising along gently in 5th gear about 45/50mph when I go to accelerate it hesitates and jumps gently then off we go. Am I in too high a gear ? , Noticed this problem in the last year or so and getting worse , it used to do it about 40mph, which I put down to too high a gear. I was wondering if a valve gasket or something is starting to develop holes. I was going to scan with VCDS but laptop just packed up. Any suggestions ?

You may see more with the engine cover lifted off. Looks like a oil/fluid spill onto hot engine/exhaust

I tried the red needle idea as previous post . Used red insulating tape stuck to a piece of clear sticky tape and a hole punched in it . Attached it with a small dab of hot glue. Came out quite well but don't know yet if any heat from the LED will affect it . Not been tried in the dark yet. Instead of bright white smd leds for the gauges I used warm white but not impressed with them I will change them for bright white and make them red also.

Dimmer control doesn't make any difference to the needle brightness or make the temp and fuel needles light up.

Since getting used to the bright needles on my speed and rev dials I've just discovered the fuel and temp gauge needles LEDs are not working now. A repeat performance is now required . I found the brightness was irritating and wonder if a piece of a sweetie colour film put over the LEDS would change and dim the leds just that little bit. A blue or red needle with a white background ? Going to try it when I have the dash panel out again

I prised my one off. It was tight but cleaned the jets and put it back on . It fell off first time out but was'nt expensive to replace. £7.50 six years ago from Skoda. Cheaper than £60 a pop.

The original tip was rounded , I just ground it down to a point. There is photo of the size now about the size of a ball point pen tip

I've got fat stubby fingers but as long as you can hold a pair of tweezers in one hand and a soldering iron with a really small tip in the other and have a magnifying lamp on an adjustable stand you'll manage . Just follow the instructions above.

I though that maybe the motors had been damaged when taking off needles as it took a lot of leverage with the forks (good idea the forks ) Getting it down to a fine art now , takes about 5mins to remove instrument panel and 5 mins to strip. The needles centre were just too close to the white diffuser shield .Been pushed too far on. Raised them a fraction and alls well. The biggest problem I found was getting a soldering iron with a small enough point to melt the solder without melting the SMD led when fitting the new ones. Had to modify my smallest tip which did the job. 10 SMD off ebay @£1.70, cheap enough to melt them . Could not have done it without my magnifying lamp.

I followed the instructions above for replacing the SMD leds in my instrument panel. It worked but now the needles are jerky in operation . The speedo needle goes up smoothly but jerks /jumps on the slow down . The rev counter was OK until I realised the needle was in the wrong position, 6000 revs with engine off. After sorting that out the rev counter has now started to jerk like the speedo . At first I thought the face dial was incorrectly placed but no. Could I have damaged the motor which turns the needles. Could the needle be to far on and rubbing on the face. ? Any ideas anyone?

As Above a lot of BS What about taking it to a official VW/Skoda dealer ( or another one ) for their opinion and ask for an estimate to repair. (if slipping )? At least you will have something to show him he's wrong and what it may cost him to put right. The longer you leave it the harder it will get for you to get him to repair /replace it. I wonder about the seized calliper in the first place as it rolled OK on the flat.

Are the two "special bolts , nuts and washers " you replaced the adjustable ones. If so then thats your problem as KenONeill says.