hi there i saw on youtube some one turbo a skoda favorit and wanted to know if any one knows how to do it and wot to use?

an injection model or a carb one?

i think a carb one would be easier. you can drop the compretion and just run the turbo between a TB and the inlet manifold.

but.... its not gunna last super long. unless you build the engine with engitec parts

I think you'll need a new exhaust manifold and/or a bracket to support the weight of the turbo, oh nad you'll need a pretty small turbo, something about the size of the one that the old MG Metro Turbo used to use. If you want to know what that was, I'd start with Wikipedia, and follow their links to enthusiast websites.

i hope i can encourage you away from the turbo and present you with a better, cheaper alternative... so here it goes;

if you want power, take it to the dyno adjust the valves clearance (a very small ammout goes a long way) i belive is the intake you change to 0.03mm less so that the valve stays open the longest to raise compression and get more mix in it will take you 20min (i belive dynos charge by the hour) then loosen the dizzy and change timing to get the best power/torque, i think switching to the highest ROZ with the ignition timing change does pump out more (haven't tested it yet), fit a good aftermarket filter and replace the exhaust tube with a 2" diameter one (i belive the stock is 1.5") switch to a bigger muffler and replace the middle one with a fiber straight muffler

also you can try putting in semi synthetic oil on both the engine and the transmition, i belive that they're lighter but wont affect the engine (i heard a guy here in my country that swapped the transmision oil for a 10W40 synth engine oil to get less waste in power from RR)

i belive yours is the monoinjection tipe, if this is correct google monojetronic tweak and there is a page that tell you how to get more power out of them (by changing the A/F mix to a richer one)

any ways, your basically eliminating the bottle necks and optimizing with the dyno, it all depends on how much you want out of the engine

I'm pretty certain that, as long as I can get the parts and an open budget, I could get any of these 1.3l engines to 120bhp non-turbo or so; some of the details would vary with the original spec, but we're definitely talking about race pistons and a works cam spec, new manifolds and carb or injectors, new cavum advance profile or remap. You get the idea.

glxi is injection surely??

it's fraught with headaches, aside from the actual mechanical changes you would need to make to the exhuast manifold to make a turbo fit, by far the most difficult bit is fueling it properly, plus you need to retard the ignition timing because of the extra heat in the combustion chambers.... it's not impossible but it wont be easy....

my gut feeling on questions like this, is if you have to ask then you cant do it... a tad harsh maybe

Pretty much as Tom says, except that I'm pretty sure that remapping isn't that huge of an issue as long as you go someplace that's used to developing maps properly, rather than just selling generics and possibly trimming them. I'm sure Tom can guess who I'm thinking of in this context (and I don't mean a Megasquirt!)

megasquit units are actually quite good, only trouble is you have to solder all the components on the circuit board yourself (unless they do indeed make them pre-made now) in essence it's the same as any other ecu but it relies on being mapped well by somebody who knows what they are doing

i also saw somewhere here a link to a company that actualy upgrades the 135 engine for performance, they change a couple of items in the engine, but a small turbo would not give you a lot of benefit compared to the weight of the price and engine life,

if you can get the link my advice is to call them up, change the parts and profile in the engine, tweak the exhaust and intake, and dyno tune it to youre hearts content

also as far as the ignition timing i see that you can remove the spring that handles the vacuum advance, so you can change it to a softer or harder spring to further tweak your ignition timing across all rpm and loads

i dont think the 1.3 engine is going to give you a wopping ammount of torque, but as Ken said, it is posible (without turbo) to get the engine to pump out 120 horse power

and considering the car is alredy light enough, thats good enough to get kill so put aside some budget for better breaks, wider tyres and stronger springs (and keep your seat belt on)

or shoe-horn a 2.0 engine in there:rolleyes:

megasquit units are actually quite good, only trouble is you have to solder all the components on the circuit board yourself (unless they do indeed make them pre-made now) in essence it's the same as any other ecu but it relies on being mapped well by somebody who knows what they are doing

That, in this context, was my issue with Megasquirt; they're very DIY, and I seriously doubt there'd be anything more than a "make it start so you can start mapping" map available for the application. If you can solder well, and there's a suitable base map for your engine and base tune already done, they're as good as anything else.

or shoe-horn a 2.0 engine in there:rolleyes:

no thats a silly idea. who would do that!

