Decision made - mine is coming out.

I scanned my car a couple of weeks ago and it's logging the following:

16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected

P0411 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Which is an excuse for removal Especially as I plan to de-cat.

All it does is inject extra air when the engine is cold to make the cat more efficient for the first 60-90 seconds of running.

Mine's been getting noisy which is a common fault apparently. The rivets holding together the two halves of the pump are prone to failure.

This is a pic of mine:

You can see only one of the three visible rivets has a head.

Removal saves about 3kg in weight

-Blank off hole in filter box (Not applicable as I have a CAI)

-Blank off hole on cylinder head (with forge plate), after removing the combination valve

-Remove secondary air pump, 2 long black plastic hoses & engine mount bracket

-Remove N112 from the vacuum system, which controls the combination valve

-Add resistors to foll the ECU into thinking the electronic bits still exist

-Remove the relay from the relay box in the engine bay

-Job done

Guide:- Removing Secondary Air Injection - SEAT Cupra.net - SEAT Forum

| Passives | Resistors, Potentiometers or Control Knobs | Resistors, Fixed Discrete | Aluminium Housed, Wirewound -10 to 600W |HS10 330R J

Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

Will take pics as always when I do this!

And the added benefit of not sounding like your drying your hair in the car in the morning

Watching this with interest Rob.

How many of those resistors do you need, And be interested in pics when done.

Edited 10 September, 200916 yr by DGW
No need to quote original post.

You need three resistors apparently - they need to be connected between the wires that feed the pump and a couple of other bits -

To keep the ECU happy, and stop the engine light been a permanent fixture on your dash you will need to fit a 330 ohm resistor into the plugs on everything that has been removed.

Nice one Rob. I've done lots of reading on this too, so I'm keen to see how you get on. It's something I've always planned on doing, but never got motivated to get on and do it!

I've heard some people remove the pump and un-plumb the N112 (but leave it wired in), and get no error codes about the pump. But that's just rumours!

The only minor drawback of this is getting the CEL (I guess saying "where's the frikkin pump dude"), and like you say, that can be sorted with a resistor.

I've always hoped that someone like ECS would come out with a wiring loom plug, that fitted the loom connectors perfectly and just contained some resistors or something to replicate the motor/valve that was there. That would be a lovely solution, but I've never seen such a thing. Maybe we could make some from old connectors. Wire the correct resistor in, and get the plug potted so it's sealed.....

Changing the oil is going to be so much easier without that takky pump in the way!

Keep us posted Rob:thumbup:

Likewise, also very interested in this

Likewise, also very interested in this

Done this yet Rob....:rotz:

Patience!

I had the Forge blanking plate sent to my parents' address so I can collect it next week when I'm in the UK. Will get it done in about 3-4 weeks

Patience!

I had the Forge blanking plate sent to my parents' address so I can collect it next week when I'm in the UK. Will get it done in about 3-4 weeks

Off to lovely Bridlington then?!

no we won't get a chance :( Meeting up with my parents in York I think! We're only on the ground for 6 days!!

Take it your not bringing the car.

Rob what are you taking back with you?

Back to NZ? Not a lot - some bonnet lifters and some Rover bits for a friend.

no we won't get a chance :( Meeting up with my parents in York I think! We're only on the ground for 6 days!!

York's not so bad... all the people who live in York are nice

That's a pretty small amount of time for all that travelling

York's not so bad... all the people who live in York are nice

That's a pretty small amount of time for all that travelling

Tell me about it! It's the only way we could do it to get to a good mate's wedding and fit it in the NZ school hols (SWMBO is a teacher)

Just finished doing this Details and pics later.

Well done, how did the job go.

Just finished doing this Details and pics later.

Awesome! Look forward to reading about it.

Will do a proper write up - but this is what I removed:

and replaced with this:

Of course it took four times longer than it should have and I have various cuts and bruises. And I somehow managed to break my catch can in the process :( I didn't really go near that so maybe I have a faulty one and wiggling one of the pipes caused this:

Oh yes and I still have a bracket to remove - but I need to buy a set of allen key attachments for my socket set to get the top bolt out.

"doh", hate it when that kind of thing happens. Have you managed to test the car for the ECU check light yet.

Shame about the catch can mate. Still not fitted mine! The wall thickness is very thin! Hopefully you'll get a new one on warranty.

What did you do with the N112 then? Guess I'll have to wait and see.....

"doh", hate it when that kind of thing happens. Have you managed to test the car for the ECU check light yet.

I went for a drive - long enough to warm up fully, and I drove to work today and no lights on the dash yet! Fingers crossed.

Haven't run a VAGCOM scan yet

Shame about the catch can mate. Still not fitted mine! The wall thickness is very thin! Hopefully you'll get a new one on warranty.

Hope so - I've sent them an email so we'll see.

What did you do with the N112 then? Guess I'll have to wait and see.....

Haven't touched it - yet!

Would it not be possible for a custom tuner like say RS Tuning to adjust the parameters in the ecu to account for the removal of the secondary fan to save fiting resistors etc and messing with the N112 ????? just a thought Rob ....because you have planted a seed now mate lol

Initial write up:

Pimp My Skoda!

Great write up there Rob. Well done.....