i went to pic up a friend from school and take her to her home, on the way back i felt something weird

my car feels fine (totally) but a white smoke came out while i accelerated for a short burst, the white smoke stopped.

came home check the motor, mayo unde the cap, removed the valve cover, more mayo :S

now i check the valve clearances (the engine still hot) and it gave me 0.33mm exhaust 0.30mm intake, and im 100% sure i set them to 0.20mm all arround stone cold.

one of the buy guys here, mind posting an explanation please ?

so anyways, mayo means, changing the head gasket seal, and machine level the head gasket itself, i'll take the oportunity to clean the valves, and fit new valve seals and valve guides and anything that has to be services while i'm at it...

shucks, what the hell happened ? :confused:

Not necessarily

My Favorit left a small amount of Mayo under the cap.

My Felicia and my cuz's Fabia also have but only on short journeys.

I'm assuming if the HG goes the engine won't start? My 1.6 didn't start.

As said doesn't automatically mean your head gasket has gone.

Check for other signs like dissapearing coolant or oil in the coolant.

Mine sometime chucks a bit of white smoke from cold but only occasionally and when used on short journeys.

They're quite prone to a bit of moisture in the engine are these which usually presents itself as mayo or a bit of smoke.

If it was smoking all the time then I would worry!

Phil

As said doesn't automatically mean your head gasket has gone.

Check for other signs like dissapearing coolant or oil in the coolant.

Mine sometime chucks a bit of white smoke from cold but only occasionally and when used on short journeys.

They're quite prone to a bit of moisture in the engine are these which usually presents itself as mayo or a bit of smoke.

If it was smoking all the time then I would worry!

Phil

my coolant disapeard two days ago, it was a while that i din't check it, i just though that the cap which lost the rubber ring let the steam go out, so i refilled it and recheck every morning before i whent out, first morning went down to just a little bellow top level mark, second morning, no change (that was today)

no oil in the coolant, and i checked the dip stick, and no mayo there but there is a huge ammount of mayo in the valve cover and smuthered arround the valves. i'll take a pic

A small drop in coolant after topping up a system maybe expected, because there may have been an airlock in the system.

If you only do short journeys then the mayo may build up.

is that amount (in the picture) ok, i mean, i do do short jorneys, but to this day (i've had the car for a year now) this is the first time that i''ve seen any mayo, and considering the climate (arround 80°) is not like you have a lot of time to build up condesation in a engine

also, can anyone please tell me why my Valve Clearances grew from 0.20mm(cold) to almost 0.33mm(hot @ 75°) ?

best bet in my opinion is do an oil change and use plenty of engine flush to clean it out thouroughly, top up the coolant and take it on a good run. when you get back have a look and if it seems ok keep checking on it over some time

best bet in my opinion is do an oil change and use plenty of engine flush to clean it out thouroughly, top up the coolant and take it on a good run. when you get back have a look and if it seems ok keep checking on it over some time

Thanks for your sudjestion;

i actualy put a pint of light machine oil (something like DW-40, but not) after i reched the valve clearance after cold (they went back to 0.20mm) and let idle for 30 min while i had the oil cap off

seems to have cleared up the mayo problem... for now

and the disapering coolant.. i will be monitoring close... real close

Looks like the water and oil jackets are mixing at the headgasket to me, i cant think of anything else that could cause that amount of mayo in the head. Other than really short journeys, or being run for short periods of time.

My omega has hardly been run for 7 months and the filler neck has accumalated a fair amount of gunk over that period of time.

Looks like the water and oil jackets are mixing at the headgasket to me, i cant think of anything else that could cause that amount of mayo in the head. Other than really short journeys, or being run for short periods of time.

