Just been reading the back of an old bottle of T-Cut original (think it actually pre-dates all the various special versions you can get now).. anyway...

It reads... and I quote

"Removes oxidation, road film and tar sports from paintwork. Will remove tar spots and dried insects from coach work"

So, sounds like it does near as a damn it the same job as a clay bar.. but which is best? (where's Harry Hill when you need him?)

Will either damage the top coat?

I just used the t-cut on a scratch that's appeared on the bonnet (somethings flown up it at speed or a local kids leant on it with a zip) either way... the paints developed a rough feel since it's last major polish as you'd expect.

The area I just T-Cut is all smooth but the scratch is still there (I realize having had a poke online I need real polish to smooth the damage to the top coat)...

So I guess my closing question is,

Would it be safe to T-Cut the whole car to remove the roughness.. or can I cause holograms and swirls though in experience and the abrasiveness of T-Cut... (Or is it just not abrasive enough to cut away at the clear coat?)... and is it the same as clay barring, or at least trying to do the same thing?

It does recomend thier metalic specific version on the back, I used this non metallic version on a tiny area or Magic black but I'm guessing it's prob too rougth to use all over as it's obviously meant for older non water based paints?

Hmm...

Claying is a better method of removing surface contamination such as tar, tree sap and baked insect guts, as it will not 'bite' into and mar the clearcoat (assuming you are using enough lube ). Precisely because of this, it will do nothing for scratches and swirls.

As you said, to properly remove and correct paint defects such as scratches and swirls, a polish (along the lines of Menzerna, Sonus, 3M etc) is required. Alternatively, fill them with SRP

Nowadays, with the advent of clearcoat, I don't really see a place for T-Cut Original. It was useful in Ye Olde Days, when your Forxhall Corsiesta turned pink in the sunlight. Even for that now though, other polishes are better (and, particualrly with a D/A, won't kill your arms as much!). That said, I imagine it would make a half-decent metal polish, or even a glass polish

So in answer to your question (just noticed I've been rambling!), claying shouldn't damage or reduce your shiny modern topcoat, T-Cut more than likely will.

My 2p I'm way too anal about this stuff for a 19 year old...

Edited 22 July, 200916 yr by Leodhasach
Realised I've been rambling on and on

(just noticed I've been rambling!)

Ramling's good! Makes me understand what you mean more.. and also, I like a juicy answer to read through.

I've just been flicking through a Fiat Forum where two people used original T-Cut and dulled their top coats... now I'm bricking it I've done the same! I didn't notice any hazing when I did it and I've stacked it back up with 4 coats of wax now. If I've done any damage though I understand a polish will fix it??

Thanks for the reply...

Anyone else got any 2p's to throw in?

Ramling's good! Makes me understand what you mean more.. and also, I like a juicy answer to read through.

I've just been flicking through a Fiat Forum where two people used original T-Cut and dulled their top coats... now I'm bricking it I've done the same! I didn't notice any hazing when I did it and I've stacked it back up with 4 coats of wax now. If I've done any damage though I understand a polish will fix it??

Thanks for the reply...

Anyone else got any 2p's to throw in?

No worries

Any damage you have inflicted shouldn't exactly be serious, I imagine machine polishing (correctly! Awful lot of newbie horror stories around) with a pretty fine-graded polish and pad would sort you out.

If need be I'd happily give it a going over drive up to Ullapool, stick it on the ferry and all will be well...

I'm doing my dad's black magic Polo over the next couple of days...with all sorts of marks to contend with :rotz:

I imagine machine polishing (correctly! Awful lot of newbie horror stories around)

Yup! My car was one of my mechanics first "correction jobs" looked great till the sun came out.... I've never seen so many Holograms!

He did fix it though, and now he's learnt the lesson to put it in his own words "It's a learning curve"

One thing that bugs me though, is... does a machine polish remove a bit of paint? And if so, having now had 2 that I know of... is a 3rd or 4th going to start making the paint perilously thin and also easier to damage!

