Ca any one give me the valve clearance values when fully hot (90°)

since the car's valve clearance are changing i think the best way is to measure them on hot and on cold see if they're within range

i kow the cold values are 0.20mm and 0.25mm for alloy so all i need is the hot values.

i would realy apreciate someone with experience, or a certified mechanic answering to be sure of this values

also a little explanation on the change in values (the valve clearance should increase due to the block being aluminium or should the value decrease due to the push rod expansion)

i just want to figure out this dilema since my valve have sounded more after hot then settle down

Skoda recomend that the clearances are set cold, and ive not seen any hot settings, I dont think you will gain anything by checking them hot, apart from burned fingers. Skoda will have had blokes in white coats checking the expansion rates for the pushrods and will have no doubt tried several different metals to get rods that expand at a simmilar rate to the rest of the engine. You will get a slightly louder noise from the valvetrain when hot, due to the oil being thinner and less able to supress the noise

:iagree: dont bother doing it with the engine hot, you are wasting your time

1rst of all, i don't know what you guys are thinking,

now again, i will try to make myself clear;

as far as i know, valve clearance are suposed to decrease in push rod design, in my they're are expanding meaning larger gap.

now i don't know if this is normal or not, if it is, the all's good, if not i have a symptom that could explain the mayo and the low F.E. and loss of power after warm

that's why i asked not only for the information, but the reason for this to happen. I'm not setting valve clearance hot im checking them to make sure they're rate of expansion or contraction is correct and withing range.

now if i need to give justification as to why this is important, i dont want to loose a HG and my F.E. went down from 38 to 33 and now is 28KM/g

Edited 13 March, 200917 yr by Cepheuz

I know that valve clearence in hot status is supposed to be the double than in cold status

(0.4 in 0.5 ex)

I know that valve clearence in hot status is supposed to be the double than in cold status

(0.4 in 0.5 ex)

are you sure of this? you said that you had a mate who had a lot of skodas,(the one that sudjested the valve clearance values to you) could you do me a favor and double check with him please, tha way he cant tell you the reason of this.

i only ask because i've been doing a lot of reading on this subject and ohc valve clearance do not change all that much because as the valve expands it contracts into the cylinder (due to the head expanding) but with push rod engines the push rod expand more than the valve recessecion amount hence the clearance is less when hot, this is common on al push rod engine design (as far as i've read)

by the way thanks for the friendly reply mate, and how is the car after setting the valve to 0.25mm in, did F.E. go up more or did it normalized ?

Have you thought about contacting Skoda, and telling them your problems? It is possible that they might have a technical department, that can give you some advice.

My advice is find someone with a tig welder, and weld the rocker cover to the head to stop you taking it off after every trip and stop worrying about a bit of rattle, they all do it!!!, Or trade it in for that Fabia youve talked about, lol

My advice is find someone with a tig welder, and weld the rocker cover to the head to stop you taking it off after every trip and stop worrying about a bit of rattle

:rofl: haha, i wish i'd thought of that

Have you thought about contacting Skoda, and telling them your problems? It is possible that they might have a technical department, that can give you some advice.

My advice is find someone with a tig welder, and weld the rocker cover to the head to stop you taking it off after every trip and stop worrying about a bit of rattle, they all do it!!!, Or trade it in for that Fabia youve talked about, lol

what a comediant... sounded more like a smart ***, but that a type of comediant too:cool:

yeah, in Dominican Republic where i live there is no skoda, and i bet it would take me an hour of long distance rate to get to talk to someone, let alone explain the problem, wich might not be a problem in the first place

so no, i dont think your idea is helpfull or smart (considering where i live and the fact that the dealers dont have a clue of the tech stuff)

and to make it perfectly clear, its not about the rattle (and hum) its about not loosing a HG just because i didnt check...

and stop being so anal about my rocket cover, is my car and i do whatever i want to it as much as i wan to it (jajajaja, sorry, spoil brat humor{ i never said i was a good comediant} it just had to go here)...

any way, joking aside, i'm just concerned after the mayo stuff, first time it has ever happen to me ( on a caribbean climate it rarely does happen)

and the F.E. going down again after doing a ****load of stuff (never did get it to go above 38km/g, now is back to 13 L/100km)

enjoy your week end all of you guys

tonny, i've just had a wild thought regarding FE, are you sure your carb is jetted correctly for a caribbean climate, obviously cars of european origin will be jetted to run in a colder less humid environment.. it might be worth visiting a carb specialist

tonny, i've just had a wild thought regarding FE, are you sure your carb is jetted correctly for a caribbean climate, obviously cars of european origin will be jetted to run in a colder less humid environment.. it might be worth visiting a carb specialist

thanks for the post tom,

to respond to that, the cars are bought by the dealer and sold here with specs, it should give me 9L/100km on city driving and from past experience this is only half true, it can give more... the most i got from it was 38 km/g (4 km shy of the stock value) that's when i found out the problem with the gasoine in the DR. one is 89, the other is 95, so i mixed 1:1 and thats how i got the 38km/g

i haven't change that, i'm still putting in 1:1 89ron:95ron but the F.E. is going down

i cleaned the carburator changed the plugs and filters and everything and still bad F.E.

the carb is stock in all sence of the word took it to have it checked out and all is fine

valve clearance, timing etc. you name it is stock

add that to the mayo that is so rare in the DR and you kinda get the picture i got (that something is wrong and if i neglet it, it will be hell to pay)

sorry to make it short, yes carb jetting is checked and its stock new the car gives 50km/g in this climate with premium fuel (all i got with premium was 30km/g) i did a partial disasembly to check the seal float and all is good

id get me a new car.