I can see the advantage of a turbo over just HP increase. To get 120 hp you'll end up with a peaky high revving engine, nice fun to drive but tiresome all the time if its an every day car. Whereas a turbo isn't just about hp its also about huge dollop of torque over standard without having to reprofile cams or make it a peaky engine, lots of power low down (if you use a small turbo that spools up really quickly) can make the car feel really quick while you can still be a bit lazy with the revs. Plus you keep the cc below 1500 so cheaper tax and if it gets signed off properly by an engineer for the insurance it may not make that much of a hike to a specialist like Adrian Flux or similar. And at the end of the day if its something you want to do then go for it, It would be quiet unusual:thumbup:

oldschool, your point is understood by me as very sensitive and aparently, you have had in the past turbo and non turbos, i have'nt but i can still understand your point of view very well,

since they are NA tuning, Turbo, and tweaks that benefit both i guess it all boils down to application, prince and use (or amount of use on a specific)

so i guess the best thing right no is to learn, what is the goal, and find the best corse of action to achive it...

factory fitment fuel injection is good thing.

i saw some carburated favorit and felicia 1.3 engines with turbocharging systems.

basicly a exhaust manifold for turbocharger, some piping job to a little intercooler than a fully closed tig-welded metal box for carburator..

boost is controled from westgate acutator.. also LPG mixer can be mounted just over the turbo intake housing and engine will able to run with lpg :eek: no EGT and AFR monitoring just for fun for some couple of kilometeres .

but on the other hand i beleive that ~ 150 - 160 hp is possible with this little 3 main beared crankshaft.

pistons and piston liners are cast iron and looks durable. don't know so much about rods and crankshaft. but it looks that capable of pushing out ~160 hp.

a good standalone ecu or smt6 like piggyback units for fueling. a egt probe and wideband lambda probe for inspecting runing conditions will need in my opinion.

thanks for all your help guys dont think il bother wid it probly blow it up lol. had loads of turbo cars just like the boots and dump valve lol. fitting it and that wouldnt be problem im a merchanic anyway lol just want to knwo wot your guys thort. do u know any were that does like a adapter for were the air box goes coz i want to fit a perfomance air filter and put a electri turbo on it insted use to have one on one of my old cars?

If you were fan-charging the engine, how many horsepower did the boost fan motor dissipate?

electric supercharger fan thingies should be put into the same group as an inflatable dart board or solar powered torch

The ones I've seen advertised (normally using heater fans) all are, but there's nothing wrong with the theory, as long as you can source and drive a several HP electric motor.

no an a car with a carb ken

iv got a proper eram one it puts a nuther 7 to 8 psi of pressure down the manfold u do feel the diffrents they are gd. i just need to know were i can get a adater for the top of the throtle body?

electric supercharger fan thingies should be put into the same group as an inflatable dart board or solar powered torch

a guy in america took an electric supercharger off a plane engine and powered it with some lith-ion batteries in his boot, that thing was savage.

only in America

iv got a proper eram one it puts a nuther 7 to 8 psi of pressure down the manfold u do feel the diffrents they are gd. i just need to know were i can get a adater for the top of the throtle body?

Yeah yeah yeah. The manifold pressure is irrelevant; what you need to make power is a high air mass flow rate.

If I use a sufficiently big motor and small venturi, I can get another several hundred PSI at the carb, but the engine will make no power because it will flow no air mass.

no an a car with a carb ken

Mibbae aye, mibbae nay. Unless it was really over-sized for the original application, like a Maestro 1.3 with a 2 inch SU, you might (probably will) need a bigger carb, and would certainly need to rejet for the higher airflow if you didn't, but engines have been built using carbs and forced induction (even including some with pressurised carburetors, although it's easier to compress fuel-air mix than seal a carb to deal with 8PSI relative presurisation).

All I'm saying is that it's technically possible, even though the commercially available systems are all snake oil.