Got no idea how to fix, pls help.

[Gezza VRS]

Hi guys, I'm a bit of a newb. Bought my Octy in Sept. Shes done 80k, mint condition. (so I thought). She started to judder in low revs. Especailly in 1st and 2nd when driving slow. The idiling was a bit erratic too.

I sent her in to my local garage, he plugged it in to his VAG-com and it didn't through up any faults :confused:

So I took the throttle bodies apart and gave them a 3 hour deep clean. But still the problem was there.

I'm now wondering if it just needs a remap or not. If so I might as well go to revo if its not faulty. I've heard cars can go out of sink after a while.

Or could it be the turbo? Theres no blue smoke and I've changed the turbo idle value just in case it was that, but no.

Any help would be great. I'll try and fix before I send it into Skoda as a last resort. I know they'll just bend me over and bum rape my wallet.

Cheers in advance.

[Lex Dysia]

Hi guys, I'm a bit of a newb. Bought my Octy in Sept. Shes done 80k, mint condition. (so I thought). She started to judder in low revs. Especailly in 1st and 2nd when driving slow. The idiling was a bit erratic too.

Is this just after starting? Reason I ask is the secondary air system operates on start up for about a minute and it can run like crap while its on. Some of us sit and wait for the revs to drop to 1000 before setting off due to this. HTH

[Rich.H]

it is worth checking the small hose that connect to the underside of the inlet manifold, this is a take off fronm the crank breather but recently i have sortted 3 octy's with the same problem where this hose has split. This isn't always picked up on the VAG software, however the snap on diagnostic picks up an emmision control fault. Easy to check, run the engine and push the hoses about at the back of the dipstick, you can hear it 'hissin' if its split. Also as above, but i would have expected VAG software to pick up a fault if the secondary air pump was playing up.

[Lex Dysia]

Also as above, but i would have expected VAG software to pick up a fault if the secondary air pump was playing up.

I wasn't suggesting it was playing up it's just it's been well reported on here that when the secondary air pump is active at start up these engines run juddery and rev high, mine starts at 1200rpm dropping to 1000rpm (and drive's like a dog during this time) as the pump stops finally settling at 800ish after a few minutes. Thats why I try to wait for the pump to stop so I don't kangaroo down the road like a learner driver

[Gezza VRS]

ok matey I'll try both sugestions in the morning. Its just thrown up a yellow engine managent light on the dash. I guess the VAG should pick up a fault now. I've booked her in the skoda dealership in Hereford tomorrow. I'm sure I'll walk in there with and 5p bum hole and walk out with a 50p one.... Tryed looking for the hissing noise and found nothing.

It seems to idle and drop, then it will almost stall after a fast run when idleing again.

LEX, ur problem is very simalar, i get the kangaroo jumps when in 1st and 2nd but she does it all the time, not just after warming up. I had a simalar problem on my Nissan pulsar but turned out to be the lamda.

hmmmm

cheers

[Lex Dysia]

I'm sure I'll walk in there with and 5p bum hole and walk out with a 50p one....

I reckon it'll be more like a sovereign by the time they finish

[martziniuk]

I presume its a 1.8T of some sort?

Its not misfiring is it?

These cars are well known for blowing coil packs

[jonnycatbiscuit]

how many miles should a coil pack last? (this is not a joke)

[martziniuk]

How longs a piece of string..

My J revision coils lasted 100k until i changed plugs and never gapped them properly, i then lost two in one go. The older H revision coils were the problem ones iirc.

[Gezza VRS]

no buddy its not miss fireing. I know a missfire when i hear one. I bought a vag lead and its thrown up the Lamnda sensour. So its time to get my hands dirty. Once done hopefully its all good. Time for Revo to get their grubby little mitts on her.

Quick question as I'm new to this site, how do you access your threads quickly you've started. Rather than fish through the old ones to find the one you've started.

Massive thanks for all ur guys help. Much better answers than my old GTiR site. Every answer was normally a **** take in some form or another.

[chicken_eyebrow]

You should be able to go to your profile and see what threads you've been most active in.

Or set yourself to be subscribed to any threads you start that way you should get an email when someone replies

(Thread tools at the top of the thread > subscribe to this thread)

HTH

[karlbar2k]

So I took the throttle bodies apart and gave them a 3 hour deep clean. But still the problem was there.

When you did the cleaning did you unplug the Throttle connector? if so did you do throttle body reset with VAG COM when you put it back together?

[Gezza VRS]

When you did the cleaning did you unplug the Throttle connector? if so did you do throttle body reset with VAG COM when you put it back together?

my mechanics garage did a basis reset after i was done so yes. I noticed the engine magament lights gone. Skoda garage threw up a lambda sensour failure but I'm not convinced. The symtoms are different. Gonna check thoses two pipes under the metal plate, see if there corroded or not. Temp sensour needs changing. IF that don't work I'll change the lamda.

Fingers crossed. I take it this juddering business is a comon fault with these VRS'. Noticed alot of threads about it.

[David 8]

Skoda garage threw up a lambda sensour failure but I'm not convinced. .

Did it show a lambda fault code or are they just guessing ???

[KenONeill]

First thought was secondary air pump, and second was split vacumn hose.

As many many other threads, there is no cure for the SAP; just wait for the revs to drop before driving off from cold.

The split hose needs careful examination of all the vacumn and crankcase ventilation hoses.

[karlbar2k]

:iagree: took me a while to find the split in mine. as it was such a big hole it made no hissing noise..:thumbdwn: the pipes really do get brittle as well so beware when moving things around (especially near the dipstick - cheap enough but a swine of a job to replace)