still though, you worry too much

id get me a new car.

still though, you worry too much

i guess you missed the part where i said i'm still paying installments on this one and the felicia is the cheapest car sold here, (and supposed to be a economical car) that's why i bough it

seriously, think about it, i bough the car cus is supposed to give me 32mpg (imp), if its 31, 30, 29, i would not coplain, but is 20mpg (imp)

that's not worrying to much, that is having a real problem and adressing it

seriously guy, do i need defend myself so much?

getting a new car is out of the question, simply don't have the means for it

fueling at this rate is troublesome have to cut corners too much

you guys would not buy a camry without the power and confort, or a suv that you cant take off road, and thats what i got in this car

so i just trying to fix it to get a skoda felicia that acts as a skoda felicia

Edited 14 March, 200917 yr by Cepheuz

He said: "wenn du es mal warm einstellen musst, dann nimm den doppelten wert"

(if you will set it warm, take the double value"

He said: "wenn du es mal warm einstellen musst, dann nimm den doppelten wert"

(if you will set it warm, take the double value"

ok, so valve are ok, timing is ok, jetting is ok, full service done and i'm baffeld

Tonny, the reason they specify valve clearance for cold only is that you can only set them once! So _either_ hot _or_ cold will get them set for you (in any car) and either way you'll just have to leave them where they are.

I can't think why incorrectly set valves could cause mayo. They could cause loss of power, getting rapidly worse as the valve seats burn away, but mayo is usually a symptom of head gasket failure unless it's just due to the car driving mostly short distances in a cold climate (so not in your case then!) or possibly a failed core plug

Edited 14 March, 200917 yr by Richard Black

surely it would be boiling over if a core plug was broken due to the coolant circuit being de-pressurized?

surely it would be boiling over if a core plug was broken due to the coolant circuit being de-pressurized?

Depends how bad the leak is. I've known core plugs rust through but there's so much clag behind them (more rust! - from the rest of the engine) that very little water actually leaks out. Don't forget that an engine like the Skoda won't boil just because there's no pressure - you have to lose a lot of water before it boils. Trust me, I've driven enough Skodas with a non-functioning 'pressure' cap.

the other thing to check is the the exhaust system isn't all clogged up with carbon deposits, likewise a good decoke of the exhuast manifold and cylinder head can liven it up too, a lot of people underestimate how much efficiency can be lost due to these factors

Tonny, the reason they specify valve clearance for cold only is that you can only set them once! So _either_ hot _or_ cold will get them set for you (in any car) and either way you'll just have to leave them where they are.

I can't think why incorrectly set valves could cause mayo. They could cause loss of power, getting rapidly worse as the valve seats burn away, but mayo is usually a symptom of head gasket failure unless it's just due to the car driving mostly short distances in a cold climate (so not in your case then!) or possibly a failed core plug

thanks for the post,

incorrect valve clearance is not the cause of the mayo, i was just incredibly odd for me on a push rod engine that the clearance was wider hot than cold, is usualy the other way arround.

the reason i was asking was not to try to set them hot, the reason why i asked was cus i though that if valve clearance where supposed to be less hot, and they where more hot, meant that i had a serious problem. Now again, my believe is that all push rod engine's valve clearance is less hot than cold, si i asked so not to go in a narrow minded boxed idealizim.

i though that the expanding clearance ment a HG problem, witch in turn was causing the mayo, the mayo disapeard, has not returned but i just wanted to be causios and not dismiss things so easy

it is still strange to me that valve clearance is wider when hot... very weird, but if thats the way it is, thats the way it will be.

as an update, the car gave me hesitation and stalling today for the second time (first time was after i discoverd the mayo) and this is not a normal thing (noer shoud it)

the other thing to check is the the exhaust system isn't all clogged up with carbon deposits, likewise a good decoke of the exhuast manifold and cylinder head can liven it up too, a lot of people underestimate how much efficiency can be lost due to these factors

thanks for the post tom;

the exhaust is not clogged, it would be very easy for me to tell right away even if its a small clog since i have a vacuum gauge permanently installed and right ow the exhaust has an escape and is louder, and there is definetly no clog. (the car has not cat by the way)

just wanted to update to keep record;

On push rod engine desing valve clearance increases as the block warms up and expands, afterward the valve clearance will stat going down as push rods warm up and expand. push rod will also cool downd faster than the block and the valve clearance will increase again until block cools down

this is one reason why inproper valve timing or clearance will cause hesitation re- starting after engine initial warm up.

my loud valves, (wide valve clearance) increased fuel consumption and mayo happen for the same reason improper heat propagation and over cooling

case close, happy i'm not going to loose a HG

how this happen is another question...

Cepheuz i'm looking your messages and trying to figure out whats going on actually with your engine

in my opinion you need an engine overhaul at least a head rebuild.. believe me.

Cepheuz i'm looking your messages and trying to figure out whats going on actually with your engine

in my opinion you need an engine overhaul at least a head rebuild.. believe me.

thanks for the friendly post;

yeah i kinda though that too. but after i cleared out the oil with a decent flush, (and de debry from the filter came out) put in mobil1 15W40 flush the coolant and put in new coolant and ofcourse, fixed the thermostat (wich was not working thank you) engine warms up right away and after 15min valve are no longer noisy (of course audible) ad havnet seen mayo or hasitations. so i think i dont have to take off the HG, but i will be spending time on the valve chain, is alredy the noisiest part of the engine