Has anyone got a photo or drawing that shows the gearbox filler/level bung, were to top it up.thanks.

LINKY

Thanks thought it was the items in your pics, but heard of people undoing bolt or plugs only to find it was to do with holding the syncro's for the gears.

You need to undo one of them to drain the box out (its in the thread).

You need to undo one of them to drain the box out (its in the thread).

I took one out when i did mine but no more oil came out :confused:

It should do..lol

I took one out when i did mine but no more oil came out :confused:

I only got a few drips myself. I took out the one Lummox pointed out in my pics.

At least I know all the oil was out of the box though.

Ian

Any tips as to what gear oil to use and how much you'll need?

VAG stuff is probably the best to be honest.

Ian

Any tips as to what gear oil to use and how much you'll need?

have a look at this link, Car Gearbox Oils

you can change the car model to find your car

it says you need 80w for your golf (octy needs 75/90w)but you can upgrade to 75/90w if you like,if its 75/90 you need you can get it from most motorcar stores its about 6 pounds per liter,i bought some for my lupo last week:D

Edited 12 March, 200917 yr by HaRRyBoNgO(uK)

That 75/90 is a myth. There was some indication that was the grade, but the actual oil doesn't specify such a grade. In comparison, 75/90 slops around in a bottle like warm runny honey, the correct VAG oil is like water, or very thin oil.

If you use 75/90 you'll be going significantly thicker and increasing drag. The only thing I use other than the G50/52 specified is thin high spec Redline racing oil which has a similar viscosity but may be of a better grade. To be frank, it's hard to get good data on the vag oil but I can tell you after many many changes on many boxes that it's THIN and clear, as in clear! I have used every grade of gear oil going over the years and am very familiar with what diff/gearbox traditional oils feel like. This feels like an ATF, minus the red colour. ATF has been popular in modern years in manual boxes to reduce drag, improve shift speed and syncro operation.

Greg.

have a look at this link, Car Gearbox Oils

you can change the car model to find your car

it says you need 80w for your golf (octy needs 75/90w)but you can upgrade to 75/90w if you like,if its 75/90 you need you can get it from most motorcar stores its about 6 pounds per liter,i bought some for my lupo last week:D

So both Haynes and Opie oils are wrong then?.......

That 75/90 is a myth. There was some indication that was the grade, but the actual oil doesn't specify such a grade. In comparison, 75/90 slops around in a bottle like warm runny honey, the correct VAG oil is like water, or very thin oil.

If you use 75/90 you'll be going significantly thicker and increasing drag. The only thing I use other than the G50/52 specified is thin high spec Redline racing oil which has a similar viscosity but may be of a better grade. To be frank, it's hard to get good data on the vag oil but I can tell you after many many changes on many boxes that it's THIN and clear, as in clear! I have used every grade of gear oil going over the years and am very familiar with what diff/gearbox traditional oils feel like. This feels like an ATF, minus the red colour. ATF has been popular in modern years in manual boxes to reduce drag, improve shift speed and syncro operation.

Greg.

Spot on.

After a few issues with the gearchange on Wiebos vRS I drained and refilled the box with the correct VAG oil and it now changes sweetly.

Spot on.

After a few issues with the gearchange on Wiebos vRS I drained and refilled the box with the correct VAG oil and it now changes sweetly.

What were the "issues" out of interest? Mines no better with 75/90 but no worse (still a bit notchy), Should i drain and use vag oil?

Couldn't drop down into first sometimes when rolling up to a stop and second was notchy.

Felt like the syncos dragging to me which happens when the oil is too thick and doesnt get inbetween them.

It's like this. You get a spec sheet and it says water and honey are the same viscosity. So you open a bottle of water and pour it through a viscosity cup. It's gone. You open some honey, pour it in the viscosity cup and 30 seconds later it's still there....

So you use a new set of bottles. And again. And again. Now you have nothing against the spec sheet, but it's clear from simple observation that honey does not equal the viscosity of water.

Thankfully I have done the tests and found out the correct information re the box viscosity and am happy using VAG fluid or lightweight fancy fluid. Those that use 75/90 can argue the spec sheet/if it works, so far I haven't found a reason to put what I know to be a considrably more viscous fluid in the box.

I have often gone thinner than specified, but only when upgrading the quality of the fluid at the same time, eg some of the Redline racing stuff and only when the clearances are sufficiently tight. My old van engine will only run quietly on fairly thick oil for instance, it's in mint condition with 50k and fsh, but it's a pushrod motor designed in the 70's and made by people who went on strike all day, to the pub all night and threw a few pistons in on friday before finshing at 12. It's not great on build tolerances.

Luckily, vw boxes are ;-)

Greg.

So both Haynes and Opie oils are wrong then?.......

A lot of very confusing info. I found Opie pils very helpful. They recommended Fuchs' Titan Sintofluid SAE 75W fully synthetic. I run a Fabia 1.4tdi as a driving school car which gets a fair amont of punishment. So far it's been bomb proof over 100k. Happy motoring!!!

top tip !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Check the filler bung is loose BEFORE draining out the oil, Mine was a barsteward to get out, took the mechanic about 15 mins to get it out & the old oil was already out, I did joke about turning the car upside down to fill it up