Ive been having loads of problems with my vrs since i bought it 5months ago,it was letting boost pressure off to early and lagging and then looseing all engine power for about 1/2 a second but only on soft acceleration when trying to pull away from lights or the kerb,for about the last 2weeks its been stuttering under hard acceleration and seems to be looseing the boost sometimes,i had it in the skoda dealers they said it was a faulty dv valve so i bought a forge one from awesome gti(still the same prob wasted 70quid what skoda charged for looking at the car but got a nice dv from awesome )so i email awesome and asked them if they new what the problem might be...within an hour they emailed me back and said that it sounds like the n75valve was faulty so i ordered one

fitted it today and bang

the car runs sweet as a nut

putting my cai back on tommorrow see if its still running ok

so if any of you have a problem with your car you carn't fix,it might be worth giving them a ring

:rofl:

Edited 25 January, 200917 yr by HaRRyBoNgO(uK)

Glad youve got it sorted

Was it an OE one or have you gone down the H/J route?

Phil

Was it an OE one or have you gone down the H/J route?

Phil

no i got the standard one 39.95 ..i looked at a few old threads and it seems the h and j can send it into limp mode,so i thought i would go standard till i got the problem sorted,,has any one fitted the h or j valve without problems:confused:

Edited 25 January, 200917 yr by HaRRyBoNgO(uK)

I've fitted the N75J valve to mine and it runns sweet. Holds more boost for longer.

I have the H valve and after trying both standard and H on a remapped car I would say the difference is significant.

Holds boost for far longer over the standard N75.

H and J do seem to be hit and miss though, some cars like them and others don't. Fortunatley mine loves it

I've the same problem, when accelerating VERY lightly in 1st and 2nd, low revs (1000-1500) sometimes it just "dies" for a second, no power and i can hear something (turbo) spooling down. Then it's back and flies. I might try changing the n75 too, thanks

One question though: there is this ECS n75 valve on awesomegti's site. Any point in getting this one or should I go with a standard?

There is a lot of speculation on the ECS race valve. It is alleged to be a modded H valve. How you can modify an N75 is beyond me but I am no expert but it is definitely a H valve originally. As I said I went with the H as its cheaper than the ECS version and does what ECS claims theirs will do.

And this H version is available at a Skoda dealer or auto parts shop? I mean, I just show up and say "Howdy, I want a H N75 valve?" :tipspecs:

Audi dealers or online. I got mine from vagparts but their website is down at the moment.

I've the same problem, when accelerating VERY lightly in 1st and 2nd, low revs (1000-1500) sometimes it just "dies" for a second, no power and i can hear something (turbo) spooling down. Then it's back and flies. I might try changing the n75 too, thanks

One question though: there is this ECS n75 valve on awesomegti's site. Any point in getting this one or should I go with a standard?

I purchased this one and made a significant difference to my car. I also replaced the forge DV green spring to a yellow one and that also had an effect on my remapped motor. Holds boost better.

And this H version is available at a Skoda dealer or auto parts shop? I mean, I just show up and say "Howdy, I want a H N75 valve?" :tipspecs:

yep sounds the same as mine..the part number for the H valve from skoda is 06A-906-283-E (VALVE or VENTIL)

if you get one buy 3 small jubilee clips as well i could'nt get the old 1s back on mine

takes about 10mins to change:D

Edited 26 January, 200917 yr by HaRRyBoNgO(uK)

I purchased this one and made a significant difference to my car. I also replaced the forge DV green spring to a yellow one and that also had an effect on my remapped motor. Holds boost better.

Where do you get the yellow spring from :confused:and is it easy to fit:confused:

i might give it a go

I had exactly the same thing for months. The car would be fine one day and then run really sluggish the next, and the codes 17705 and 17545 were on and off all the time. Changed to a Forge DV, same problem; checked all the pipes, sparks, pumps etc etc, all fine; lastly, fitted a new standard N75 and… no fault codes and smooth boost for the last 3 months.

Glad you got it sorted because I know it can do your bonce in not knowing which car you're going to be driving each morning :confused:

Where do you get the yellow spring from :confused:and is it easy to fit:confused:

i might give it a go

Contact Forge on here, i to run the yellow spring as it seems more resonsive than the green. May have to sort an N75 valve out now, ongoing problem

Phil

Forgot to say Forge`s web site has a "how to" for the dv valve servicing

yep sounds the same as mine..the part number for the H valve from skoda is 06A-906-283-E (VALVE or VENTIL)

if you get one buy 3 small jubilee clips as well i could'nt get the old 1s back on mine

takes about 10mins to change:D

The part number on my N75H is 034 906 283 H :confused:

The part number on my N75H is 034 906 283 H :confused:

yeah the guy at skoda said they have changed the partnumber:rolleyes: and redused the price:thumbup:

dont no why though

maybe they had alot of failures of something

Contact Forge on here, i to run the yellow spring as it seems more resonsive than the green. May have to sort an N75 valve out now, ongoing problem

Phil

Forgot to say Forge`s web site has a "how to" for the dv valve servicing

thanks ill take have a look into it

Where do you get the yellow spring from :confused:and is it easy to fit:confused:

i might give it a go

If you have a recent purchased Forge DV you may get Forge to post you a free one, or at least a discounted one. To replace it you just unscrew the top of the DV take out old spring and drop in new one then screw back up. Job done.

The yellow spring is only required with certailn remaps though , IIRC it is the likes of revo and C/C

Sarah

Yellow spring is for remaps which give 15-20 psi IIRC. Could be wrong...

Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

That should help

Sarah