Hello mate do you work for the vSport in Boldon, Tyne and Wear? Had mine rolling roared there back in November past year I think :-) Made 154bhp and 290lbs/CT standard and was thinking if it was worth it to get it mapped? If you do workthere would it me possible for me to drop by sometime for a spin in your car to compare? Im really close too, live in Hebburn

To alter the pressures on the airbox to find an optimum value we use a very simple method. A hole is drilled into the underside of the airbox and a rubber tube (o/d of about 24mm) is then bonded into place. We then place a copper tube (od of about 20mm) with 1 end closed off and holes drilled up the length of the tube into the rubber tube and measure the pressure seen in the airbox under varying loads with the copper tube pulled out to different lengths to expose more holes. (very simple manual bypass valve system) The airbox pressure under varying loads and airspeeds (measured in cfm and confirmed by g/s by AFM readings) will change, what will be optimum at 1800 rpm may not be ideal at 4000 rpm so you need to find a happy medium. Some more modern vehicles get around this by having varying length intakes or intake systems that have valves to reduce or increase intake runner/airbox pressures at varying revs/loads.

Once you find the optimum point you can measure the extra volume of air or amount of pressure you need to relieve and convert this into a size value, easiest way to build this into the box is to drill a hole to the correct size. Another method is to cut a square from the airbox and build in a sliding cover that can be opened or closed to give the desired apeture.

Cool!

So, would I be correct in thinking that to recreate the extra volume of air available to the filter, one need not do the PD160 mod (new pipe and horn), but simply should drill a hole of a specific diameter into the airbox?

Further, what would be the net effect on engine performance if one were to remove the pipe and horn altogether, leaving only the filter in place, hypothetically speaking?

Cool!

So, would I be correct in thinking that to recreate the extra volume of air available to the filter, one need not do the PD160 mod (new pipe and horn), but simply should drill a hole of a specific diameter into the airbox?

Further, what would be the net effect on engine performance if one were to remove the pipe and horn altogether, leaving only the filter in place, hypothetically speaking?

you are thinking right, the PD160 is a simple and effective mod but for the cost it can be done a lot cheaper. Its worth keeping the original pipe in place as a cold air feed.

Hello mate do you work for the vSport in Boldon, Tyne and Wear? Had mine rolling roared there back in November past year I think :-) Made 154bhp and 290lbs/CT standard and was thinking if it was worth it to get it mapped? If you do workthere would it me possible for me to drop by sometime for a spin in your car to compare? Im really close too, live in Hebburn

Yes I do, send me a copy of your graph and I will look at it for you, fantastic figures for a standard car! sure it hasnt been mapped? (feel free to bring it in, I will be happy to read the ecu file to confirm if it is standard or not)

So what bilstein suspension you going for? B8 dampers or your opting for the B14/B16?

you are thinking right, the PD160 is a simple and effective mod but for the cost it can be done a lot cheaper. Its worth keeping the original pipe in place as a cold air feed.

OK, so where do I drill and what diameter for that PD160 effect?

so have you managed to get a look at the differences in airflow yet Dave?

suspension fitted, and a cupra front splitter:

not the best pic but ill get some better ones next week.

what suspension kit is that?

Just need some Eyebrows now

Car is looking great + A nice graph

what suspension kit is that?

its an Apex -35mm kit with a slight mod on the rear springs. I have been selling apex stuff for years and always recieved great feeedback from my customers, its probably the best 'budget' stuff there is. I usually fit the bilstein B12 kits on my own cars but after driving a Vrs with the Apex kit on I decided that spending the extra wasnt necessary, fantastic handling and perfect feel with ride quality that is extremely good. Better than the Koni/eibach combination in my opinion. After all, its only a road car.

it looks much lower than -35mm ?

I cant find any Apex springs listed for the vRS.

Looks good though.

For some reason nobody lists the Apex kit for the Vrs but it is in the full dealer catalogue.

Ahh....explains it !

I did find one, but it says -35mm, (less lowering on vRS) :confused:

Edited 1 September, 200817 yr by Johnny50

you are right, however the front on mine has dropped from a ride height of 360mm (from hub centre to arch) to 325mm so the 35mm is correct. however, the rear springs need a slight mod to get them to sit right on the Vrs, nothing major though.

care to share

the outside edge of the bottom spring coil needs grinding back slightly as the next coil up sits on top of it and causes the spring to seat on an angle, its not a manufacturing defect they are designed that way to give the spring a shape. By removing this edge the spring sits flatter and the car sits 5mm lower giving an exact 35mm drop all round

however, I wouldnt reccoment going anywhere near a spring with a grinder unless you are 100% sure you know what you are doing.

new brakes fitted, 312 callipers from a 225 TT and brembo discs with mintex pads:

really pleased with them considering they are such a cheap upgrade.

your cars starting to take shape very quickly

You're not going to paint your brake components then?

Looking good!

the callipers and carriers are painted silver, may do them green one day when I get a chance.

Coming along nicelly!

"Standard" didnt last then!

Blimey - fast work

What's next??

Steve

next is some HID's which will go on tomorrow, then I need to shell out £12k on some new remapping software and hardware so mods will stop for a while :(

but then probably a front mount and a hybrid turbo