Sooooo many questions! :confused:

Yup! My car was one of my mechanics first "correction jobs" looked great till the sun came out.... I've never seen so many Holograms!

He did fix it though, and now he's learnt the lesson to put it in his own words "It's a learning curve"

One thing that bugs me though, is... does a machine polish remove a bit of paint? And if so, having now had 2 that I know of... is a 3rd or 4th going to start making the paint perilously thin and also easier to damage!

Sooooo many questions! :confused:

Simple answer, is, yes it does. There are many variables such as the polish used, pad used, machine speed, pressure on the pad, working speed, you get my drift...it can seem like an absolute minefield. It did when I first started anyway!

Many folk recommend getting, or at least borrowing, a paint thickness gauge (PTG), but even these aren't infallible, as there as different layers in the paint system.

Have a look on Detailing World, and in particular the machine polishing guides by a bloke called Dave KG. Even if you don't plan on carrying out the work yourself (there is enough information to, it's what encouraged me to get stuck in), the theory in these guides will teach you a lot. He seems to be some sort of detailing Yoda. As is Baker21 on here

The way I look after my own and my family's cars is a big correction detail once, which includes good use of LSP (Last Stage Protection, i.e. sealants and waxes), followed by a good safe wash regime and top-up protection. That way seems to minimise the amount of further correction work needed

Head spinning yet?

Ramling's good! Makes me understand what you mean more.. and also, I like a juicy answer to read through.

I've just been flicking through a Fiat Forum where two people used original T-Cut and dulled their top coats... now I'm bricking it I've done the same! I didn't notice any hazing when I did it and I've stacked it back up with 4 coats of wax now. If I've done any damage though I understand a polish will fix it??

Thanks for the reply...

Anyone else got any 2p's to throw in?

if it dulled the top coat the dimishing abrasives in the polish have not been broken down properly, and that would explain the holograms too. basically polish has to be worked in untill the abrasives have broken down to a point where they are no longer cutting, but refining the finish. t-cut is well known for being harsh and not a polish that will refinish a paint on its own, it needs another polish to finish it. something less agressive. in my own opinion the best polish to use by hand especially for newbies (much like myself) is autoglym super resin polish, and a good match up with the wax would be autoglym's extra gloss protection. in my experience (i know its not much but still) it gives a really good finish, although you will acheive very little correction by hand if any at all which is where a D.A or Rotary machine polisher comes in.

i also hear that any more than 3 layers of wax is waste, as when you come to around the 4th layer you are no longer adding any, but taking off the previous layer and ruining the appearance that 2 coats or 3 coats would give.

theres another 2p

i should of read the rest of the replies seems the topic was allready covered :P

if it dulled the top coat the dimishing abrasives in the polish have not been broken down properly, and that would explain the holograms too. basically polish has to be worked in untill the abrasives have broken down to a point where they are no longer cutting, but refining the finish. t-cut is well known for being harsh and not a polish that will refinish a paint on its own, it needs another polish to finish it. something less agressive. in my own opinion the best polish to use by hand especially for newbies (much like myself) is autoglym super resin polish, and a good match up with the wax would be autoglym's extra gloss protection. in my experience (i know its not much but still) it gives a really good finish, although you will acheive very little correction by hand if any at all which is where a D.A or Rotary machine polisher comes in.

theres another 2p

Working the polish sufficiently can't be emphasised enough. I didn't do this (on my P&J) and a couple fo years later I've got quite a few dull spots that are going to need sorting out...

Working the polish sufficiently can't be emphasised enough. I didn't do this (on my P&J) and a couple fo years later I've got quite a few dull spots that are going to need sorting out...

That's why properly machine polishing my dad's badly-swirled Black Magic Polo took two straight days this week, 8am till 10pm, with another day for waxes, interior etc.

Worth it, it looks like a different car altogether now, but I'm still sore