The sidelight bulbs I swapped out weren't "a little greyed", they were more or less black, but still worked.

One of the bulbs is approaching black but still works - will have to change soon.

The reversing light switch part number was XRLS123 - cost £13.16 plus vat.

Picked up some 15 amp fuses at the same time (no 10amp's left).

If time permits and it does not rain then I will fit the new switch tonight.

Regards

Damian

Edit:

The reversing light switch is not the correct one. At least not for my model

Edited 31 July, 200817 yr by damiandixon

Hi Soviet,

I've attached a couple of images. One is the plug the other of the engine bay...

There is a small catch which is just about visible on one of the pictures.

In answer to the other posts I have not modified the electrics or added anything to them... the suggestions were valid and nothing should ever be ruled out. Thanks.

I attached the multimeter to the plug and got a resistance reading with the ignition off - which was not expected.

The reversing switch in neutral was infinity - as expected.

Tried to put the car in reverse and was unable to without the plug connected to the switch - odd - very odd.

At this point I went back to the Haynes manual and checked the wiring and re-read the transmission section - nothing at all about this or anything else on the circuit.

Well off to check the wiring in the boot and a look under the car... for anything obvious.

Thanks

Damian

Hi Damion,

Thanks for the pics here, and the plug was similar here to what I was thinking.

As you say it is very odd that you are not able to put the car in the reverse without switch connected.

A few weeks ago now, my father in law who has a Citroen Zx, has the son that does not have very good electrical knowledge and he replaced a rear lamp bulb with the wrong rating, and this must have been a lower resistance of the lamp bulb as then his reversing lights stayed on all of the time when ignition was on. For some reason the feed was common, and lowering the resistance allowed the reversing lamps to be always on.

I have been reading your final thread here, and I see that you will be having a look at the trouble that you have tonight. If you find it we would all like to know what is causing the problem here, as it will be useful for all of Briskolians for the future. Thank you.

I too find this a bit strange as you have written below, and I wonder if there is a problem here maybe as if you are looking at wiring picture on page 12.23 it shows the feed is coming from the black wire (SW code) on the ignition switch, and in off position there should not be a reading I think.

I attached the multimeter to the plug and got a resistance reading with the ignition off - which was not expected.

This is really a strange one, but very interesting.

Speak soon, and best of luck tonight.

Soviet:thumbup:

Edited 31 July, 200817 yr by soviet
sp

Hi Soviet,

I managed to remove the switch - however the replacement one was not the correct one (at least for my model). Looked the same but the thread section was twice as large.

I'd checked the part number against a parts list on the internet and made the bloke look the part up separately...

I'm going to order the parts directly from my local Skoda dealer tomorrow.

I've found that there is a lot of differences between by 1.6 and the one in the Haynes manual. Different gear ratio's, fuel injection... so the wiring diagram could be wrong. I had a look on the Russian Skoda web-site but the manuals appear to just be the Haynes manual translated to Russian.

I'm also going to get some bulbs to replace the ones that look a bit iffy.

Thanks

Damian

In general the resistance of an incandescent light bulb (all car bulbs except plasma discharge headlights) is a function of wattage. Normally, barring the 21/5W "stop/tail" bulbs, the physical size of the bulb glass and mounting "cap" are directly related to wattage too. So I'm struggling to see how you could fit a "wrong resistance" bulb, unless using an LED replacement. Then I'd think "why bother?" with a ZX which has all colour clusters: The normal reason for fitting LEDs is to get rid of the orange dot in a clear indicator.

Hi Soviet,

I managed to remove the switch - however the replacement one was not the correct one (at least for my model). Looked the same but the thread section was twice as large.

I'd checked the part number against a parts list on the internet and made the bloke look the part up separately...

I'm going to order the parts directly from my local Skoda dealer tomorrow.

I've found that there is a lot of differences between by 1.6 and the one in the Haynes manual. Different gear ratio's, fuel injection... so the wiring diagram could be wrong. I had a look on the Russian Skoda web-site but the manuals appear to just be the Haynes manual translated to Russian.

I'm also going to get some bulbs to replace the ones that look a bit iffy.

Thanks

Damian

Hi Damion,

You really are the unlucky one here. I hope that things turn good for you when you have the correct switch.

