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britishmeat
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dieselV6 Experienced

dieselV6

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I use aftermarket EBC green (kevlar+copper) both on Octavia and the Superb. Have been using them for 5 years or so (2.5 sets Octy, 1.5 sets Superb so far)

Kevlar pads do shorten the braking distance quite noticeably,and in any remotly sensible road use eliminate brake fade provided you use them together with at least DOT5.1 brake fluid (this is DOT4 compatible, just higher boiling temperature, even Halfrauds has it).

In fact on the Superb 2.5TDI, with boot loaded, 4 people in the car and the towbar carrier, I find factory brakes on Superb downright inadequate.Try braking twice 70mph-0 in quick succession, just make sure there's no one else around. The brakes fade quite dramatically.

You can get EBC greens with sensor wires, EBC codes for my Superb's discs and pads below

(front disc size D602), front pad type DP24183

(rear disc size D601), rear pad type DP2680

But make sure your brakes are the same as on 2.5TDI 6-spd man.

The downside is that whenever the rear pads are worn out, you probably want to replace rear discs as well, but that usually happens with OEM pads too.

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dieselV6 Experienced

dieselV6

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What sort of price are we looking at?

~stlg70 front set, ~stlg35 rear set, probably cheaper if you look around.

It's double the price of standard alternatives, but brakes 20%-30% better. Wear rate is slower than standard as long as you use normal, steel discs (not fancy light alloy, or crossed/drilled gizmos).

Dot 5.1 fluid is probably stlg10/bottle at Halfrauds, best price/performance fluid is probably Motul RBF600 but that you have to buy online and I am not sure you see the difference to DOT5.1 fluid.

I have Castrol Response Super Dot4, which just about meets 5.1 spec

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dieselV6 Experienced

dieselV6

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If you have brake judder then they do need replacing, otherwise check minimum thickness. Don't remember off the top of my head, but it could be 15mm front and 9mm rear minimum, but please check with service manual (you can get Haynes Passat one)

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dieselV6 Experienced

dieselV6

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They stopped selling Super Dot 4 in my area around 1yr-1.5yr ago, I got 3 bottles on sale, and used them on the Octavia and the Superb.

Super Dot4 is actually slightly below 5.1 wet boiling point spec, so if you have a choice, theoretically you are better off buying generic DOT5.1 fluid. Which might be an improved Super Dot 4 anyway :-)

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Bluefox Proficient

Bluefox

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Super Dot4 is actually slightly below 5.1 wet boiling point spec, so if you have a choice, theoretically you are better off buying generic DOT5.1 fluid. Which might be an improved Super Dot 4 anyway :-)

Correct. DOT 5.1 surpasses Super DOT 4.

Some stores still have residual stocks, and of course they can order parts such as this from local motor factors within two hours in some cases if you do require Super DOT 4.

My main point was there's no U in our name, and there are a few of us there who do still care and know what we're talking about... :o

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dieselV6 Experienced

dieselV6

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Posted (edited)

You can add 5.1 to 4, of course for best effect it's good to do a thorough brake and clutch bleed with at least 200ml/valve, but there is no need to empty the system beforehand.

Dot 5.1 is evolution of DOT4 fluids and is NOT related to DOT5 (silicone based). 5.1 note merely implies that it has better boiling properties than DOT5. Never use DOT5 in any DOT3/4/5.1 system, but you can use DOT5.1 in DOT3/DOT4 system.

A little help here from Wikipedia:

Boiling point ranges: Dry boiling point Wet boiling point Composition

DOT 3 205°C (401°F) 140°C (284°F) polyethylene glycol

DOT 4 230°C (446°F) 155°C (311°F) polyethylene glycol

DOT 5 260°C (500°F) 180°C (356°F) silicone

DOT 5.1 270°C (518°F) 191°C (375°F) polyethylene glycol

Real-life user experience :eek:

With kevlar pads and full car I managed to boil factory DOT4 fluid and lose brakes when braking 110mph - 50mph on autobahn after an HGV rapidly pulled up in front of me. Fortunately, the brakes stopped working when I only had another ~5mph to drop, so engine braking saved the car (and us). After that I put in the Super Dot 4 and never had a problem since, despite being in similar situation not long ago. And I bet that without the uprated pads we'd have been in the back of that lorry...

Edited by dieselV6
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  • 2 months later...
britishmeat Enthusiast

britishmeat

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I am finally going to order my green stuff brake pads today font £50 and rear £30 (is that a good price?)

I also want some new discs i was hoping just standard ones would be ok???? what sort of price are they???

Also what brake fluid should i order and how much of it do i need? and cost???

Also is there anyone near Peterborough who would help me change, can most probably do pads and disks but not Fluid?

Many thanks

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Bluefox Proficient

Bluefox

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I am finally going to order my green stuff brake pads today font £50 and rear £30 (is that a good price?)

I also want some new discs i was hoping just standard ones would be ok???? what sort of price are they???

Also what brake fluid should i order and how much of it do i need? and cost???

Also is there anyone near Peterborough who would help me change, can most probably do pads and disks but not Fluid?

Many thanks

Personally I'd go for standard discs and a couple of litres of 5.1 fluid.

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sidewaze samm Rising Star

sidewaze samm

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Meat (Hmm... not sure about shortening your monicker like that :rolleyes:)

I was just wondrin'... as it's 2 months between date of the OP and the last post, have you not done many miles since the warning came on?

Anybody know what % of pad is supposed to be left when the sensor activates?

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cheezemonkhai Grand Master

cheezemonkhai

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RE Brake Fluids:

http://briskoda.net/maintenance-performance/brake-fluids-hopefully-definitive-thread/65339/

I'd go for the GSF Jurid pads myself.

I run EBC redstuff ceramic on the front and I'm very happy with them, but if you think the existing stopping power is ok then the GSF ones are half the price and sold as OEM quality.

Now while i state I'm an EBC fan for the reds, I wouldn't touch the greens with somebody elses bargepole.

Regarding the discs, if you have the 288 or 312mm discs with ATE callipers then the discs are 25mm new and 23mm worn out.

If you can feel a lip on the disk that looks around 1mm it's probably time for new discs. If you can't measure this, then discs usually last two pairs of pads, but if you're unsure it's better to change them early.

On the fluid front, I'd pay the £30 to get a garage to do it as if done wrong you can destroy the master cylinder seals and that's not cheap to fix. If they break it they have to pay, if you get it wrong it's a big bill.

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