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am i doing this right???

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Ive never been into detailing cars that was until i came on to this forum lol. Ive got a yellow mk1 oct vrs and was wondering if what i was doing was right and if there was anything else i should know or do.

1- rinse and wash the car in meguiars NXT car shampoo using 2 bucket method.

2- then dry with hyper blade and chamois leather.

3- clay bar the whole car using meguiars.

4- wax the car using meguiars gold class liquid wax.

should i use a polish between numbers 3 and 4 as was told gold class liquid wax was a all in one.

cheers

Step 2 makes baby Jesus cry :(

The blade merely imparts scratches!

Aside from that, sounds good!

  • Author

arh we dont want baby jesus crying lol i only use one because its easy lol

To be fair the chamois isn't going to help either.............:thumbdwn:

Get some microfibre towels for drying, and also use a polish before the wax and after clay every 5-6 months or so.

Sounds good advice.

Any tips for polish and wax please? That Megs gear seems to be highly regarded. As I'm off to London soon to collect my new vRS Estate :cool:, who keeps this stuff so I can pop in past for some on the way home? (540 miles btw, a decent drive home, eh?) Long way to go for some cheaper fuel....:rofl:

Cleaner/Polishes - Megs DC1/2 but not 3 and Colli 476s for a good price

Klasse AIO topped with a wax of your liking (again I like 476s)

Either of those sets will set you back less than £30 and give what I would describe as a good hard wearing protection that will look much better than the normal items you buy in a shop.

Might not be right up there with the best of the best, but you'd need to know how to tell to be able to tell if you did it right :)

  • Author

so how often should you 1- clay

2- wax

3- polish

so how often should you 1- clay

2- wax

3- polish

Once you have clayed the car you should not need to do this for another 6 months or so especially if you have polished and then applied a good wax on top as the paintwork will have plenty of protection...........:thumbup:

You clay then polish then wax.

How often you polish and then wax depends on how good your paint protection is and how good your wash method is.

A good wax like colli, you can probably polish the car, put an initial two layers of the wax on then just top it up every 3 months with a single layer.

:eek:whats wrong with a chamois?!

Notmore stuff to make scratches surely?! maybe i should just avoid washing my car all toether?! I havent touched it until i get some mitts and an extra bucket. :o

chammy's aint too bad, but microfibres better ;)

Cheap chamois as you get these days from nearly everywhere will induce maring of it's own accord. Even the expensive chamois will drag any dirt along with it and since it doesn't have the fibre for this dirt to be pulled up into it can cause scratching as the dirt is dragged along the paint.

All IMHO obviously.

Having just bought a GC Miracle Drying Towel, this does not compare to my Waffle Weave towel I bought from the US or the Eurow Waffle Weave Towel I have so for me Waffle Weave is the best drying product............:thumbup:

can you use a regular cotton towel, like house hold ones we use after a shower? :)

I also just bought an extra bucket and a microfiber noodle wash pad!:P its birght green!

can you use a regular cotton towel, like house hold ones we use after a shower? :)

I also just bought an extra bucket and a microfibre noodle wash pad!:P its bright green!

I would avoid that type of towel Leon, Believe it or not they are probably quite rough. I would hold out for a waffle weave or even microfibre at least.

A good tip is to get a brand new CD and run your towel/cloth over it and see if any marks are left on it, if thee is then that's what's going to happen to your clearcoat.

If you have a leafblower lying about then that's even better, even if you do look a bit eccentric doing it :P

I would avoid that type of towel Leon, Believe it or not they are probably quite rough. I would hold out for a waffle weave or even microfibre at least.

A good tip is to get a brand new CD and run your towel/cloth over it and see if any marks are left on it, if thee is then that's what's going to happen to your clearcoat.

If you have a leafblower lying about then that's even better, even if you do look a bit eccentric doing it :P

haha!! by the time its stoped raining i should have some money to buy one:) they were sold out yesterday. :(

thanks though:)

I use a combo on an Autoglym synthetic chamois and micro fibre to dry.

I used the Megs Gold Class on my old car to very good results, but its better if you use the Megs step 2 polish before the wax, you should then get a very deep rich wet look finish after they have both been applied.

I don't buy expensive car wash either. Just Johnsons Baby Bath as recommended by many on Detailing World site. Cheap cheerful and very effective.

Leaf blowers work well to get the most of the water off :rolleyes:

Lots of sound advice here :thumbup: although the loony van will be coming if I head on out to the car with the leafblower! :rofl:

For what it's worth, I've had excellent results using Meguiar's clay, step 2 polish (not used step 1 cleaner as yet), followed by NXT Tech Wax (although next time I'll be using Gold Class wax for sake of experimentation). Then, top the lot off with Ultimate Quick detailer (the stuff in the black bottle). It makes the shine deeper, and it beads water for a hell of a lot longer, trust me! Cracking stuff. I do all that using just Meguiar's microfibre cloths, makes things much easier, faster and safer for your paint.

PS-Waffle weave cloths are the business for drying your paint :thumbup:

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