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golf mk2 gti conversion

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thanks for the info, im seriously considering just buying a gti now after all this, because like its been said to me a thousand times im just making a car thats allready ready to be brought and it will only take about 2/3 weekends to prep this car to be sold...

Are you just doing up a car to sell it on???? Why? You'll lose money like no tomorrow. The only reason to fettle a car of this age is to make it faster/better and to keep it. If it is to sell on then just do as little as possible/nothing and sell it as a runner or for scrap. Sorry if this sounds harsh, but that is the way it is. There are loads of cheep Golfs out there - for this very reason. Even a highly modded one will be even harder to shift for not much more than the same standard model.

If you want to have fun and get your hands dirty and keep the car do this - buy a MK2 16V GTi with the best body work you can find. Dont worry about the engine - as long as it runs and does not smoke too much you'll be fine - you'll be replacing it with an ABF block anyway ;)

Spend your time and money and blood on doing the suspension, bushes, brakes and engine mounts. Don't bother with the exhaust - they flow well as standard. Drop in the ABF engine on the KR injection and you'll be smiling all the way to Autumn when you flog it and buy a Furby for the winter :)

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I second that!

You would find it difficult to make a profit on most modified cars,

Get as good a shell as possible and start from there, i have a left hooker and its shell is so much better than my other uk mk2 becuase it was waxoiled from new to cope with the harsh winters in germany, as such its shell is mint, thats what you should look for, a good shell and then you have a good base car otherwise it can get very expensive.As golf-fiend said, the other parts including engine can be replaced after as required.

  • Author
Are you just doing up a car to sell it on???? Why? You'll lose money like no tomorrow. The only reason to fettle a car of this age is to make it faster/better and to keep it. If it is to sell on then just do as little as possible/nothing and sell it as a runner or for scrap. Sorry if this sounds harsh, but that is the way it is. There are loads of cheep Golfs out there - for this very reason. Even a highly modded one will be even harder to shift for not much more than the same standard model.

If you want to have fun and get your hands dirty and keep the car do this - buy a MK2 16V GTi with the best body work you can find. Dont worry about the engine - as long as it runs and does not smoke too much you'll be fine - you'll be replacing it with an ABF block anyway ;)

Spend your time and money and blood on doing the suspension, bushes, brakes and engine mounts. Don't bother with the exhaust - they flow well as standard. Drop in the ABF engine on the KR injection and you'll be smiling all the way to Autumn when you flog it and buy a Furby for the winter :)

noooo noo misunderstood me

i meant fix the buggered mount thats on it and weld the exhaust up and tax/mot it then sell it

but as i keep being told i may well keep this for panels and then break it for bits later and buy a gti to do all the work too

its a project for myself that i want, to put a gti engine in this then insure it is more money than too buy a gti anyway

i keep changing my mind! but as it stands i have this golf and dont know what to do

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I second that!

You would find it difficult to make a profit on most modified cars,

Get as good a shell as possible and start from there, i have a left hooker and its shell is so much better than my other uk mk2 becuase it was waxoiled from new to cope with the harsh winters in germany, as such its shell is mint, thats what you should look for, a good shell and then you have a good base car otherwise it can get very expensive.As golf-fiend said, the other parts including engine can be replaced after as required.

the shell on this is solid, no rust or welding ever been done (no rust minus the rear lower arches, easy fix) the only bit i dont like is its a 5 door not a 3

but thats not much of a problem i can make rear interior up to suit that, eg. open the door one side too see a few amps on a rack all shiny and nice, other side find a few speakers or screens

but thats way way way out at the end of the line

ok simply put, i have a solid shell right now, a 5 door 1.3 golf.

or i could go out and buy a gti and still do the same work to the car except maybe not swap the engine but tune it instead

what you think?

Well i think......you havent got a clue what you want;)

Decide on your engine and go from there!

  • Author
Well i think......you havent got a clue what you want;)

Decide on your engine and go from there!

:rofl: nope i havn't

ok time to stop messing, 1.8 16v 138 bhp?? thats good enough for me.

if noone can give me a reason against, the 1.3 is coming out on satday and going on ebay sunday to raise cash enough for a decent engine

Edited by ChrisCrashTM
because im a 'tard

The first link (clean engine) - go for that one. The other looks like a dog. A dog I would not even kick.

