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Mk1 Octavia vRS rear anti roll bar


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I have just bought the whiteline 22mm rear adjustable anti roll bar for my vrs but not sure on fitting it, according to the haynes it says it a internal part of the rear axle and that the whole thing needs to come out, but the bar I recieved comes with fitting instructions based on the mk4 golf, am I right in thinking it's the same platform and should be the same as the golf

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No need to touch the axle bar or internals as the Whiteline sits on top of it and is clamped to it. Then the sides of the bar are bolted through the rear shock mounts with whiteline brackets. I think Rob has good pics. I fitted mine so if you need help or more info just ask. Took 30 min

Mark.

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did you use axle stands? plus mine look different to the one on his pictures, in the first pic the bar looks like it has different attaching brackets to the one supporting the bar underneath

i.e. not the eye ends the ones on either side at the top to stop the bar sagging under its own weight

Edited by tattoo_stew69
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did you use axle stands? plus mine look different to the one on his pictures, in the first pic the bar looks like it has different attaching brackets to the one supporting the bar underneath

i.e. not the eye ends the ones on either side at the top to stop the bar sagging under its own weight

You won't be able to fit it without getting the car up in the air. I used axle stands I have a few pics so will post a how to later.

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That would be very helpfully cheers mate ;-) looking at getting the omp front upper strutbrace also

will have to look too see if it fits straight on or I will need to get the drill out

Here you go.

Note some pics are from Robs car(i think) Sorry also for the different size and quality of some pics.

Here is what you get in the kit:

whitelineKit.jpg

First get the car on level ground and get it into the air. Get the car on axle stands or ramps. I found placing the axle stands on the rear beam is ok. They should not be in the way when fitting the ARB as there will be some distance the bar sits away from the beam.

You could put the axle stands under the front bracket of the rear wishbone mount, either way this allows you to use a trolley jack to lift the shocks up to allow removal of the shock nut / bolt easier as not under load. (discussed later). Also lot easier if wheels are taken off but not essential.

Give the bottom shock bolts a shot of WD40 to make them easier to remove. them get them out with the aid of a 16mm spanner and socket I put the trolley jack under the shock mounting bracket to lift the unit up slightly to allow me to remove and refit the bolt easier.

whitlineRearshocksupported.jpg

Now fit the arb drop link mounting bracket (the metal box shaped part) using the removed bolts to pass through the bracket and back through the shock mounting. It states in the brief instructions that the drop link bracket has to be kept as vertical as possible after fitting the bolts, so push the box shaped bracket up till it stops on the shock bracket(this should be horizontal when the car is flat on the road. Tigten the bolts.

Picture021-1.jpg

Now fit the arb drop links (the S shaped bar with yellow bushes on it.) I didn’t tighten them fully. Just enough to hold them so when the ARB is fitted you can adjust and tighten.

Picture022-1.jpg

Now you need to assemble the U clamps to the rear beam to hold the ARB in place. As I was doing the job myself I supported the arb on the trolley jack against the axle so that my hands were free to fit the brackets

WhitelineARBsupportedbytrolleyjack.jpg

Whiteline supply all that is needed to fit the bar to the axle there are two ubolts which go around the back of the axle with the threads pointing towards the rear of the vehicle

There are to large metal plates which go over the threads an rest on the axle the

bushes are greased and fitted to the bar and then the bush clamps are fitted to the ubolts and all tightened up evenly 14mm socket

There was no info for spacing so I put the Clamps around 2” inwards from the outside of the beam axle

Picture024-1.jpg

Picture025-1.jpg

Then you need to offer up the ARB to the Drop links. If you have the adjustable bar (4 holes in the bar) then you may wish to fit the bolts through the outer hole first in the bar. The ARB will become stiffer the closer the holes to the beam are used. This is personal choice so you can adjust as per your preference.

Picture028-1.jpg

Make sure all parts are tightened up , refit wheels and lower car to ground.

ARB2.jpg

ARB3.jpg

Then take car for a brisk run and be amazed at how better the car handling feels.

Cheers

Mark.

Edited by Bowders1
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yeah on my kit i dont think i got everything i got the two ubolts and nuts but no bushes and no mounting saddle brackets, looks like i will be giving balance motorsport a call in the morning

:(

29309.attach

Edited by tattoo_stew69
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yeah on my kit i don't think i got everything i got the two ubolts and nuts but no bushes and no mounting saddle brackets, looks like i will be giving balance motorsport a call in the morning

:(

I had a few things missing when mine arrived even though all the small parts where in a factory sealed bag :mad: Whitelines quality control must be pretty slack.

Fair play to Balance though they sorted it pretty much immediately :thumbup:

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Now fit the arb drop link mounting bracket (the metal box shaped part) using the removed bolts to pass through the bracket and back through the shock mounting. It states in the brief instructions that the drop link bracket has to be kept as vertical as possible after fitting the bolts, so push the box shaped bracket up till it stops on the shock bracket(this should be horizontal when the car is flat on the road. Tigten the bolts.

Picture021-1.jpg

Mark.

looking at this bracket ,is it correct? because that is in the weakest orientation possible ,if it was turned through 90 degrees it would be much stronger .Assuming that most of the force transmitted to the suspension arm from the ARB is vertical.

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i can see your point, never really noticed that when i was looking at the pics

good spot ;)

I agree, mine are at 90 deg to the one in the pic, been on for over a year no distortion of the box section at all.

When I fitted mine, as was suggested earlier reversed up onto ramps, then used

2 long nylon tiewraps to hold the bar roughly in position on the beam prior to fitting the u bolts + clamps.

You wont be disappointed with the arb's effect on the car's handling :thumbup:.

Peter

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looking at this bracket ,is it correct? because that is in the weakest orientation possible ,if it was turned through 90 degrees it would be much stronger .Assuming that most of the force transmitted to the suspension arm from the ARB is vertical.

I fitted mine as you describe for exactly that reason. It also means you don't get crud sitting in the tube section :thumbup:

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yeah on my kit i dont think i got everything i got the two ubolts and nuts but no bushes and no mounting saddle brackets, looks like i will be giving balance motorsport a call in the morning

:(

I also angle grinded down the u clamp threads after tightening it all up (not seen in the pic) as I did not like the remaining thread sticking out so far. Left about 10mm on it exposed. I am clumsy and was bound to head butt it when working under the car.

Picture025-1.jpg

P.S good idea about turning the box bracket 90 degrees. will do that next time car is up in the air.

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I also angle grinded down the u clamp threads after tightening it all up (not seen in the pic) as I did not like the remaining thread sticking out so far. Left about 10mm on it exposed.

I hope you put copious amounts of that copper grease on them threads too Mark ;) .

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