Thankyou to Ender for showing me his ashtray-mounted one on Friday.

I've made up the panel to fit in the ashtray today, gauge should be arriving next week

Make me one aswell mate!

Yep apparently to do a BHP measurement you have to redline it in any gear, also the temptation to keep doing 0-60 runs will cane the fuel

Mmm, would have to find a private road as our national speed limit is 100kph.

Still want one. Must save...

Mmm, would have to find a private road as our national speed limit is 100kph.

Still want one. Must save...

Aaah the benefit of living near Millbrook

Ian

Thankyou to Ender for showing me his ashtray-mounted one on Friday.

I've made up the panel to fit in the ashtray today, gauge should be arriving next week

Hmmmmm, is there any chance of someone posting a picture?? Pretty please

Ender - I'll make you one up once mines all fitted and bring it to the next meet, I haven't cut the holes in the middle of the panel yet for the gauge screen and joystick but will get on with that once the gauge arrives

Update - gauge has arrived (thanks Awesome you guys are the bomb )

Have fitted it in the ashtray with the mounting plate I made for it but the hole I cut was a bit too big so it looks a bit messy at the moment but will try and make a better mounting plate on Sunday.

Found 1 fault code and cleared it (18010 - battery had recently been unplugged ) and reset the throttle body.

The boost gauge hit max at 11.3 psi which sounds a bit high :confused:

I managed to do one dyno run and got 185bhp and 231Nm torque, rolling road last Autumn was 188bhp and 244Nm so not too far off

Yes Lex I am well happy with it

sweet, they awesome eh..

Let me know about the panel!

Glad your happy mate cool bit of kit isn't it.

I have mine set to show boost as mbar and torque as ft lb as I kind of understand it better. What's 231Nm in ft lb anyone?

Dyno runs will show different results from one day to the next as atmospheric pressure and air temps all effect the result and you'll probably never get the same conditions twice.

Ian

231 newton meter = 170.376 pound foot

= very slow! = needs a remap.

231 newton meter = 170.376 pound foot

= very slow! = needs a remap.

:rofl:

Made a new panel yesterday which looks a bit tidier and fits the screen a bit better, I still need to smooth out the edges a bit though. Thinking I might paint the whole panel (plus screws) with black primer.

And just to confirm - it can be closed as well for stealth mode

Ender - I have got the dimensions and everything now so will make you up a panel before the end of the month.

Lex - it's a shame you can't set the units individually for each screen rather than just using metric or imperial! I would want the temps to be in celcius, the boost pressure to be in psi or bar and the torque to be in ft/Ib

I have torque in ft lb, temps in Celsius and boost in bar. Would prefer the boost in psi but that means temps in Fahrenheit.

Maybe a future software update will accommodate this.

Install looks good there mate, very nice. I would have used black screws though but as you say a coat of primer will sort that out.

So the bhp/ torque seems to be quite accurate on these gauges. Does anybody know how it calculates power and torque, I presume from the information from the sensors?

Vag-com also calculates power/ torque from these sensors but if that was accurate i would have 237Bhp from just a remap and exhaust . So what would make this gauge different?

As far as I know everything comes from the ECU so comes from the same sensors as VAG-COM uses, but as you say, VAG-COM has never given that accurate bhp figures. I think it must have an accelerometer built onto the circuit board as it is able to show G-Force, so possibly it uses the readings from the accelerometer to calculate the torque and power.

I think the member "FreeGeek" on here develops the software for them so might be able to explain a bit further?

BTW does anyone know what the difference between boost pressure and command pressure is? I assume one is actual and one requested?

Wow , yes that does look good

I also like how you have made it so the ashtry can close too

cracking job

Sarah

A differnt way of mounting a liquid gauge and thanks to jim for providing all the answers to my questions whilst i worked out if this was possible.

A differnt way of mounting a liquid gauge and thanks to jim for providing all the answers to my questions whilst i worked out if this was possible.

Any chance of you doing a bit of a write-up/guide? I think this is a brilliant way of doing it

Btw -here did you mount the joystick? Did you have to shift any OEM warning lights?

Suddenly feel good that my car came without maxidot.....

Thanks

Bas

I received this picture from a forum member, but am not sure of his forum name. Anyway he has done an amazing job to achieve this. Would be nice to see a "how to".

Why not post this in the ongoing liquid guage post below??

Also it must be true,about it using lots of power,its used up all the guys petrol.

Is it me, or is that gauge actually just a sticker?

I think it's 'kynastonp' car.

Yeah that's blatantly just a sticker. You can see the crease!

I wouldn't of thought that it was possible anyway, unless you did some serious work on the cluster.

What would you do with the lights that are normally there? And where is the joystick?

Nice idea though....

Handy place to put it. A similar idea would be to get one of the circular LGs for the Audi TT and install it in a NewSouth columnpod on the top of the steering column. You could mount the joystick in the door card just in front of the lock & window controls but would require a bit of dismantling and re-soldering the circuit board!

FreeGeek - is it true there is a hidden pac-man game? How do I bring it up?

Yeah that's blatantly just a sticker. You can see the crease!

I wouldn't of thought that it was possible anyway, unless you did some serious work on the cluster.

What would you do with the lights that are normally there? And where is the joystick?

Nice idea though....

that aint no sticker!

and if someone can host a movie file i can prove it

yes you do some work on the cluster

there are no lights there on a vrs the lights (8) are above

joystick is by the headlamp adjuster

Edited 21 March, 200917 yr by kynastonp