I've just ordered a FL VRS to replace my current 06reg VRS and this time am looking to make some modifications.

First up will be a Bluefin re-map as I like the idea of being able to revert to standard when needed, (service etc). Plus the price is good. Does any one know if the bluefin resets the 'flash' count on the ecu (if there is one)?

I had an AMD custom map fitted to my current car which on their 'enthusiastic' rollers gave me 248bhp and 280lbs, however eighteen months later due to filling the car with some crappy low grade fuel in a small village when in Wales, (no choice ), resulted in an engine check light which the dealer cleared by re-flashing my ECU and the remap was lost. :( I miss the extra performance but will now wait till my next car.

Next up I'm lookiing to fit either WALK or uprated ARB's. Cash flow means I can't do both at once and there may be quite a gap between fitting. So which do I do first? I know the ARBs will have a bigger impact on handling but one of the annoyances with the 2.0TFSI cars is putting the power down in the corners or roundabouts in the lower gears, especially after a remap and nightmare in the wet, (even with better tyres fitted). I've done a trackday in my current VRS and thought the handling was ok, again just traction issues putting down the power exiting corners. Will ARB's help with putting the power down in corners or should I go WALK first then ARB's?

As for ARB's which ones? Eibach or whitelines? I like the fact the whitelines are adjustable. The Eibach has a much thicker Front, 26mm, as apposed to the whitelines 24mm, but then the whitelines has a thicker rear, 24mm as apposed to Eibachs 23mm. I guess ideally I'm just after a neutral handling car as I'll be worried everytime the wife drives it if I shift it too much towards oversteer.

Other mods to make are the audi TT/S3 shortshift which I've just ordered and an ECS dogbone.

Finally the Bluefin remap. According to their site to go to stage 2, I only need to change to a High flow cat? If thats just the case what are my options and costs?

Thanks in advance

Do a search mate - Bahnstormer's posted loads of stuff on ARBs...

Bahnstormer has lots of info on fitting a rear ARB but not on front ARBs or whether to fit WALK first. I guess I'm also looking for feed back from Eibach ARB users in terms of handling and traction.

rsbspt... just noticed your sig has WALK. Did it make a big difference to traction / putting down power in corners when you had it fitted?

Sorry for jumping in, I did have it and yes it did make a huge difference. Besides it stiffened the front and a front ARB/bushes was not required.

To my tastes a RARB Whiteline at medium setting was perfect.

HTH,

rsbspt... just noticed your sig has WALK. Did it make a big difference to traction / putting down power in corners when you had it fitted?

In corners, definitely. On pulling away from rest (with vigour) an improvement, yes, but did not eliminate axle tramp entirely, esp when damp.

Hoep that helps.

1st question-bluefin handsets do reset the flash counter now. also you only need the DP and CAT for the stage 2 bluefin. it'll cost you £50 pound to download but makes a huge difference. there a few manufacturers, miltek, blueflame, piper, pipewerx. some dont show it on their website but a phone them and they will give you the details. aim off for £450-£600 for DP and Cat

2nd question. ARBs.

eibach ARBS are adjustable front and rear and also very good. I havent driven an octavia with just the rear bar but mine has both and it corners extremely well. i think a rear ARB coupled with WALK will give similar results. im going for the two bars and walk for further cornering grip.

My car performed great around the nurburgring with the arbs, massively better than before. Cant comment on the WALK as it isnt fitted yet, however i havent read a bad review on it yet, and it is very neutral to drive. you have to really be on the limits or cornering for liftoff oversteer

A point of interest on that. by fitting the WALK at the same time as the front ARB you will save your self a fair amount of money on labour, and only pay for realignment once.

the rear bar is a 20-30 min job so cheap.

Edited 29 July, 200916 yr by simonskerton

Thanks for the replies. Did not realise I would also need a re-alignment when fitting ARBS, so may try and get both done together, funds permitting. If not, I think I'll do WALK first.

Has anyone had issues with WALK and insurance? Also does anyone know if this will void my warranty, or just maybe the warranty on steering / suspension components? Not sure what Skoda will be like with mods. (The bluefin remap I can easily remove if need be, the WALK would be a bit more tricky)

Good new on the Bluefin Stage 2, I did not really want to have to go for a full exhaust or induction kit if I could help it. (Well for now anyway )

the rear anti roll bar doesnt need anything re-aligned. however when doing the WALK or the strut and steering rack will be disconnected therefore requiring re-alignment, same with the front anti roll bar, the whole subframe is dropped to swap the bars.

If I had the decision again, the way i would do it i would purchase the front+rear ARBs but just fit the Rear ARB for the time beginning. It wil make a huge difference on its own.

then id save up the cash for WALK and have it fitted at the same time as the front ARB. The sit back and enjoy.

this is the reason i have not fitted my WALK yet. I have TT lower arms to go on, and im saving up for poly bushes all around, I wont get any fitted yet until I have all the parts ready so that i can get a discount on fitment and only shell out for re-alignment once.

although it isnt needed for stage 2 the induction kit will help with the bluefin massively.

think about it this way, a bigger DP with less restrictive CAT will get rid of exhaust gases quicker, but will need more air to supply the turbo at the same rate as its expelling the gases.

keep an eye out in the for sale section for second hand intakes, thats what i did for my exhaust and intake.

alternatevely you wil most defiantely require an uprated panel filter at stage 2. Only about 35 pound

Thanks Simon. Will probably go for a panel filter only, ideally want to keep the car looking standardish and an intake means not using the engine cover or putting a saw to it to make it fit. Stage 2 at approx 260hp and 260lbs is as far as I'd want to go, (its supposed to be my company car LOL). So will eventually just go panelfilter, DP and race cat, (Pipewerx probably as its about £100 cheaper than the other options). Do you know if the car will run ok with the standard map but with a 3"DP and sports cat fitted? Just thinking when I get the car serviced I may switch to standard map. Also Simon I noticed in one of your old posts after you had stage 2 you suffered a possible fuel cut around 3 - 4krpm which cleared when you fitted a new DV. Has it now gone completely? I am not planning on going the uprated fuel pump route as not looking for more power than stage 2.

it seems to have dissapeared now. guess it was the ECU adapting to the new settings.

the difference with the pipewerx DP to the others is size. pipe werx is 3" the others are 2.75" i beleive. sounds well meaty as well. i have had a lot of good remarks about the sound, and thats with a std back box.

it wont work ok with the DP and sports CAT with std map though, i think it will set off all the engine lights as the lamda readings will all be wrong,. thats why you stage 2 map as it uses the exhuast as efficiently as p[ossible and cancels out the ECL if they flash up

If I had the decision again, the way i would do it i would purchase the front+rear ARBs but just fit the Rear ARB for the time beginning. It wil make a huge difference on its own.

then id save up the cash for WALK and have it fitted at the same time as the front ARB. The sit back and enjoy.

Good thinking - will follow your advice!