That's the spirit No point worrying about the darn thing, if it goes bang it goes bang, and will cost to get it fixed. Too many owners worry about things that might last for ages. No consolation to those that have had a turbo let go, but then that's life.

Yep this is my train of thought I've given up worrying about it, my vRS has done 76k and had noticed alot of posts on here of turbo failure which got me thinking about it all. Touch wood my vRS is running spot on at the minute and for the last 4k miles I have had my EGR bypass pipe and Elephant hose mod fitted which should help keep things clean:) I was just wondering why turbo failure seems so variable, some go at 13k and others at 70k or so? Is it a manufacturing defect, poor service intervals or just driven too hard? Last month mine successfully survived another 15 laps of the ring , so at present I have quite alot of faith in it, maybe thats why if I've thrashed the nuts off it???

Would a sticking VNT cause the engine not to run? There was no smoke or oil traces out of the exhaust, or under the car itself for that matter. Im still waiting for the car to be returned home, its probably still in Adenau at the garage knowing my luck.

No, sticking VNT will simply put car into limp mode. Failure to start after a turbo incident, usually means either severe oil leak, or turbo shaft has broken.

Am I the only one who hasn't had a turbo failure!? It seems like a daily occurence at the moment! :(

Touching my wooden desk as I speak...

I was just wondering why turbo failure seems so variable, some go at 13k and others at 70k or so? Is it a manufacturing defect, poor service intervals or just driven too hard? Last month mine successfully survived another 15 laps of the ring , so at present I have quite alot of faith in it, maybe thats why if I've thrashed the nuts off it???

So many variables. Service schedule, quality of oil used, possible manufacture defect, incorrect driving style (too much low torque cruising.)

EGR bypass increases engine combustion temperatures, so should increase EGT a bit, which will burn off soot more efficiently. Thankfully the EGR is after the turbo, so the actual soot from EGR for those who keep it, only coats the inlet manifold and not the turbo itself.

I've got the BLT engine, which uses a different EGR with separate anti shudder shut off valve. It's more like a throttle body and the ASV will stop a runaway. All I need for EGR delete is a golf tee to blank off the vacumm hose, and a map out of EGR

Oil and filter change every 5000 miles would be my route...

That's good to know as I already do this, with a new air filter every 10k.

No, sticking VNT will simply put car into limp mode. Failure to start after a turbo incident, usually means either severe oil leak, or turbo shaft has broken.

My PD105 continued to run after the exhaust turbine seperated from the shaft, which then came to rest in the catalytic convertor!

How much did people pay for their replacement turbos? (standard pd130 jobbie)

and btw, he ended up getting about 20-25% off, so whole lot came in at about £1500

Mine is just about to hit 90k, no problems whatsoever. booked in for a remap on Sat. If it goes it goes.

Sorry to hear about the turbo going antnee.

Ive been quoted £750 for a brand new pd150 turbo which im going to fit instead of the original turbo, and my mechanic said the labour to fit (and do a check on the intercooler/pipework etc to make sure everythings ok) for £200.

Am I the only one who hasn't had a turbo failure!? It seems like a daily occurence at the moment! :(

Touching my wooden desk as I speak...

Mines done its second one in less than 10K, car not even done 60K yet............

Ive been quoted £750 for a brand new pd150 turbo which im going to fit instead of the original turbo, and my mechanic said the labour to fit (and do a check on the intercooler/pipework etc to make sure everythings ok) for £200.

that's only like £100 less than a hybrid PD150 from C R Turbo :eek:

I need to do a bit more shopping around tbh. A hybrid may only be £100 more, but its all the other things that need to go with it that makes the whole job alot more expensive. I just want a reliable car at the end of the day, im not after massive hikes in power. If I wanted that I would go and buy a car designed to have 200bhp+. Therefore as far as I have read PD150 turbo should be more reliable than the standard fit item - I hope!!

The car returns!.....to the garage anyway.

My mechanic had a quick look at the car before he went home this evening, and said there was massive crankcase pressure and the car wouldnt run, however when he removed the turbo pipe (that runs up the left hand side of the engine), the car ran reasonably well. He said that at this stage (as he has not yet done a full diagnostic check on it) that either;

A. The exhaust is blocked in some way (hes had melted CAT's before but usually on petrol engines)

B. Something in the turbo is causing a blockage.

Would a blown turbo really cause the exhuast fumes to be getting sucked into the engines inlet, rather than flowing out of the exhaust?!

Any ideas anyone?!

Sorry can't answer the previous post but talking of standard turbos...

My old man had an '04 VW Passat 1.9TDI PD130 (So i assume same engine as a vrs!) which by the time he sold it had done 125,000 miles, and he was still on original turbo so just shows how long they can last i guess?

Spoken to Turbo Technics this afternoon, and mentioned fitting a PD150 turbo to my vRS. The problem now is there are apparently 3 different part numbers for the PD150 Golf, so doesnt know exactly what turbo is the right one.

Does anyone have the correct part number of a turbo that they have fitted? This is becoming a nightmare at the moment!!

EDIT

Finally managed to get a part number which is the correct turbo for fitting - 721021-5006S.

Can anyone confirm that fitting this turbo isnt going to make my car go boom?! I think its the right choice to fit one of these as a replacement, I just dont want further problems down the line e.g. popping boost hoses etc!

Edited 24 September, 200916 yr by sleithykeithy

Just a little update - Had conformation this afternoon that the Turbo has definately failed on the inlet side, 3 cracks on the impellor and the shaft is knackered too!

Si.

Hopefully any bits got caught in the inter-cooler.

Hopefully! Theres no way of knowing if they have got through though is there? Until something else breaks of course! Seemed as though most of it was still intact it was just seized up.

Everythings being stripped and washed out.

Then time for the Elephant hose mod, to keep all the nice new things, nice and clean!

It's unusual for intake side bits to get past the inter-cooler.Sometimes the inter-cooler gets wrecked, but the engine survives. Worst damage is usually from hydraulic oil lock, when oil from the turbo gets forced into the engine. Sometimes the engine just runs away and explodes, or if it can't burn the oil, the conrods bend.

Your not inspiring me with confidence here! The engine ran with the intercooler pipe disconnected before everything was taken apart. Engine seemed to be running as it should, not rough - nice and smooth.

Your not inspiring me with confidence here! The engine ran with the intercooler pipe disconnected before everything was taken apart. Engine seemed to be running as it should, not rough - nice and smooth.

You will be fine mate. If it was hydraulic locked, it wouldn't have run at all, even with the IC pipe off. Sounds like the damage was contained within the turbo

If it's fooked I will buy you a beer.

Haha ok, I can go to bed with a clear head now - sort of, just to await the bill!