Skoda FELICIA 1.9 diesel (starting probs)

[TeflonTom]

yeah, but it would be noisy, but remember they are there for a reason, they alter the torque characteristics of the engine

[oldskool]

Okay heres what i can remember about deisels- When starting from cold the fueling stays the same but the pump timing is advanced (it alters the delay period from injection to combustion (this what causes the deisel knock and is louder when cold)). Not sure what the system is on a felly but it will be either an additional cable, to the accelerator cable, on the pump which runs to a "block" fixed into the cooling system somewhere, or it will be electronically controlled within the pump via the pcm/ecu and the coolant sensor. With the early cable type the cable should be at rest when cold the pump at full advance and as it warms up the cable tightens and reduces the advance,if it doesn't check the cable moves at all, it may mean you need to replace the block and cable as a unit. If its electronic time to get multimeters and wiring diags out, and check the voltage or resistance changes as the coolant warms up. When you disconnect the sensor the pcm probably goes into a default timing position biased toward warm starting and would explain why it goes like stink with the timing slightly advanced all the time and with the sensor connected makes warm starting harder. Hope this helps and makes sense feel free to ask questions:)

Edited 9 October, 2008 by oldskool

[TeflonTom]

on the lucas pump the injection timing is centrifugal, so it advances the injection as per engine speed.

the idle boost (speed,not timing) is vacuum operated but it has a solenoid to modulate the amount of vacuum applied to the valve assembly, without the idle boost actuator plugged in the engine will idle at normal warm idling speed as set by the throttle stop on the main throttle lever

[Uncorruptable]

Hello all,

The links above are dead, i have just gotten my felicia through its NCT (Equivilant to MOT in england), replaced 5th gear wheel, fixed linkage, replaced ball joints, replaced brakes, fixed boot closer, fixed horn & a few other littel bits.

Now it wont start when hot, car was lying up for two years & when i put it back on the road a month ago it would start from hot, i have unconnected vaccum hoses in the engine i have posted aboput on another thread, is this the cause or is it to do with the fuel pump as touched on above?

The car runs very smooth when on motorway, starts from cold etc., any ideas as i am having to unplug the temp sensor to get it started from hot & had to unplug it to get it through the car test.

[skaifan]

I had the same problem with my diesel felly. I replaced the battery and it has been fine ever since. I would suggest getting the battery tested,as if it is donw on power, it wont have enough to crank the engine hard enough without the help of the glow plugs.

[Uncorruptable]

New battery in it, it starts perfectly fine from cold, when it is hot it wont fire up, tuurns over but wont kick in until temp sensor is removed temporarily.

[rolo]

Temp sensor circuit is wrong resistance, new vw sensor is first check.

[Uncorruptable]

replace sensor, roughly how much we looking at for that, is there any DIY round that?

[rolo]

`bout £30ish. Very simple to change, less than 5mins.

[haribo(felicia)]

if the sensor change doesnt work it could be the bushes on the starter motor i had problems on my mitsubishi delica where it started fine from cold due to the glow plugs warming the fuel but when the engine was warm or hot the starter turnded but not fast enough to fire the car up hth nigel