dancingbear84

thanks, my folks have a Petrol, for us the diesel was better due to the mpg and the wife’s driving commute as well as being a family runaround. We got a great deal I thought. The depreciation on the roomster is shocking. But great for 2nd hand owners like us 👍🏼

I find generally that there is a lot of personality that comes into play. Mrs Bear had a fiat 500 and geographic location meant a lot of country lane driving. She once had a taxi driver give her a load of &£@* because he had to reverse 20 meters in a straight line up a hill to a passing space, by contrast my wife would have to have reversed 400m or so around corners etc he was gesturing that she should reverse, she shouldn’t be driving down lanes and all the usual BS, even said does she know the damage reversing up a hill will do to the clutch. She turned off the engine and waited for him to go back, we’d lived there 11 years at that point we know how to deal with the country lanes. I have had people attempt to bully me in the Fabia, I find that if you give in, even a little bit then they will royally take the peee. I’m usually a courteous driver and will always try to think of others, but certain things really boil my urine: Prime examples are siting in a yellow hash box so I can’t pull out. Blocking a junction because you’re oblivious. Being generally obnoxious, sitting in the middle lane on a motorway, or being unable to drive in country lanes. Oh and being downright rude. A Simple flick up of the hand or flash of the lights to say thanks coats nothing, but we do a lot of country lane driving I don’t agree with road rage, but I will get rather shouty in the car for 30 seconds then move on with my day. We have only had our roomster for a few hours, but I don’t intend to be bullied by anyone. 😀

Hi everyone, I have been happy as a mk1 vrs owner for some time and mrs bear has a fiat 500, until today. When we became very happy owners of a 14 plate 1.6 tdi roomster. We’ve not done a lot of miles in it as yet, but so far we are absolutely blown away by the space and comfort of the thing. The only things I would like to change are adding cruise control (although we don’t really do the distances to warrant it), adding roof bars (get the dealer to do it if the cost is reasonable) and adding Bluetooth/ swapping swing for balero or Amundsen head unit if it a straight swap. i love the pano roof and the power compared to the furby is impressive, (it is the 105bhp) so not too dissimilar. Im sure I’ll be showing up here more over the next few weeks/months as I find queries etc.

Well that looked incredibly easy, I’ll have another go tomorrow I guess. For the life of me I couldn’t do it, but it was dark and raining to be fair. Thanks for the link, I couldn’t find anything to help me when I looked. I need to remove to MAF and see if it makes the motor run worse, I’m trying to identify the cause of my poor fuel economy

I’m at a loss, I can not for the life of me find out how to remove the MAF connector on my vrs. I would have thought it was simple, but it doesn’t appear to be. Is there something that I am missing? Is there a retaining clip or something that is broken on mine and that is why I am struggling? I have tried to take a picture of the base of the MAF connector but it is slightly out of focus

That’s a nice engine bay, how did you get it so clean?

Looking at the full logs they start at 0.7 and go up in increments of around 1, I would assume that they are seconds since the logging began. In this case I started logging when I started the vehicle, so I would assume around 11 minutes.

I have taken a reading of the ETS/CTS and the MAF this morning on the way to work, my feeling is the MAF looks more out of whack than the CTS but I don't really understand the logs fully. This was a sample of a section of the logs taken after around 3 miles when the the dash was showing the temp at 90, so engine should have been warm(ish)

Yeah I’m lazy, the thing was I have literally only being doing about 2 miles a day for the last 6 months. Do you know if it is possible to check the ect using VCDS to confirm it is the issue? I have a week off coming up so am happy to replace the ect or maf or hoses or whatever the issue is if it resolves it, but I’d like to confirm the fault first if possible.

Mine used to get around 550 but now it is down to the 300 mark. That’s annoying and I’m working I’d to get to the bottom of it. Also only around 80k miles on a 2005

I had this on mine recently, made a big difference, was around 40 quid from the local Skoda dealer iirc

I am very slow at getting round to things, it is one of my worse personality traits. Anyway I had a mooch around the engine bay and discovered that the large black hose from the vac pump to the brake assist was "perished" or rather badly split at both ends. I also discovered some perished hose from the n75 to wherever they go. I have bought some 3mm ID silicone hose and plan to replace this over the next week or two. I also downloaded a copy of VCDS lite, I think it is OK to discuss this as it is legit shareware. i just wondered if anyone could advise on what I can check with VCDS lite to point me in the direction of a repair. I would like to keep the furby on the road for as long as I can, and am happy to fix certain things myself. How can I use VCDS to check the ECT sensor or the MAF, anyone able to suggest anything to point me in the right direction.

