Hi all,

I have a Felicia 1.6slxi. When I start up the car doesn't do the inital automatic raising of the revs to simulate blipping the throttle. It tends to just about start and then chug itself into life as if it's choked up. After about 5secs it springs into life and happily sits there revving at around 1100revs and slowly comes down as it warms up to normal idling speed.

If I start the car quickly, for example to move it off the drive, then turn it off, it is a real pig to start again. But if the car is fully warmed up it will start no problem but will still not do the inital raising of the revs.

Any ideas anyone?

Cheers, Aaron.

£2000 scrappage allowance.

LoL

Not scrapping it just yet. It's too good for that. It's a 1999 and only 66k on the clock.

I did forget to add earlier that for the first 1/2 mile after starting up and driving off straight away that it holds back for a split second when changing gear and re-applying the throttle. After that intial 1/2 mile she doesn't miss a beat. It's just taken me down to Plymouth and back (best part of 600 miles round trip) and was faultness.

Does the temperature guage work properly?

Have things like air filter, plugs etc been changed recently?

Phil

Temp guage works perfectly.

They haven't been done for about 6000 miles so I'm doing it in the next couple of weekends. I did wonder this myself, but it never has done the auto throttle blipping thing on start up.

This might sound bizzare, but check that the throttle cable has a touch of slack when it's closed and engine off.

This might sound bizzare, but check that the throttle cable has a touch of slack when it's closed and engine off.

Agree with that. If I adjust the cable on mine so that it is taught but still touch the idle sensor it runs oddly but if I leave some slack its fine.

Phil

£2000 scrappage allowance.

The challenge is getting together the other £5k or so, lol. If we had £5k to throw away on a car we probably wouldn't be driving cars suitable for scrapping anyway.

Agree with that. If I adjust the cable on mine so that it is taught but still touch the idle sensor it runs oddly but if I leave some slack its fine.

Phil

Funny you should say that. I changed the accelerator cable a few months back because it had a kink in it and was causing the car to suddenly take off once the kink forced it's way into the inner casing. I'll take a look after dinner if the light holds.

Right, just been outside and checked the cable. I moved the circlip up a notch and also took the cable out of the holder, so effectively no cable. It did the same thing both ways and still chugged away until it sorted itself out.

But..... I did notice a whistling/buzzing noise coming from the throttle body with the ignition on and engine not running. When I tapped the black box thing on the side of the throttle body the buzzing noise was interrupted. Sounds like the throttle body isn't able to set itself correctly when cold.

What do you reckon?

Sounds plausible, but really needs data-loggging to prove or disprove.

Went into my local Skoda dealer today. They weren't sure either and suggested diagnostics.

They looked up the throttle body and it was £353,,,,, :eek: It's only £100 from Mr Jorily. Still a lot of money if it isn't that though.

BiGRUD, I have the same model as you but with a lot less miles.They are temperamental. Mine suffered from erratic self revving which eventually went but it's still prone on cold damp days to cut out when coming to a halt. Coasting to a stop before fully warmed up reduces this. Mercifully it restarts first touch of the key. Nobody has found a fault and some good mechanics have checked it out. The car's been fully maintained. No faults show up on the ecu and I've decided to live with it. Although I was excited about the scrappage allowance I'm not over-impressed with the green options out there. The later Felicias were probably not as well tested as they should have been when Volkswagen "improved" them. A plastic wheel arch liner to protect against corrosion would have been a big help. I don't think the Felicia will live to be a classic.Parts and thus repairs are too expensive for a "cheap" motor. The SLXi is a very comfortable car and I do enjoy driving it most of the time.

Hi bazz2004, thanks for the info. I had erratic revving last week. Started up, went round the corner and when I got to the junction the damn car was revving between 2 and 4k revs. I turned off counted to 10, started up again and it hasn't done it since. Very strange.

I was explaining the situation to my brother today. He came out to take a look and when I turned on the ignition it didn't buzz and whistle. I heard the throttle body make a definite click and it started first time....? WTF!!!!

It was mentioned by the garage that there could possibly be a fault in the throttle control unit ( at least I think that's what it was called) which isn't the same thing as the ecu. However changing it was likely to be expensive without any guarantee of success. So long as mine doesn't develop full scale "Paper shop syndrome" where it won't restart for five minutes I've decided to live with its limitations. Having the engine stall and refuse to restart immediately could result in some very nasty situations.

Well I've been trawling the web and haven't found any definite answers. I'm hoping to give the car a once over this weekend or next. Does anyone know from experience that when the ignition is switched on if the throttle body should move the butterfly or the throttle position to try and rev the car? Just want to check things out before I buy a new throttle body.

People have also mention the temperature guage. Although it shows it's working on the dashboard I may just get a new temp sender too. Are these located on the thermostat housing?

Thanks again.

The "throttle control unit" I mentioned in my post isn't the same thing as the throttle body in case I misled you. I think that it's an electronic box which controls the revs. Also not to be confused with the ecu.

The "throttle control unit" I mentioned in my post isn't the same thing as the throttle body in case I misled you. I think that it's an electronic box which controls the revs. Also not to be confused with the ecu.

Oh yes I know. But I've been shopping around and you can't buy it seperately unless anyone else knows otherwise.

Came across this thread from a couple of years ago.

http://briskoda.net/favorit-felicia-fun-forman/felicia-engine-stalls-after-5-minutes/60332/

Gave the car a service on Saturday and she still coughs a splutters into life. So that eliminates the plugs, dizzy cap and air filter. The only thing I couldn't change was the fuel filter. I just couldn't get to the pipe nearest the tank. Do you have to drop the tank?

I checked down the throttle body and when the ignition is turned on it does set it itself to some degree.

The other thing I noticed was the plugs were black. Does this mean it's over fuelling? What could influence this?

Cheers.

With a carburettor you could adjust the idle and mixture settings. The beauty of these electronic injection systems is that it's all done for you. Great if it's right but not good when the system has a mind of its own and keeps moving to a default setting. There's not much doubt that the mixture is too rich.

Good old carburettor's....

The injection systems are a bit of a mystery without the correct gadgets to plug in. Think I may have to take it into a garage for a diagnosis.

The other thing I noticed was the plugs were black. Does this mean it's over fuelling? What could influence this?

Cheers.

Maybe. If they're all a sooty black, that indicates overfuelling, but if 1 to 4 of them are oily black that indicates oil getting into the combustion chamber(s) somehow.

They were sooty black. No oil.

Hi all,

Borrowed my mates brothers Autel VAG MaxScan today. Anyway, just plugged it into my Felly and it came back with:

00525 - 156 01/01

KWP1281

Oxygen Sensor (G39)

Sporadic - short circuit to positive

:confused:

Just looking on the interweb to see what it translates too. Is Lambda sensor barking up the wrong tree?