I have bought more KR's than I care to remember - all for the same car. I bought cheap and I bought again and again. They are solid engines if looked after. If they have been neglected (second item) i.e. poor service history, oil changes etc then they will fail like any other engine. The biggest problem is blocked pickups on the oil pump. This restricts the flow, lowers the delivery pressure and knackers the top and bottom end bearing shells. Don't buy one off e-bay. Go to a VW breakers and look at them. Ask if you can drop the sump pan off and look for "silver cornflakes" in the bottom of the pan - walk away.

If you have registered on Club GTI you can post on the Parts Wanted/For Sale. There are loads of guys buying and selling engines - upgrades to VR6's , ABFs 20Vt etc etc. Many will have a goof KR block for sale.

If you go for a KR I even have a polished upper inlet manifold for sale - it's been in my loft for 6 years so I might be generous on the price ;)

  • Author

thanks, how much would you advise on bidding?

  • Author

and how much do you have in mind for the polished inlet manifold?

:)

tbh neither of those engines will be much use to you without all the fuel injection gear, strangely the first one has a mk1 golf engine mounting fitted to it...

Can I confuse the issue further by saying that IIRC there were some mk2 GTi 5 doors?

  • Author
Can I confuse the issue further by saying that IIRC there were some mk2 GTi 5 doors?

may have ben but im not a fan of 5 dors :)

engines out il have a go at posting pictures in a min, do i have to pay to put a thred in the project section?

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tbh neither of those engines will be much use to you without all the fuel injection gear, strangely the first one has a mk1 golf engine mounting fitted to it...

what do you suggest? is there a 2.0 16v with carbs? or are you thining of a different engine alltogether?

no no, what i'm saying iis that both of those listings are for what is basically a bare engine... you need all the k-jet gear/hoses/flow meter to go with it

  • Author
no no, what i'm saying iis that both of those listings are for what is basically a bare engine... you need all the k-jet gear/hoses/flow meter to go with it

i see, i posted a thread up in projects so im not going to post in here anymore because its probarbly bugging people by now :) have a look at the pics in projects:thumbup:

like the pics so far, engine out already!

Ok will make it simple, the 2ltr 16v is good for around 180(ish) bhp WITH a fair amount of modification ie cams, head work (polish and porting) warm up regulator modification (stealth a vw tuner do this), but all this wont be cheap to do unless you buy a modified 2ltr already, mine is a conversion by oettinger and has had some serious money spent in parts by the previous owner.

Bare in mind 16valvers need lots of revving to work and to get much more power than 180ish is not so easy.

Sooooooo, i would say if around 180 bhp is enough AND you dont want to tune more in the future without considering a turbo conversion and spending lots more (like the golf Limited which runs a 1.8 g60 supercharged 16v lump which is an awesome engine) then get the 16 valver.

If however you want more power than 180bhp (lets face it the reason we all play with our cars is to improve them) then i would get the 20vt engine from an octavia or better still the 225 BAM engine from a tt.

Honestly, if it was me, i would go 20vt all the way, as for pure cost reliability and future tuneability this engine is by far the best way forward. My engine is tuned pretty much as much as possible without losing reliability and without spending a fortune, and as we all know, after a while a fast car seems slow, which is why we always tune.

You can pick up an engine and gearbox with low miles on fleabay for 1200ish (give or take) and you wouldnt need to really tune it other than a remap. If you did want to tune later on, look at the figures some of the guys like Steevie Wonder is getting from his engine, serious power!!!

Now im not saying you need those kind of figures but the potential is always there!

Your choice dude!

what do you suggest? is there a 2.0 16v with carbs? or are you thining of a different engine alltogether?

Not as standard, but I know someone who's running one of that engine family on twin Weber 40s (weekend car), so it can be done.

  • Author

can anyone tell me if there would be any trouble fitting a left hand drive gold engine in my right hand drive golf?

i know this question might sound stupid, but i guess it is better to make sure, as i have found an engine and gearbox with all ancilleries, wiring loom and ecu for £200

Not as standard, but I know someone who's running one of that engine family on twin Weber 40s (weekend car), so it can be done.

Yep, I know someone with that setup. Not cheap though :).

can anyone tell me if there would be any trouble fitting a left hand drive gold engine in my right hand drive golf?

i know this question might sound stupid, but i guess it is better to make sure, as i have found an engine and gearbox with all ancilleries, wiring loom and ecu for £200

No problems.

Oh and how much for the new speedo head?

Sorry, did not see this

£30 delivered?

  • Author

that will be ok mate, if you can keep it for me for a bit untill i sort out this engine (Y)

that will be ok mate, if you can keep it for me for a bit untill i sort out this engine (Y)

pm me when you are ready

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