thats a lot of money lol

think ill wait out on that stuff till i got lots of money. think ill get that stuff and strip the interior out and put it one the doors, roof, floor pan, boot area and around the wheel arhes inside the car to deaden the road noise.

thats one for the list.

cheers

billy

the kit i bought was £80, but obviously only half because i split the cost.

generally second skin seems to be the best value for money, you dont have to get the pro kit, just however much you fancy

if you go on-line to someone like gar audio they tend to be pretty good and cheap-never go to halfords/or independants they will just rip you off!

start with a decent head unit although you can pick these up for cheap money,i got last seasons kenwood 7 series model with 2 pre-outs.4by50 power,full speed i-pod connection with full controls and the cable to adapt and only cost £120 new!bargains out there if you look for em.

up front put in some decent components(im running infinity kappa with passive crossovers)which can be amped if you wish then some oxygen free cable to boost sound quality!You can also pick up a good 10" enclosed sub/amp for around £100 then have the bass you want out back and clarity up front!?

TBH if you're trying to keep cost down then you're best to do it yourself. Getting audio stuff installed professionally is never cheap. If you want something that looks OEM but is a vast improvement then I really recommend the Becker Grand Prix. Looks very plain and boring but has awesome sound quality, built in handsfree and if you buy the iPod adapter very good iPod integration. It's only single din though.

Speaker-wise just a reasonable set of components run off the Becker will be the easiest to sort. Running audio cables through the car is a pain in the **** and best avoided if you're not that fussed about the audio gear. I run the Becker with stock speakers in my Fabia and it's pretty good really.

If you really want a sub then you'll really want a minimum of 4 gauge cable for power and earth, especially if you're wanting an amp that'll run the door speakers and sub. A 4 channel will do the job, front left and right channels to the door speakers, and the rear 2 channels bridged to run the sub. It's not really worth amping the rear speakers, just let them run off the headunit.

If you're wanting a sub, amp and speakers I'd say you're probably looking at around £500-£600 for the lot if you buy reasonable stuff. Say £100 for the fronts, £100 for the sub, £200-£300 for an amp and then all the little bits and pieces like the wiring kit. You could spend less and you could easily spend more but I'd say that around £500 will get you some reasonable kit. Oh, but that's excluding the headunit!

cheers for the info.

been lookin again. not gonna go for the amp and sub.

thinkin of gettin:

Clarion DUZ388RMP

Universal Double DIN Adaptor Brand: Celsus Model: CEL-AFK4073

VW wiring adaptor Brand: Celsus Model: CEL-AIS2136

ISO to DIN Aerial adaptor Brand: Celsus Model: CEL-AAN2100

ISO Active Aerial adaptor Brand: Celsus Model: CEL-AAN2122

Edge Street ED306 6.5"

what do you think?

also do I get another set of components for the rear or can I get some coaxial ones?

car the std rear tweeters be pluged in to them?

also do i need crossovers for the front?

or if I get these

Fusion Encounter CM650 6.5"

they come wi crossovers but what cables do i need to get?

cheers

a lot I know

billy

Clarion HUs are ok, although I'm not aware of that specific model. Never heard of those comps.

If you've decided against an amp and sub, please still go to a local dealer and get it all installed properly WITH sound deadening. Decent installation of a HU and comps will make more difference than which particular gear you have installed.

omg this now looks complicated lol

went to the car audio direct site and it sayin about radio ariel adapters and other bits needed lol.

OMG this it mad

cheers for all the help though

billy

Hey Billy,

If you want a good sound system that isn't too complex & won't cost too much why not get a different head unit, like a pioneer for example. That alone will make a huge difference with the sound quality from your original speaker system. From my experience I've found that makes the Treble and Midi excellent. With more power driving the speakers this allows them to move in and out more rapidly, reducing that farting noise you get when it's too bassy.

Now for Bass, to keep things simple, rather than **** about with matching the correct amp up to the correct head unit, why not buy a sub with an amp intergrated?

You know it works perfectly and all you need to do is hook it up to your head unit.

A good sub takes all the strain that bass takes off your standard speakers, they can handle midi and treble easily, and the sub takes up all the strain of the bass.

You'll have a good sounding system in no time. For the price of a bean.

Doo eet dooo eeet!

omg this now looks complicated lol

went to the car audio direct site and it sayin about radio ariel adapters and other bits needed lol.

OMG this it mad

cheers for all the help though

billy

Hey Billy,

If you want a good sound system that isn't too complex & won't cost too much why not get a different head unit, like a pioneer for example. That alone will make a huge difference with the sound quality from your original speaker system. From my experience I've found that makes the Treble and Midi excellent. With more power driving the speakers this allows them to move in and out more rapidly, reducing that farting noise you get when it's too bassy.

Now for Bass, to keep things simple, rather than **** about with matching the correct amp up to the correct head unit, why not buy a sub with an amp intergrated?

You know it works perfectly and all you need to do is hook it up to your head unit.

A good sub takes all the strain that bass takes off your standard speakers, they can handle midi and treble easily, and the sub takes up all the strain of the bass.

You'll have a good sounding system in no time. For the price of a bean.

Doo eet dooo eeet!

If you're keen to know cost, that's 200 sheets for he head unit and about 90 squid for the sub, much cheaper and probably a huge improvement on the original kit!

cheers, ill look at that lol

billy

Hey Billy,

If you want a good sound system that isn't too complex & won't cost too much why not get a different head unit, like a pioneer for example. That alone will make a huge difference with the sound quality from your original speaker system. From my experience I've found that makes the Treble and Midi excellent. With more power driving the speakers this allows them to move in and out more rapidly, reducing that farting noise you get when it's too bassy.

Now for Bass, to keep things simple, rather than **** about with matching the correct amp up to the correct head unit, why not buy a sub with an amp intergrated?

You know it works perfectly and all you need to do is hook it up to your head unit.

A good sub takes all the strain that bass takes off your standard speakers, they can handle midi and treble easily, and the sub takes up all the strain of the bass.

You'll have a good sounding system in no time. For the price of a bean.

Doo eet dooo eeet!

That does make sense, if that's all you ever intend to do. However, if there's any chance you'll want to upgrade at ANY point in the future, you'd be better off spending your money on good foundations.

I cannot stress enough the importance of decent sound deadening in the doors! It will transform even standard comps and lays the foundation for anything you wanna put in there in the future. The flabby bass and extra vibrations caused by too much LF hitting your mids is horribly excacerbated by the standard door card setup on the Octy. I've you wanna see it for yourself, pry off the grill of one of your mids, then unscrew it and witness the horrible bit of foamy membrane RIGHT BEHIND your mid. Replace the speakers without address that issue is a waste of money.

I currently have 140w a side running into £300 worth of comps in the factory positions. Yes, I have a sub, but even without the sub, the amount of weight you can get through the front doors is substantial. That's because they're properly deadened.

You could still add an integrated sub/amp afterwards, but you really should focus on deadening first. From a labour saving (and therefore money saving) point of view, your best bet would be to get the deadening done and comps put in at the same time. This will mean only stripping the doors once (which takes time and therefore costs).

In an ideal world, I would look at HU, comps and deadening first. Probably cost you a couple hundred quid but will be much more satisfying in the long run. If you're ever down this way (Cornwall) let me know and you're quite welcome to listen to my setup and see how it was all installed. At the moment, I can't drive because of a broken ankle, but I can definitely hobble outside to meet you if you want.....