My omega has hardly been run for 7 months and the filler neck has accumalated a fair amount of gunk over that period of time.

actually, 80 percent of my trips are 8 km or less, i rarely do a trip over 15 km on a day, but i use it all the time and as i've stated before i live in 80° weather (caribbean) so i realy dont see the moisture coming from no whexept the coolant... and as i've stated before, i now have the car for 1 year and this is the first time i've seen mayo on the cap

to me is eyther of two things, head gasket seal, or cylinder wall crack (god please let it not be the last one) it could also be a fluke, the car has never over heated and i don't thrash it, so there is no real reason for the Headgasket or the seal to break, and the engine was taken apart before i bought it (so to gaskets in 6 to 8 years is unheard of to me on a easy driven car)

i still dont understand why the valve clearance where bigger when the engine was hot... maybe there is something there

Edited 7 March, 200917 yr by Cepheuz

i like to point out one more thing, i get water from the exahust pipe, its something that has always happen to me, the way i tune the engine is slighty different from stock and all my cars after i tune them get water out of the exhaust on cold start and then a little mist or dropplets after short runs

i've actualy got the nack on doing it on any carb engine jijiji

anyways, maybe is not the head gasket, but the oil piston ring that need to be replace, i doesnt sound far fetch to me, since the car was runing lean and cold in the past

While doing the servicing last month, I noticed my coolant tank to be filled just under the MIN marking, and was pretty sure of it being filled to the MAX marking!!!

After checking the coolant circuit, I was losing drops by the temp sensor on my rad. Took a spanner, and gave it a good twist.

Till then, no more coolant losing...

Check your circuit, just in case of...

that looks quite bad in the pic, you need quite a lot of pressure to get mayo up on the rocker cover, what do the spark plugs look like?? if one is a lot cleaner than the rest i'd suggest you've blown a liner, if not then head gasket time

that looks quite bad in the pic, you need quite a lot of pressure to get mayo up on the rocker cover, what do the spark plugs look like?? if one is a lot cleaner than the rest i'd suggest you've blown a liner, if not then head gasket time

i check the spark plugs # 2 is darker and all are tanned (healthy) i check my spark plugs on every gas fill, that way i can monitor the engine's health and there is not significant changes

While doing the servicing last month, I noticed my coolant tank to be filled just under the MIN marking, and was pretty sure of it being filled to the MAX marking!!!

After checking the coolant circuit, I was losing drops by the temp sensor on my rad. Took a spanner, and gave it a good twist.

Till then, no more coolant losing...

Check your circuit, just in case of...

I had the same problem 1 month ago, tighten all the circuit junctions and the leak stopped for a while, however now the coolant leaks without knowing where, also it is getting a green color (from blue) and oily texture. Ahh it is quite flamable too.

I had the same problem 1 month ago, tighten all the circuit junctions and the leak stopped for a while, however now the coolant leaks without knowing where, also it is getting a green color (from blue) and oily texture. Ahh it is quite flamable too.

coolant that is flamable ???? ****es!!!

Thanks for your sudjestion;

i actualy put a pint of light machine oil (something like DW-40, but not) after i reched the valve clearance after cold (they went back to 0.20mm) and let idle for 30 min while i had the oil cap off

seems to have cleared up the mayo problem... for now

and the disapering coolant.. i will be monitoring close... real close

metal expands and shinks in hot/cold.

i work in steel fabrications and if i was to cut a large sheet of metal with the oxy acetylene burner, no matter how thick (up to a certain extent), it twists and bends like nobodys business. same sort of thing when the engine gets hot and cold (without the bending and twisting lol)

metal expands and shinks in hot/cold.

i work in steel fabrications and if i was to cut a large sheet of metal with the oxy acetylene burner, no matter how thick (up to a certain extent), it twists and bends like nobodys business. same sort of thing when the engine gets hot and cold (without the bending and twisting lol)

but i though that the valve clearance are suppose to go down from 0.20mm cold, to 0.10mm hot, since metal expands when hot (pushrods get longer) not the other way arround

yeah i thought so too.. but i guess its got something to do with the hot/cold metal business

Hey Ceph,

your post is prophetic!

I went to check the engine this morning and i opened the oil cap on top of the engine and guess what, it was full of slimy mayo.ouch!I called the mechanic who luckily lives nearby and came for a fast check. After 30 mins of idling and accelerating the conclusion was that the coolant was mixing with the engine oil, eventhough the engine oil was crystal clear since it was changed 1000km ago. So he thinks that the exhaust flange had been burned and requires more checking. Back to the store tomorrow.

ps. i hadnt notished it before but vapor was coming out of the exhaust. Use a cloth near the exhuast to check if moisture is coming out.

