Hello

I bought my Skoda Octavia Elegance Estate 1.9 of my Dad last month.

1 owner car with 35k on a 54 plate.

A few years ago he had a turbo issue with it and Skoda replaced the turbo under warrenty.

Last week when driving into town I hit 3k revs in 2nd and it died. Felt like there was no turbo, no pull over 2k revs at all :(

Did the same last night, 3k revs...dies

Does it need another turbo ? Once switched of and left for 10 mins runs fine and doesn't die every time ??

Also when cold it seams to cough at 2.5k revs ?? I don't like to rev cars hard from cold but sometime need to pulling out on to a main road from our house.

Any help would be great...

I don't have these problems with my Lotus

Cheers

Neil

Edited 17 November, 200817 yr by njr911

Have you checked all the hoses are connected properly between the turbo, intercooler and throttle body?

Do you get any warning lights on the dash?

no warning lights on the dash.

If a hose was lose wouldn't it be down on turbo all the time ?

Sticking turbo vane iirc are common problems have a search in the mk1 octy section for it and all will be reaveled

sticking turbo vane, thought this might be the issue.

Will this cause the cough too ?

Not sure as I drive a petrol tbh.

I'm sure someone who knows more than me will come along shortly.

I can't help either, probably because, even though I do drive a TDi, I tend to upshift about 2500, or even sometimes less.

I can't help either, probably because, even though I do drive a TDi, I tend to upshift about 2500, or even sometimes less.

I think that's the reason why I have problems now...My dad is Driving Miss Daisy

I live revvy cars, my old daily drive was a Civic Type R :P

bloody 30k miles and two turbo faults...I thought German cars were reliable

I think that's the reason why I have problems now...My dad is Driving Miss Daisy

I live revvy cars, my old daily drive was a Civic Type R :P

Ah, that's almost certainly it.

Run a site search for "cleaning VVT".

If a Sticking Turbo it should be Ok immediately after you switch it back on, it resets automatically. The vanes are designed to give alot of boost at low revs to reduce lag then as the turbo spins up they adjust. If sticking they would give tooooooooooo much boost & the car detects this & switchesback everything to save it going pop. switching the Ignition off & on clears it until the next time. Its a newish turbo so can be cleaned, do a search on here for a how to do or who to use threads. If its been driven gently its a classic problem. Diesels need to be used to keep them sweet but you dont have to rag them everywhere, just boot it occasionally to keep things clean. They normally manage 100K so your dad must be a really gentle driver

They normally manage 100K so your dad must be a really gentle driver

2 in 35k miles is **** poor wether he drives like a girl or not :thumbdwn:

It does sound like the issue though. restart and boost comes back.

Will rag it on the way home and see what happens

2 in 35k miles is **** poor wether he drives like a girl or not :thumbdwn:

It does sound like the issue though. restart and boost comes back.

Will rag it on the way home and see what happens

If it does it again & your sensible about it find a straight, dip clutch, switch off & on a few seconds later whilst still rolling & it should be back BUT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!remember clear road etc as for a few secs you will have no power steering no abs, no servo assisted brakes etc & DONT DONT DONT Take the key out or you will have locked steering as well. Dont think what twit would as I know someone who did, thankfully we all survived !!!

If it does it again & your sensible about it find a straight, dip clutch, switch off & on a few seconds later whilst still rolling & it should be back BUT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!remember clear road etc as for a few secs you will have no power steering no abs, no servo assisted brakes etc & DONT DONT DONT Take the key out or you will have locked steering as well. Dont think what twit would as I know someone who did, thankfully we all survived !!!

Well, actually you will have enough vacumn in the servo for 1 emergency stop. You're correct about the key and PAS though (but the PAS means Power Assisted; you just need more muscle to turn the wheel).

I drive a Lotus Elise through the summer with no power stearing or servo'd brakes so I have manly arms and thight of steel

Well, actually you will have enough vacumn in the servo for 1 emergency stop. You're correct about the key and PAS though (but the PAS means Power Assisted; you just need more muscle to turn the wheel).

Agreed aboput the brakes but I didnt want to say that.

Re the Key out, it happened to me many years ago when cars had locking aerials. We were in a M8's Mini & he had removed the key, would down the window & was trying to unlock the aerial that was at the back of the front wing when someone reminded him about the steering lock. A few seconds of panic ensued, We were doing 70 ish on a dual carriageway at the time, one of many early mini experiences.

I can't help either, probably because, even though I do drive a TDi, I tend to upshift about 2500, or even sometimes less.

NJR, good luck getting it sorted, hopefully it can be cleaned out easily and cheaply for you. i tend to change at 2K in town driving, 2.5-3 k in moderate driving and about once a week I'll take it to 4K in 2nd/3rd/4th gears to give it a clean out.

30k is lower than I have seen one. First things first, get a full fault code scan and let us know what it says. It's pretty simple to test the actuator via a vacuum pump to test the diaghpragm and VNT vanes them selves, and an N75 output cycle in vag-com and vacuum gauge to determine control issues.

Greg.

It had done it before when it was a year old acording to my Dad. Skoda thought it was the air flow meter/sensor but changed the turbo anyway?

So I doubt it can have clogged again in 20k miles ??

I took it to 3k rpm when cold but it didn't go into limp ?

Strange

3_000 and no limp home suggests it's not a VVT issue. Next thing to do is check the relevant forum and see if someone near you has VAG-COM and can read fault codes.

http://briskoda.net/diagnostics-vag-com/vag-com-owners-map/80992/

It had done it before when it was a year old acording to my Dad. Skoda thought it was the air flow meter/sensor but changed the turbo anyway?

So I doubt it can have clogged again in 20k miles ??

I took it to 3k rpm when cold but it didn't go into limp ?

Strange

It usually starts failing in the upper gears when under load. ours started letting go in top when it had been on full throttle for a while, usually 80-90 mph & then over time became more & more frequent & under less load.

I would agree with other comments that it sounda well worth checking other things first, its very unlikely to be this at such low mileage, I assume the stealer did actually change the turbo ?

Just thinking aloud here but what could it be some king of overheating problem. I know heatsoak saps power from the turbo and when you say it does it after prolonged throttle it just made me think this.

Are engine temps normal?

Just thinking aloud here but what could it be some king of overheating problem. I know heatsoak saps power from the turbo and when you say it does it after prolonged throttle it just made me think this.

Are engine temps normal?

If your replying to my post it was definately the Turbo, it was like treacle inside. We did prolong it by tweaking the map to reduce the boost but in the end it started again & steadily got worse

I see where you are going with that, but I have had them in with no limp mode and code, ever, and TOTALLY seized vnt. Because the VNT was seized in low boost. If it gets sticky prior to seizing, it can 'flip' between getting stuck on high boost and getting stuck on low boost, creating some strange symptoms.

I like to put a vacuum pump on the actuator, manually operate it and take the readings - that's pretty conclusive as far as the vanes go.

Greg.

3_000 and no limp home suggests it's not a VVT issue. Next thing to do is check the relevant forum and see if someone near you has VAG-COM and can read fault codes.