I was the one that that told the father in law that his reverse lamps were lighting for all of the time, which he was telling me that the son replaced the bulb in rear light, and a mechanic found the wrong in there too.

This was only what I learned when he is telling me.

Like you are saying here, your wiring is appearing differently maybe to the Haynes manual, which is not helpful. I seem to think that Russian diagrams are copies of Haynes, and I am agreeing with you here, and they are too having the problem of getting the correct workshop ones also.

I have also tried Russia, Czech Republic, and also USA for good diagrams, that will be better ones than the block type of version in the Haynes book, but I get nowhere.

Best of luck Damion

Soviet:thumbup:

In general the resistance of an incandescent light bulb (all car bulbs except plasma discharge headlights) is a function of wattage. Normally, barring the 21/5W "stop/tail" bulbs, the physical size of the bulb glass and mounting "cap" are directly related to wattage too. So I'm struggling to see how you could fit a "wrong resistance" bulb, unless using an LED replacement. Then I'd think "why bother?" with a ZX which has all colour clusters: The normal reason for fitting LEDs is to get rid of the orange dot in a clear indicator.

Hi Ken,

I do not know here, what is the full story, to my father in laws ZX, as I was the one that was telling him that the reversing lamps are staying on always.

He was the one that was telling me that his son has put the wrong bulb in somewhere here, but may have been rear lamp, and not reverse lamp holder for it. The mechanic was finding this when he was doing MOT test on ZX, and problem was solved by fitting correct wattage of lamp bulb. His son does not have the good electrical knowledge, and so I would say that this is possible, and he must have found the lamp bulb which fitted a socket somewhere.

I did not look at this one myself, as you do recall that I was fixing his ignition switch, and you gave me the help with this. Thank you again.

Soviet:thumbup:

I have heard of people somehow (it takes considerable physical effort) fitting a 21/5W bulb in a 21W bulbholder, and that gives funny results due to the odd circuit that's created.

Went to my local'ish Skoda dealer today (ordered the part earlier in the week).

Third type of reversing light switch - yes there are three types for the Octavia! - later...

I'm uploading a picture of two of the types. The third looks like it attaches some where inside the car over the gear lever shaft.

The one that fits my car is on the right.

The trick to removing the cable is push the connector on fully then to put a screw driver under the tab and lift the tab while pulling apart. It's actually easier if you take the switch off the transmission block first. Remember to loosen the cable so you have a lot of play in the cable.

All appears to be working now (fingers crossed).

While I was at the garage I spoke to one of the senior mechanics. It appears that fuse 7 is connected to the main console and if the fuse goes than the speedo stops working and the fuel gauge becomes very sensitive.

So it looks like the Haynes manual is wrong.

Also had a peek at the workshop manuals on the PC - very nice and detailed pity we can't get hold of them.

Thanks

Damian

Went to my local'ish Skoda dealer today (ordered the part earlier in the week).

Third type of reversing light switch - yes there are three types for the Octavia! - later...

I'm uploading a picture of two of the types. The third looks like it attaches some where inside the car over the gear lever shaft.

The one that fits my car is on the right.

The trick to removing the cable is push the connector on fully then to put a screw driver under the tab and lift the tab while pulling apart. It's actually easier if you take the switch off the transmission block first. Remember to loosen the cable so you have a lot of play in the cable.

All appears to be working now (fingers crossed).

While I was at the garage I spoke to one of the senior mechanics. It appears that fuse 7 is connected to the main console and if the fuse goes than the speedo stops working and the fuel gauge becomes very sensitive.

So it looks like the Haynes manual is wrong.

Also had a peek at the workshop manuals on the PC - very nice and detailed pity we can't get hold of them.

Thanks

Damian

Hi Damion, and thanks for the feedback.

I am pleased that all is seeming to be ok here now, and I was also not aware that fuse 7 was also feeding the speedo, but am not suprised as Haynes manual is not good. Yes it is a shame here, that we cannot get hold of the manuals that they are working to, which as you are saying have much detail.

Who would have thought that there are the 3 different switches for the Octavia? but it is good here that you have photographs which will help people on the forum in future that is having this problem. Thank you!

I expect you are now relaxed that the problem is solved, which is good.

Thank you, and best of luck for future.

Soviet:thumbup::)