Hey Ceph,

your post is prophetic!

I went to check the engine this morning and i opened the oil cap on top of the engine and guess what, it was full of slimy mayo.ouch!I called the mechanic who luckily lives nearby and came for a fast check. After 30 mins of idling and accelerating the conclusion was that the coolant was mixing with the engine oil, eventhough the engine oil was crystal clear since it was changed 1000km ago. So he thinks that the exhaust flange had been burned and requires more checking. Back to the store tomorrow.

ps. i hadnt notished it before but vapor was coming out of the exhaust. Use a cloth near the exhuast to check if moisture is coming out.

moisture comes out of most cars exhausts, when i start my peugot, or omega theres water drips out, same with the misses rover its just condensation that clears up when the engines hot

moisture comes out of most cars exhausts, when i start my peugot, or omega theres water drips out, same with the misses rover its just condensation that clears up when the engines hot

yeah, you kinda forget where i live, here only in the moring realy early (6am) cars do that, for some of you guy's that might be normal since you live in colder climates, so the hot and very moist air coming out of an exhaust meets the cold slightly less saturated air from the atmosphere and condensation forms, it normal...

here in the dominican republic with a temperature of 80° is not something you see every day, but i can make my cars do it by leaning the mix a bit and retarding the timing a bit (by a degree or two) that makes the combustion of the gasoline almost a sure thing...

remember that the by product of a correctly tune car is water and carbon oxide, badly tune vehicles produce NOx and C0² so doing it for me is just a matter of cooling the exhaust (someone told me that you can test the combustion of a car by touching the exhaust, too hot is to advance timing and improper fuel burn, guess i believed him cus you can keep your hand on my tail pipe all the time you want)

I may be barking up the wrong tree as I've yet to take the top of one of these engines but...

I used to run several old Austin 1100s (same as an old mini engine) and even in cold temperatures rarely had mayo like that without some fault. If this was one of them I'd have said that maybe one of the cylinder head bolts that also anchor the rocker shaft had broken allowing the head to open up from the block at that point enough to put coolant in the oil but also allowing the rocker gear to twist over as the engine warmed. This could cause the valve clearance to open rather than close.

Like I say, I've not even had the rocker cover off one of these yet but if there is any similarity it may be worth trying all the bolts that pass through the rocker assembly to see if any are loose or broken.

I think you can pressure test the cooling system to see if it is leaking into the engine's cylinders or oil ways. I think you get mayo up the top as that's where you'll get most condensation, the rocker cover is usually cooler than the internals and is the highest point.

I may be barking up the wrong tree as I've yet to take the top of one of these engines but...

I used to run several old Austin 1100s (same as an old mini engine) and even in cold temperatures rarely had mayo like that without some fault. If this was one of them I'd have said that maybe one of the cylinder head bolts that also anchor the rocker shaft had broken allowing the head to open up from the block at that point enough to put coolant in the oil but also allowing the rocker gear to twist over as the engine warmed. This could cause the valve clearance to open rather than close.

Like I say, I've not even had the rocker cover off one of these yet but if there is any similarity it may be worth trying all the bolts that pass through the rocker assembly to see if any are loose or broken.

I think you can pressure test the cooling system to see if it is leaking into the engine's cylinders or oil ways. I think you get mayo up the top as that's where you'll get most condensation, the rocker cover is usually cooler than the internals and is the highest point.

thank you for that post,

you are the only one that has adress the increace in valve clearance, i though that valve clearance would be less with heat and that an increase in valve clearance when hot should be something that is tied to the mayo problem.

thus, i did not check the volts that hold the gasket in place, and sound to me like there is a posibility there, and if what you say is true futher warping will ocur in the future making the sign more obvios,

i will go ahead as a safety precasion an get a torque rech and test the threads (by applying the torque they should have) and i'll presure test the cylinders and the cooling system , i think 10 ps would be enough so i think i can manage (more than 15 i dont think i can)

one little note, the increase was in all the valves, if there is one bolt loose should the valve closest be afected and the ones farther not ??? i dont remember quite well but i think all of them gave me 0.33mm (when cold 0.20mm all around)