I've got the dreaded creaks when going over speed bumps etc. By the look of the other posts, I need to strip off the old bushes and clips, remove the plastic sleave, grease liberally and then fit the new bushes.

However, opinion seems to be divided on whether the new bushes need to have a narower gauge bore in order to fit on the arb once the plastic sleave has been replaced. These ones are available from a decent online retailer and are described as the 'new' type (18mm bore):

www.vwspares.co.uk

Anyone know if they are the right part number?

Cheers,

iep

Yes, I did exactly that, and it works fine - transformed the front end.

The bar will be rusty underneath the plastic sleeve - polish it off with emery.

One thing to check, is the mounting clamps - the "new style" bushes have a raised ridge in the centre, the older models didn't, and if so you will have to replace the clamps as well - for the price it's probably worth buying them anyway if you don't want to crawl underneath and check first.

Part number for the new style clamps is 1J0411336D, £5 each

Make sure you lube them with plenty of copper grease

Here's a good guide with photos:

VWvortex Forums: DIY - Replacing and/or lubricating the front sway bar bushings on a MKIV Jetta/G

I need to replace my ARB bushes too. Can anyone confirm the diameter of the standard ARB as fitted to the 53 plate vRS. I am assuming from the posts above that I have a 21mm ARB and require :-

2 x 21mm Bar (0AL) (new type) Febi 22804 @ £1.85 each

Replaces OE Ref:

1J0411314R

1J0411314AC

Hole: 18mm

2 x Clip, for use with new type mounts Febi 23366 @ £2.50 each (NB not £5.00 each as quoted above)

Replaces OE Ref:

1J0411336D

Many thanks

VRS uses a 19mm bar mate

Yeah, this has confused me. vRS uses 19mm bar but I can't find a bush that includes a 19mm hole.

Lot's of chat about after market bushes but haven't been able to find the part number for an OE replacement.

Also, if you remove the plastic cover (as people seem to recommend) wouldn't you then want to use a bush with a 18mm hole in order to ensure it is a good fit?

iep

I actually believe the standard bush has a 17mm hole to grip the bar tightly. Part number is 1J0 411 314 S.

I used the superpro 19mm bushes personally and actually have 2 of the above part number sitting around somewhere.

Really useful info. Cheers Lex. So this would be the part we need:

www.vwspares.co.uk

iep

Really useful info. Cheers Lex. So this would be the part we need:

www.vwspares.co.uk

iep

Thats the one

A very big thankyou...you just saved me from ordering the wrong ones.

So there's no point in buying any kind of "uprated" parts if you're running the standard ARB(s)?

I'm considering a Whiteline rear at some stage but not right now.

My car feels a little sloppy over bumps etc. and I'm wondering if replacing these might help....

I have finally got round to ordering the correct new style clamps and bushes from AVS (VW Parts - Audi Parts) for a measley £16.73 including the VAT and Delivery. I guess I'd better clear the garage up this weekend in order to car in next weekend:thumbup:

Thanks again guys for all the info.

In answer to okenobi's question, I'd stick with original parts. When I replaced most of the suspension on my Golf VR6 I was advised by VR6 forum members to try out all manner of bush upgrades as they had felt they'd made a huge difference on their cars (much sharper handling, braking etc).

To keep costs down though I stuck with a standard parts throughout. After replacing the worn (but not worn out) components I had on my car it too was transformed into a MUCH sharper drive. So, I think a lot of the reported difference is that new parts (upgraded or standard) will always make the car feel better than it did. There were also many reported cases, on the VR6 forum at least, of the upgraded bushes etc having a shorter lifespan.

As a caveat, if you are running a stiffened arb then harder bushes might be a good idea (as they'll see more load). However, if you are running stock arbs, stick with stock bushes is my opinion.

iep

I've got the dreaded creaks when going over speed bumps etc. By the look of the other posts, I need to strip off the old bushes and clips, remove the plastic sleave, grease liberally and then fit the new bushes.

Hey guys -

Some interesting info here. I have just started getting the dreaded creeks on my 03 1.2 Fabia. I am a complete novice when it comes to these matters, but I've learned a bit about "bushes" in recent times.

My question is: What is the best type of grease for lubricating bushes? Copper grease? Lithium grease? silicone spray? PTFE spray? Penetrant spray? I'm going to have a go at lubeing the ARB bushes (at least the ones that are easily accessible) before I start throwing money at this little annoyance!

Any advice would be mega-appreciated

Cheers,

Guy

I emailed the manufacturers of Super Pro bushes in Australia and they recommended copper grease.

I emailed the manufacturers of Super Pro bushes in Australia and they recommended copper grease.

And yet they supply a cheap white grease with their bushes that works for about a week and then dries up :confused:

Powerflex supply copper slip, seems to work well.

I do use molybdenum sometimes, depends how the mood takes me.

Hi,

I recently changed the ARB bushes on my '04 vRS Octavia.

However, I decided to remove the plastic ring on the bar, due to a crack on one side and rust. I know some of you recommend to replace the bar due to rust, but I didn't think it looked so bad.

However, since I put new 19mm bushes on, they are too loose for the bar w/o the plastic ring. Does anyone know the part number for VAG original bush that would be 17mm? Or is the only option to go with Polyurethane 17mm bush?

