As title, has anyone got a dyno map for evidence that this upgrade does help.

ta

Probably wont gain any BHP alone - but is essential with a remap or further tuning as it helps to get more air into the engine - this compensates for the increased fuelling which comes with more power = more power and less smoke

As Joel says, it won't offer much if any extra power in itself. There are plenty of people reporting better throttle response though, and gives you better results from remapping.

:+1: On its own the power increase is nil. How can it be: you're not chucking any more fuel into the cylinders, and unlike a petrol, you're running excess air anyway. I'm on the fence as regards throttle response (FBW is always going to make it a bit like ringing down to the engine room of the QE2), but it certainly helps keep the smoke down under load with a tuned engine and even from standard on a hot day. If nothing else, this is a sign of cleaner combustion, and it's why I parted with a painful amount of money for mine.

To give a quick history lesson, the intakes were extremely popular a few years ago when they cost about 1/3 as much as they do now, however because SEAT now charge nearly £80 for them, they're only really worth it if you're going to do some kind of tuning too...

HTH

Perhaps "better throttle response" is the wrong phrase; "reduced turbo lag" (from reduced resistance to flow allowing mass air flow to build faster) might be more like it.

I swapped my PD160 back to the 130 intake lastnight, as i've never driven the car with the original intake on (car was bought with the 160 fitted)

So far, i cant tell any difference at all in any way.

I've just fitted the PD160 to SWMBO's fabia and can say that it feels a little smoother and there is less soot. It does seem to rev a little more freeley too. It feels quicker although it probably isn't it's just a smoother under acceleration.

It's worth it for the reduction in soot alone imo

Its downright essential with any sort of tuning such as a dragon box or remap

I swapped my PD160 back to the 130 intake lastnight, as i've never driven the car with the original intake on (car was bought with the 160 fitted)

So far, i cant tell any difference at all in any way.

Snap. I ran a PD160 for a while and even tried using vag-com to log MAF readings to see if more air was passing through. Can't say I found anyincrease. Then I sold it for the same price as I paid for it (thanks SEAT ) and went back to the PD130 intake. Didn't notice any difference.

I think the only gain is when mapped to request higher boost pressures. Stock PD130 runs at 1.35bar. PD160 1.55bar hybrids your looking at 1.7 upwards.

Well thats the 130 been on a week, the car drives the same, no difference in fuel consumption over 7 days either.

Although as most say, there's a lot of soot.

I'll probably throw it back on for that reason alone, but if in different circumstances, i'd be extremly dissapointed if i splashed out all that cash on one.

If your motor's smoking more heavily, that pretty much supports the "you can flow more air with the 160" argument, since diesels black smoke when they're over-fuelling.

If your motor's smoking more heavily, that pretty much supports the "you can flow more air with the 160" argument, since diesels black smoke when they're over-fuelling.

Agreed, but in real driving terms, it goes un-noticed. (in my experience anyway)

Others may disagree.

True but in theory if you have a restriction in the air intake this should be picked up by the air mass meter and adjust the fueling accordingly.

Well, it's only been a week, and i've done little mileage compared to normal, so maybe it'll even out after a few more days.

Agreed, but in real driving terms, it goes un-noticed. (in my experience anyway)

Others may disagree.

I didn't say it was making less power; just that it was over-fuelling on high throttle low revs.

I didn't say it was making less power; just that it was over-fuelling on high throttle low revs.

High Throttle low revs....mid revs...high revs...

Has turned into a Deltic !

The deltic is now gone. :(

Put the 160 back on lastnight as the back of the car is a tad sooty.

Still not noticing a difference, but then my driving style is rather relaxed anyway.

But definately less smoke.

Also gave the Pipercross filter a little hoover etc too.

:+1: On its own the power increase is nil. How can it be: you're not chucking any more fuel into the cylinders, and unlike a petrol, you're running excess air anyway. I'm on the fence as regards throttle response (FBW is always going to make it a bit like ringing down to the engine room of the QE2), but it certainly helps keep the smoke down under load with a tuned engine and even from standard on a hot day. If nothing else, this is a sign of cleaner combustion, and it's why I parted with a painful amount of money for mine.

To give a quick history lesson, the intakes were extremely popular a few years ago when they cost about 1/3 as much as they do now, however because SEAT now charge nearly £80 for them, they're only really worth it if you're going to do some kind of tuning too...

HTH

80 quid!!! bloody hell should have took mine off my old furby before i sold it. looks like im gona have to get the card out again! lol:eek:

Yup...aint cheap now ! :(

bought mine last week for £40. good ole fleabay

We always recommend the PD160 intakes.

It reduces strain on the compressor wheel of the turbocharger.

On some of our own cars we've even drilled airboxes, you'll be amazed at how much sucking power the car has on full chat, the less pressure the turbo has to fight with the better.

On some of our own cars we've even drilled airboxes, you'll be amazed at how much sucking power the car has on full chat, the less pressure the turbo has to fight with the better.

Wouldn`t you be a lot better off fitting a proper uprated induction kit then doing a bodge job of drilling the airbox so the engine is always sucking in hot air ? :confused:

Most induction kits have oil based filters which then effects MAF performance, due to there not being any throttle flap the engine is constantly sucking making a drowning thud thud, you can almost count the engine beats.

You'd need a induction kit with a heat shield that sealed against the bonnet like we sell for other vehicles to truely cut out heat soak.

Like i say, we've never drilled customer airboxes, only our own development vehicles and made a plasic seperator to keep engine bay heat out and to take a feed from the wing.

Something I've found myself wondering in this context; ambient temperature sensors and engine temperature sensors are common enough: The Japs have a line going in intake and exhaust temp sensors, but has anyone ever actually measured engine bay temperatures around the airbox in normal road driving (or on track for that matter)?