has anyone got VAG COM in kent?

I could do with remapping my felly, but i dont know if it is out?

Because I've unplugged the ECU, to reset the stupid thing when it was playing up.

But I have a feeling its running on the base emergency settings,

all modern vechiles ECU's have it its like a fail safe, incase something goes wrong, it can run with less power but runs perfectly, it runs as if it was taken to mt everest it could run with different air pressure, It would fall back to that setting. FOR EXAMPLE. (i know thats impossible to drive a skoda felicia up a mountain:rofl:)

Fuel economy is crappy, where it wasnt before. So I think a remap maybe good.

Oh I found out where to get it if you want to buy it though.

VAG-COM diagnostic tool in the ilexa web shop

Is this any good?

Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Downloads: Which One?

You can't remap with VAG-COM, but you can use it to carry out throttle adaptation on the Felicia.

ah i see,

can you tell me anything else it can do with the felly?

can it reset base settings?

Im very interested to know, I might buy one.

AFAIK a Felicia doesnt have modern failsafes I think you mean a sort of "limp mode"

But I've never used diag equipment on mine so I'm clueless.

all ecu's have the fail safes.

That was the idea otherwise the cars would be useless.

If it's the same as the 1.3 ECU I think what you have to do is drive it like you stole it and it then adjusts it's self to your driving style.

it depends what it was that caused it to go into LOS mode (limited operating strategy)... if it is because of a lost or implausable signal or short or similar it wont matter how ard' you drive you aint gonna fix it, if however is was because the battery went or after the replacement of an offending sensor/actuator then you should be ok

my dad shorted the battery accidently when fitting the sound system, torsion bar in way.

The car had a hissy fit, and wouldnt tick over, so it was impossible to drive with out revving it with the clutch in, and to stop, its very difficult i dont suggest trying it.

So i unplugged the top of the ecu, left it then plugged it back in and it sorted itself out, Well it went into, as tom rightly says limited operating strategy!

And the battery dies so often, because the sound system used to drain it, so now ive disconnected the ss and battery life is hugely improved.

So Tom how do i reset it to std? vag com? or £100 for a dealer to do it,

Which is ok untill the battery dies again, so another £100 every time the battery dies.

A sound system shouldn't drain the battery significantly. One issue with the felicia is the switched live wire on the stereo loom is constantly live unless modified, and this can lead to battery drain. For everything else you could wire it into the switched ignition live with a relay to give power to the subwoofer and amps etc so they're only powered with the car running.

tbh i expect you've goosed the ecu by shorting the battery

well yes,

but is it repairable? the car runs fine ever since i messed with the ecu ageeeeeeees ago, just crappy fuel economy and what could be ****e performance?

The sound system has a power capacitor and i thought this reduced battery drain, well I unplugged the sound system master fuse and the car hasn't died in months.

So i've only got the front speakers and headunit working, which is a shame i spent so much money on the sound system that i cant use bcos the car dies after 2 days.

The sound system has a power capacitor and i thought this reduced battery drain,

My understanding is a capacitor stores power so it is available for the sound system, so if there's a sudden loud bang and crash in the audio - it can get it from the capacitor rather than the battery. I think unless it had some way of switching off it would drain the battery.

yeah it was live constantly with the car electrics, since it was part of the loom.

When i alarmed the car, it was taking it from the power cap instead of the battery.

however was like the power cap when not being used, earthed its power out slowly and therefore would be a constant drain when the ss is not in use? - I think its quite possible

My understanding is a capacitor stores power so it is available for the sound system, so if there's a sudden loud bang and crash in the audio - it can get it from the capacitor rather than the battery. I think unless it had some way of switching off it would drain the battery.

That's correct. In this context the cap is connected across the battery, and charges to battery voltage. A sudden power demand from the sound system drains it again- the idea is the cap is a very low impedance source and you use heavy cables to the amplifier from it, so the amp always gets the high current it wants for peaks.

Capacitors leak though, so if it's permanently connected it will be a constant drain.

right awesome, so that answers my theory.

But how can i stop it from being permanently connected?

Other than taking the fuse out, the only way i can see is a huge switch?

Also Tom if your about? is my ecu wrecked?

right awesome, so that answers my theory.

But how can i stop it from being permanently connected?

Other than taking the fuse out, the only way i can see is a huge switch?

Use a relay to feed it, and switch the relay from an ignition-switched supply.

Huge switch capable of handling the amps, or the best option is a relay switched on and off by the switched ignition live wire. What it will do is sit along the wire between the fuse and capacitor (connected to terminals 30 and 87). A wire tapped into the switched ignition live and an earth (connected to terminals 85 and 86) would make a connection between 30 and 87 only when the ignition is on.

right awesome, so that answers my theory.

But how can i stop it from being permanently connected?

Other than taking the fuse out, the only way i can see is a huge switch?

Also Tom if your about? is my ecu wrecked?

look at the stereo /head unit wiring, there is a wire, most of the time blue, it funtion is to run a relay to other amps and accesories, wen you turn of the radio, the signal from that cable (i belive is 5volts) cuts out wich in turn turns off all relays you have conected to it, i recommend ocnectin 1 relay for every accesorie or power amp you have, instead of running all from one, after the relay connect a fuse (this is very important) for the correct amps you need for the system your powering, after the fuse conect a capasitor of twice the voltage and the same ammount of amps as the fuse in the accesorie/power amp your installing

another layer that might help is to install a small gle batery like the ones use for inverters in the trunk and run everything from that (depending on the ammount of amps you might need two or more small gel bateries), if the reason for the drain is a short the first fuse will go out, if amplifier need more power capasitor will provide it, and wen you turn off the radio the relays will shut down everything safely for you... oh! and make sure you have good eath wiring for all the amps you might have

hope it helps,