Air filter was changed at the last service almost a year ago, but this has been going on for a while, I’ll check the ets first I guess

I keep meaning to ask, but not getting around to it. My fuel economy is awful. Like through the floor awful, I used to get around 550-600 miles per tank, driving carefully. Obviously a bit less if I was driving less economically, but always around 500 to a tank. recently I have been lucky to get 350 miles to tank. i have a friend with vagcom who is happy to test anything I want, but he is only familiar with his vw t4 stuff. would anyone be able to give me some ideas of what to test or change? We looked at the MAF readings and they looked to be reading ok. My father in law said it could be injectors but I’m sceptical. There is a lot of black residue over the back of the car, I’m guessing is unburnt diesel. If if anyone can give me thing to try to diagnose the issue I’d be incredibly grateful

Do you do it for a living though, if you do then you’ll have some ideas on the other issues I’m having too hopefully

Brilliant thanks. I spent far too long in the rain on Saturday trying to fix it, it was a total nightmare and the window is currently held up with 2 by 1. I didn’t think I could handle going through the hassle again of redoing it if there was some reason it would not work

Well I beg to differ, the one on the vrs is a slightly different shape and has green bits on the mechanism, the one I took out of the scrapyard had no green bits, different gauge steel wire and different shape plastic sleds holding the window clamps. The vrs one was riveted to the frame, this one is now bolted. Unless of course the one I took from the scrapyard had previously been replaced by the old owner? it is a faff of a job and one that I’m not finished yet

Had the horrible job of replacing the window regulator, Friday night the dreaded crack and the window dropped into the door card. So on Saturday I made a dash to the scrapyard and grabbed a replacement regulator and glass (just in case) for 15 quid. It was an 04 plate and all bolted together nice and easy. I got home and set to the vrs, only to discover that the 54 plate was riveted. Ugh, easy enough to drill out and managed to get the thing apart but they are 2 different shapes, they fit fine though, although I haven’t got them into the door yet. Would it matter if they’re slightly different? I assumed not. However I bust one of the plastic runners in attempting to fit it, any idea where to get spares? Also where is a good place to get rivets? The skodaparts site has a link saying they’re not taking orders now?

So I changed the cts, and the light has gone out on the dash, the car feels better too. The door lock was sorted by the garage. The knock from the passenger side required a new wishbone and something else, but that was all sorted under my insurance. All that remains is the peculiar behaviour of the drivers window. I have 2 switch units, both will wind the window down, one will not bring it back up at all. The other will bring it back up in intermittent increments, sometimes nothing, sometimes an inch sometimes 4 inches. I have also stripped down the unit and cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner. I suspect either the motor or the door control unit, would this be a sensible guess? Is there anything else that it could be? I have tried the button all the way plus 5 seconds thing but no good. Which leaves me with disconnecting the battery, or the key in the door thing.

Oh well, never mind. I don't have the time to deal with it at the minute, the weather is awful, I need the car, I don't have a big enough rivet gun, I need to have it sorted before the MOT and the garage have the car for another reason. Besides I needed to spend my Christmas bonus on something... Lol

Update, I picked up a cts on the way to a garage today for the car to have some more repairs done following an accident that weren't fixed the first time around. Whilst there I asked if they would sort the door, which they will. It isn't as bad as I was expecting to be with regards cost, given the price of the part is around 160. Then all I have left to do is fit the cts, and investigate the rogue window winding up issue, which may be motor related, or someone suggested that the cable/mechanism may just need lubing, not sure how true that could be?

Thanks guys, yes sorry I did mean the cts, by reputable motor factor do you mean somewhere like ECP or GSF? Is there an easy way to test the drivers door loom? I have already got the internal door card off, but I am down to the aluminium skin which is riveted on, how would I remove the lock, is it from the edge of the door and held in place by 2 bolts? Sorry for the daft questions I'm just trying to get to the bottom of the issue quickly before the MOT ideally without spending hundreds at a garage.

Hi all, I have been trawling the forums all day, and think that I have the answers but just want to check... My MOT is due in a few weeks and I want to sort out the following issues: 1. Passenger door locked. I have removed the card and if I pull the lock up whilst pressing the button it will "sometimes" unlock. It doesn't unlock if I use the interior handle, the passenger motor makes a feint growl but nothing more. 2. drivers window will not wind up (tried 2 switches same issue), I have managed to get it to go up with gentle persuasion and a lot of luck I think. 3. Coolant sensor issue, I'm happy with the fix for that but I would like someone to point me in the direction of a replacement - dealer is quoting 45quid, would a scrapyard sensor be worth a try, if not where would you suggest I try? 4. I suspect that the seals are shot but again I'm happy with the fix for that too. 5. The drivers side window buttons do nothing to the passenger side window. IT is really 1 and 2 that I need help with, indy vag specialist is quoting a few hundred for the door fix alone... Is it possible that it is the issue with the door control unit it in the drivers side door, would this affect the passenger lock, and both Windows? If it is can it just be swapped or is it coded to the vehicle's ecu?

It's never worked since I got the car a year ago. We've had nothing but rain for the past few weeks, so I've not had a chance to get out and look on the drivers side and try the motor, or wrap a bit of tape around the wire which is exposed in the door exit/body entry point. One day I will get to the bottom of it... Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the advice guys. I took the door trim off the passenger side and checked the wiring between the both driver and passenger doors and the body. Nothing obvious jumped out at me, the only possible thing was that the pvc cover on the brown/blue cable on the drivers side was worn so could be shorting something I suppose. I didn't check the resistance of the motor, I'll have to check that next time we have some half decent weather. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk