hello,

I know nothing about car audio as I hve always been satisfied with std stuff.

I am now happy with the cars performance and that so I think it is time to go to the car audio.

I would like to get.

a double din HU like this as i think it looks kind of std.

Car Audio Direct - Clarion DUZ388RMP - Double DIN

I also want to get better speakers and tweeters for the front and just rear speakers as I am gonna have the rear tweeters unpluged.

also want to get a reasonable sub(not too expencive) and subwoofer to go in the boot against the back seats.

what do you recomend and what is needed to plug it all in and make everything work?

do you take the hu output to the amp then to the speakers? or leave the speakerspluged in to the HU and jus plug the amp in to the HU and the plug the sub in to the amp?

billy

just incase you dont know the car i have.

Mk1 Octavia vRS

I dont know were to start.

I put this in the ICE area and no one said anything. so I have moved this to the car part as it is going into a mk1 vRS.

billy

It depends on your budget and if you want to power the front speakers off the HU or amp.

Here's a little basic set up.

HU of your choice must have at least 1 pre out.

Set of components 6 1/2"

Maybe set of rear fill speakers to run off HU.

Sub 10" is punchier or 12" will go down lower.

Power cable including fuse from battery.

Earth cable to good ground point.

RCA's from HU depending on how which HU as to 1 or 2 sets.

Amp either 3/4 channel to run front speakers/sub or 1/2 channel to run just the sub.

Speaker cable from components to amp if used.

Some sound deadening would be useful for the front doors as well.

The above is a basic guide to a good front sound stage bass that doesn't overpower the sound.

If your after power cable/rca's i may have some advertised at weekend.

It depends on your budget and if you want to power the front speakers off the HU or amp.

Here's a little basic set up.

HU of your choice must have at least 1 pre out.

Set of components 6 1/2"

Maybe set of rear fill speakers to run off HU.

Sub 10" is punchier or 12" will go down lower.

Power cable including fuse from battery.

Earth cable to good ground point.

RCA's from HU depending on how which HU as to 1 or 2 sets.

Amp either 3/4 channel to run front speakers/sub or 1/2 channel to run just the sub.

Speaker cable from components to amp if used.

Some sound deadening would be useful for the front doors as well.

The above is a basic guide to a good front sound stage bass that doesn't overpower the sound.

If your after power cable/rca's i may have some advertised at weekend.

dont have a budget really. I am only wantin to have a nice crisp sound that is better and louder than std.

I want to get a small amount of bass too. and get speakers that are better than the std ones too.

whats the RCA?

I would like to keep it as simple as pos. I am wanting to get a HU to fill the std place and the hole underneath. I have seen this JVC one too that looks nice and i think it will go well??????/

JVC KW-XG500 CD Players,MP3 CD Players

what do you suggest i do for sound proofing in the doors? where and how should i fit it?

cheers

billy:thumbup:

RCA = phono cable to send sound from HU to amp.

I will PM you a link to someone who had some kit for sale.

hi i have got a pioneer set up in mind it cost about 600 pound in total i changed the front door speakers a pair of 8 inch 3 ways on the rear shelf 360 watts each 720 watt amp you dont need a sub there is loads of bass in them they am the speakers with the kevlar cones in yellow not sure what the part numbers are but they am very good and i have got a good pioneer head unit to match the front tweeters am up to the job any way

Sound proofing would go on the outer door skin behind where the speaker fits and inner skin around the speaker and would stop unwanted vibrations creating tighter mid bass up front.

cheers.

when I say no budget lol i mean I have not set one as I am lookin, but i dont want to spend too much.

I want to get rid of vibration when vol is up and have a nice bass in there too. the std speakers seem to be a bit distorted when vol is up above 20 and 30 its terrible.

the bass is only usable on +3 and anything more it sounds bad.

cheers for the link

billy

Sound proofing would go on the outer door skin behind where the speaker fits and inner skin around the speaker and would stop unwanted vibrations creating tighter mid bass up front.

what do you use?

Budget at least £100 on a set of components add some sound deadening to the front doors and this will improve things.

After the above it time to add a 3/4 channel amp c/w sub and this will be a nice starting point.

I may have a 12" JBL sub c/w sealed box if you were more local.

what do you use?

I'm a little out of the scene now,as i used to have systems years ago.

Dynamat was always good but i'm sure you can get cheaper products.

Second skin damplifier is good stuff from Car audio direct, I bought the 40sq foot pack, and split it with a friend and that did both my front doors with some bits double layered, and about 1/3 of the boot

I have a pioneer HU, Apline S type speakers in doors, along with an Apline S type crossover unit (in both front doors). Doors have have sound deadening materieral stuck on the inner-face of them.

omg this now looks complicated lol

went to the car audio direct site and it sayin about radio ariel adapters and other bits needed lol.

OMG this it mad

cheers for all the help though

billy

Second skin damplifier is good stuff from Car audio direct, I bought the 40sq foot pack, and split it with a friend and that did both my front doors with some bits double layered, and about 1/3 of the boot

thats a lot of money lol

think ill wait out on that stuff till i got lots of money. think ill get that stuff and strip the interior out and put it one the doors, roof, floor pan, boot area and around the wheel arhes inside the car to deaden the road noise.

thats one for the list.

cheers

billy

omg this now looks complicated lol

went to the car audio direct site and it sayin about radio ariel adapters and other bits needed lol.

OMG this it mad

cheers for all the help though

billy

It IS complicated. TBH, depends how much experience/comfort you have with stripping your car. Personally, I would go to a local installer and get a quote for a HU, front comps, decent amp and deadening. Get it done right and can add a sub later if you want more. If you're used to stock, you'll be amazed what deadened doors and plenty of power will do.

If you want to save money, buy the hardware second hand then give it to the dealer to install. Keep it simple, there's no need to go overboard to begin with.

cheers

sounds like a plan. there is a place in cardiff by the city stadium. cant remember the name now. also think there is a place near RStuning in leeds. ill see when i go up.

I just want it doin right to start with and then its done. I learned the hard way with remaps lol.

So will it be better to get a HU and the door sound deadening stuff done first?

use the std speakers?

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/wishlist.php?pid=5454&action=remove_wishlist&pid=6844

if this link works it is what I am looking at so far.

Depends how far you'd like to go but I noticed a decent difference in sound quality once an Alpine head unit was fitted, much crisper and clearer. As for bass, I've got an Infinity Basslink sub fitted which has an integral amp. Nice, punchy compliment to the speakers in a compact package. Easy on the wallet too

so just the HU will give a nice increase?

I want A HU that looks almost like std, 2 din, min 1 pre out for amp and sub, and can be used with the std changer. also needs to work with the radio antenna.

If I get a HU that has 2 pre outs, one is for the sub and the other is for the front speakers, but do you need one or 2 amps for this?

I mean 1 amp for the sub and 1 for the front speakers? or just one multi channel amp?

again guys thanks for the help and the patience lol

are the speakers in the back 6.5" too?

cheers

sounds like a plan. there is a place in cardiff by the city stadium.

Be careful in there mate,I'm sure they are too good, they never used to be

is that the one near the traffic lights at the railway bridge or the one down toward tool sation?

there is also the one by the ferrari/ porche place under the bridge?

Don't forget your will need a power injector to supply power to the amp in the base of the aerial (as power is currently supplied by the stock Skoda HU). Normally this connects to the blue (iirc) wire (powered aerial) from the ISO block as a source of power and the aerial connects inline between the aerial cable and the back of the new HU.

so just the HU will give a nice increase?

I want A HU that looks almost like std, 2 din, min 1 pre out for amp and sub, and can be used with the std changer. also needs to work with the radio antenna.

If I get a HU that has 2 pre outs, one is for the sub and the other is for the front speakers, but do you need one or 2 amps for this?

I mean 1 amp for the sub and 1 for the front speakers? or just one multi channel amp?

again guys thanks for the help and the patience lol

A HU alone will be noticeable. However, like washing a second hand car for the first time and then noticing the paint defects, it will likely just annoy you by highlighting the limitations of the stock setup.

If you wanna stay cheap, the best money you can spend is a HU, front comps and properly deadened doors and cards. Then you can add amp and sub later if you want. However, this will require a decently powered HU (although, they're all underpowered TBH). If you want decent sound, don't prioritise the look of the HU, or standard changer interface. Why do you want double DIN?

Seriously, how much do you want to spend?