There ya go Kirk:

www.vwspares.co.uk

BTW, replaced mine with these on Saturday (after having removed the plastic sleeves). MUCH, better, really quiet now. As it shoudl be.

Job was a piece of **** to do. Took a couple of hours but most of that was setting up and cleaning up after (plus lots of tea drinking and chat with my dad).

Only tip is to get yourself a 40mm and 30mm M8 bolt (maybe 35mm) before you start. When you go to put the reatiner clip back in place over the new bush it is very difficult to get compress the bush enough to get the threads on the bolt to engage. I initially used the slightly longer bolt to crush everything into place then after I removed it, the real bolt went in perfectly.

iep

There ya go Kirk:

.....Only tip is to get yourself a 40mm and 30mm M8 bolt (maybe 35mm) before you start. When you go to put the reatiner clip back in place over the new bush it is very difficult to get compress the bush enough to get the threads on the bolt to engage. I initially used the slightly longer bolt to crush everything into place then after I removed it, the real bolt went in perfectly.

iep

I did mine the other week and notice a few post on here that were saying it would be easier if the bolt was longer. I had a similar experience but thought there must be a way of doing it without all the cursing and swearing. This is how I managed the job without too much swearing, no damaged knuckles and the use of original bolts.

Jack the car up and place on axel stands. With the road wheel removed place a trolley jack under the front suspension and jack up the suspension to allow better access to the retaining bolt. Jacking the suspension up or down allows you to remove the clamp and old bush more easily. The old plastic sleeve thing can then be removed and the rusty arb can be cleaned up.

Before fitting the new bush, I cleaned ap the threads on the bolt and with a little copper slip or grease screwed the bolt in and out until I was able to do it easily with my thumb and fore finger.

Then, with a bit of judicious raising or lowering of the front suspension by means of the trolley jack, I was able to get the optimum position for everything to go back thogether. With the bush and clamp in place, I used a pair of long nosed pliers to squeeze the clamp up tight while screwing the bolt in with my fingers. Once I was sure that the bolt had started, I used a 3/8" drive socket and ratchet handle to tighten it up. Job done!

The key to all this is the position of the suspension and drive shaft to the ARB by jacking up and lowering the suspension and the use of long nose pliers to squeeze the clamp up.

I hope this helps someone.

I did mine the other week and notice a few post on here that were saying it would be easier if the bolt was longer. I had a similar experience but thought there must be a way of doing it without all the cursing and swearing. This is how I managed the job without too much swearing, no damaged knuckles and the use of original bolts.

Jack the car up and place on axel stands. With the road wheel removed place a trolley jack under the front suspension and jack up the suspension to allow better access to the retaining bolt. Jacking the suspension up or down allows you to remove the clamp and old bush more easily. The old plastic sleeve thing can then be removed and the rusty arb can be cleaned up.

Before fitting the new bush, I cleaned ap the threads on the bolt and with a little copper slip or grease screwed the bolt in and out until I was able to do it easily with my thumb and fore finger.

Then, with a bit of judicious raising or lowering of the front suspension by means of the trolley jack, I was able to get the optimum position for everything to go back thogether. With the bush and clamp in place, I used a pair of long nosed pliers to squeeze the clamp up tight while screwing the bolt in with my fingers. Once I was sure that the bolt had started, I used a 3/8" drive socket and ratchet handle to tighten it up. Job done!

The key to all this is the position of the suspension and drive shaft to the ARB by jacking up and lowering the suspension and the use of long nose pliers to squeeze the clamp up.

I hope this helps someone.

Thanks for the help.

As I said, I already did this job, but since I didn't have any 17mm bushes available, I put new 19mm bushes there. I'll have to redo it once I get my hands on some 17mm ones. Hopefully it will go quicker this time

When I removed my bushes for greasing it took about 30 minutes. No need to jack suspension up and down to release tension on the arb just disconnect the lower end of the droplinks each side and the bar is under no tension.

When I removed my bushes for greasing it took about 30 minutes. No need to jack suspension up and down to release tension on the arb just disconnect the lower end of the droplinks each side and the bar is under no tension.

Did exactly the same as this when I had my old Octy vRS, easy when you know how.

When I removed my bushes for greasing it took about 30 minutes. No need to jack suspension up and down to release tension on the arb just disconnect the lower end of the droplinks each side and the bar is under no tension.

How easy was it to get was it to get them undone? I was reluctant to try as they a) were in good nick and didn't want to disturb them as I wasn't replacing them and experience of siezed drop links on a Mazda 323 meant they needed heat to remove them. It didn't matter on the 323 because I was replacing them anyway. I didn't want to risk it late on a Sunday afternoon. If they come off easy I'll certainly take your advice next time:thumbup:

How easy was it to get was it to get them undone? I was reluctant to try as they a) were in good nick and didn't want to disturb them as I wasn't replacing them and experience of siezed drop links on a Mazda 323 meant they needed heat to remove them. It didn't matter on the 323 because I was replacing them anyway. I didn't want to risk it late on a Sunday afternoon. If they come off easy I'll certainly take your advice next time:thumbup:

Absolute doddle to undo. They are only held by one nut to the arb. I think it was a 17mm spanner to hold it and 18mm socket to undo the bolt and swing it out of the way.